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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 03-09-2005, 07:42 AM   #11791
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Quote:
What's your method of centering and laying the servo flat on a 12l4?
i just did this on my l4

got a tc3 servo mount, attached it to the drivers side of the servo, put servo tape on the servo and bolted the tc3 servo mount on.

to me it looks pretty dam centered, the first time i did it, i wasnt looking as i tighted the screw and i had twisted the servo. if i wasnt at work id take a pic for you
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Old 03-09-2005, 08:09 AM   #11792
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Quote:
Originally posted by revzalot
What's your method of centering and laying the servo flat on a 12l4?
Step 1.-draw a line down the center of the chassis.

2. Cut ear off right side of servo and also possibly dremel or cut into the right rear corner of the suspension arm.

3. Lay the servo on the chassis without any tape or glue till you are happy the splined shaft it is centered in the car over the line.

4.using a sharpie-draw a line all the way around the servo.

5. Now servo tape the center of the servo and a thin bead of shoo goo or Zap-gap around the servo tape .

6. VERY carefully place the servo back down inside your marks. Do not try and wipe up excess shoo goo.

7. Let dry for several hours or overnight if possiblelightly clamp it if you can and check back on car every so often and make sure nothing has shifted.

8. Using a TC3 servo mount, transfer the hole location ot the chassis and dril and countersink it. TIP-Better to drill hole too far back and too far outside than too close or too far forward to the servo ear-understand?

9. mount the servo mount and done.
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Old 03-09-2005, 10:47 AM   #11793
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Default Servo Question

My good ol' trusty Futaba 132s hi-speed servo had to be retired this past weekend, due to a board in the way.
So what would be a good mid level and mid level priced replacement steering servo for a 12L3.

Thanks.
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Old 03-09-2005, 10:51 AM   #11794
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jr3550 -I think they are not much more than $70? Maybe even less. CHeck around and find a good price.
One tip on the JR3550 though-dont overitghten the servo horn on it or it will not center. It has a plastic output gear.
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Old 03-09-2005, 10:54 AM   #11795
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Futaba 9650 is a pretty good servo for around $60
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Old 03-09-2005, 10:59 AM   #11796
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What front ends are you guys running on the 12L4, anyone running the "old school"? If so how does it compare to the new? I'm going to build another car soon and thought about putting the old school on it.

Thanks in advance!
Kevin

Last edited by wannabee; 03-09-2005 at 11:07 AM.
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Old 03-09-2005, 11:06 AM   #11797
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who makes a car stand for 12th scales? what do u guys use?
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Old 03-09-2005, 11:15 AM   #11798
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Quote:
Originally posted by dakrat
who makes a car stand for 12th scales? what do u guys use?
I used to use a Novak esc box, but it drove my team mate nuts (he says it just doesn't look professional). He got me a Trinity foam 1/12th car stand and it works really well.
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Old 03-09-2005, 11:17 AM   #11799
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Quote:
Originally posted by dakrat
who makes a car stand for 12th scales? what do u guys use?
I found some old black rubber keyboard pads. The kind you rest the heels of your hand on. Cut them out to shape of your chassis.
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Old 03-09-2005, 11:24 AM   #11800
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i use my integy equalizer box, althought i like the esc box idea better
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Old 03-09-2005, 12:19 PM   #11801
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Default Re: Servo Question

Quote:
Originally posted by Toxic Racing
My good ol' trusty Futaba 132s hi-speed servo had to be retired this past weekend, due to a board in the way.
So what would be a good mid level and mid level priced replacement steering servo for a 12L3.

Thanks.
Futaba S9602. Fast and inexpensive at around $50.00.
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Old 03-09-2005, 12:50 PM   #11802
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Thanks primus and ray for the info servo center info. As for the car stand. I found an old computer heat sink fan and battery cut out foams from a battery storage case. I started shoo gooing the foams around the fan. I then added a tamiya plug to run the fan off a stick pack. I now have a cooling stand and it works pretty good. The only annoying part is the smell of the shoo goo. You may want to use CA glue but don't know how well the foam will stick.
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Old 03-09-2005, 12:54 PM   #11803
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I use the foam Losi Mini T stand and for $5 ya cant beat it
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Old 03-09-2005, 01:16 PM   #11804
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I'm using A car stand with A 7.2V fan in it.
You can rotate it, it has A foam part on it and at the same time it's A cooling stand.
It also has 4 shockholders, if you wan't to replace the fluids
And underneath it has some small buckets were you can put your screws, nuts, etc...

This one is from Integy (don't know if the fan is included), the one I have looks the same,
but is transparent blue and from an unknown company:
http://www.speedtechrc.com/store/ebp...id=386&id=1089
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Old 03-09-2005, 01:22 PM   #11805
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Quote:
Originally posted by wannabee
What front ends are you guys running on the 12L4, anyone running the "old school"? If so how does it compare to the new? I'm going to build another car soon and thought about putting the old school on it.

Thanks in advance!
Kevin
Man-I wish I could help you there. I think you'll miss the re-active caster feel-but at times-the old skool front end was the "hot-ticket". CRC, 12l3, Speedmerchant, t-bar and link cars alike all had them on late 2003 and early 2004. Now all I see is the new suspension on cars. Dont know what that means really.
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