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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!


BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)


Enneti (Xceed)

As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.


If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick

  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020

  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


Reflex Racing/RSD:


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Old 03-08-2005, 08:23 PM   #11776
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Originally posted by JRX-S Bill

This week at Stockton, I gotta look at your car and batteries.

You guys are a few laps behind us; so, you should have lots of battery left.

I will be showing up with a completely rebuilt 12L4 for the California Carpet Championships. May even get the O'D wiring routing done.

I wish I can make it this weekend but I have other things to attend to. Good luck to you and CE and whip some butt.
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Old 03-08-2005, 08:33 PM   #11777
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Originally posted by Drew_Cat
Hi john ,what are you using to test amp draw and @ what volts?

Oh yea I should have mentioned that. I use an old Tekin dyno. One setting on it let's you read amp draw. It only goes to 5 volts. No matter what you use, it's just a learning curve to figure how to tune the motor to make it work for you.
I haven't played with stock motors to much yet but the one I did play with I got to draw 9 amps and it was a rocket on the track and would leave me with about 400 mah after a 8 minute run.
Probably not a very scientific way of tuning motors, but something I've heard people talk about and thought I would try. So far it's proven to be great for 8 minute 12th scale races.

I think some of the inexpensive machines available now would probably work great.

take care
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Old 03-08-2005, 09:01 PM   #11778
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You guys notice the front end cross brace tweaks the front end. I just took a straight edge to the front of the chassis and it was bowing. Took the front end off and it straightened right out...
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Old 03-08-2005, 09:03 PM   #11779
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Originally posted by TreyDog
You guys notice the front end cross brace tweaks the front end. I just took a straight edge to the front of the chassis and it was bowing. Took the front end off and it straightened right out...
Open the holes up a little if you have not done so. If it still bows the chassis dont run it. Some of them are fine and others are bad its like hit or miss if they will bind or bow the chassis.
2013 USVTA World Champion of the World
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Old 03-08-2005, 09:34 PM   #11780
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I prolly just run without it. Either that or buy a few and hope one fits well... Drilling out the holes seems like it would be the same as not running one at all.
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Old 03-08-2005, 10:40 PM   #11781
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Does anyone have a part # for the replacment ball cups on the CRC rear tubes?


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Old 03-08-2005, 10:49 PM   #11782
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Originally posted by TheTurtleMan
Does anyone have a part # for the replacment ball cups on the CRC rear tubes?
If you mean the ball cups on the damper tubes, they are just standard Du-Bro 2/56 ball cups, available at any airplane hardware supplier.
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Old 03-08-2005, 10:52 PM   #11783
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Hey all - we're moving from open mod to 19T fixed endbell (trying to make the class a bit more approachable. . .but still fast)

I've been using ppl/green on SoCal's high-grip asphalt setup and that's worked very well (pink and grey rears work very well too).

I tried Magenta/Aqua last week and, early in the day it worked very very well - REALLY hooked up. However, as the day progressed and the traction came up then it became hard to get through turns. . .I went back to Ppl/Green and the car was a lot smoother.

So - my question is this - for 19T, would Magenta/Green work? How about sticking with Ppl/Greens? Am I way off?


This is quickly becoming my favorite class of racing!
RC10L2.5W - RC12.4 - RCNTC3(bmi) - TC4 (modded) - B44.2 - plus rent-a-rides! :D
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Old 03-08-2005, 10:55 PM   #11784
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Hi Boomer,

You could try pinks and purples or pinks and dble pinks, green wear down really fast, pinks will last longer but are more expensive. Using purples on the front with pinks may not give you enough steering.

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Old 03-09-2005, 01:49 AM   #11785
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Originally posted by nmt6789
Though I've posted this many times, I still cant figure out whats wrong with the diff in my L4..... I've tried just about everything and the people at my track shake their heads because they have never seen anything like it.... Heres the problem.........

Has anybody ever had this type of problem?
A guy here had mystery diff problems like that for 2 or 3 meetings. Turned out the wheels he was using (TRC) were gripping the bevel washer because the hole through the centre wasn't large enough. Changed to Calandra wheels and everything worked perfectly.
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Old 03-09-2005, 04:32 AM   #11786
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I had this problem twice... both times the hubs were machined wrong. The bearing on the inside of the hub and the bearing the spur gear rides on would rub before the diff balls would have pressure from the diff. rings... the diff would be smooth, but the spur gear slipped..
**Team Scream**Parma/PSE**TQ Wire**Roche**Pemberton**BSR**Graupner/GM**SXT**
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Old 03-09-2005, 04:41 AM   #11787
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Yup Larry your diff is a mystery to me. I run the same diff as you (RC12L4) and i have not had a single problem yet with it. I barley have to rebuild it. And i know you have asked everyone at the track, lol because we all just dont know.
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Old 03-09-2005, 05:20 AM   #11788
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Default Tires

Anyone know a good starting point for Foam Tires smooth recently laid asphalt.
Trex 450
Trex 600
EFL Heli's
Futaba 8fg
Align 3gx
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Old 03-09-2005, 05:48 AM   #11789
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What's your method of centering and laying the servo flat on a 12l4?
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Old 03-09-2005, 05:48 AM   #11790
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if anyone is looking for a good 12th scale I am selling my 12L3. Shoot me a pm if interested.
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