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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 03-05-2005, 06:57 PM   #11686
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Thanks.........!!!!!!
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Old 03-05-2005, 08:29 PM   #11687
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Quote:
Originally posted by odpurple
I used to work at the Avalon
Holy moly! Family Dog? Got any posters?
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Old 03-05-2005, 09:40 PM   #11688
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Quote:
Originally posted by vtl1180ny
I'll weigh the whole setup before I install it in the car and let you know....
thanks!
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Old 03-06-2005, 11:45 AM   #11689
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Quote:
Originally posted by Tekin
Because they want to make A profit.
LRP sells A special kit with 2 caps and A heatsink for $25,--, that's WAAAAAAAAAAY overpriced!
You shouldn't buy that, and if you buy it at your local electronics shop you will also have A better quality most of the time.
A regular capacitor will probably overheat your ESC. The capacitor LRP (and Novak) sell is a special high speed one. That's why it's that expensive. A regular capacitor is designed to work at 50 to 60 Hz, not several KiloHz to MegaHz. A regular capacitor will make it more difficult for the FET-switches in your ESC to close, thus making it burn up more energy. It's a technical story, and I don't want to get into the details, but trust me I've learned from experience a regular capacitor is NOT the way to go. To be honest, you don't neccesarily need one.

On the receiver packs: you can also bring the voltage down with diodes in series with the wiring. A regular diode, like a D1N4148 takes up 0.6volt. so if you want to lose 1.2 volts, set two in series. Just keep in mind diodes only let current through in one direction, so you will need to hook up the battery directly to charge it. These diodes won't weigh more than a gram.
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Old 03-06-2005, 11:54 AM   #11690
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Just make sure you buy A "High frequency Low impedance" capacitor that can handle 10V+, with A capacitance from 1000uF to 10.000uF (depending on how smooth you want it).
That's the same LRP, Nosram, Novak, GM, KO and everyone else is using.
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Old 03-06-2005, 06:07 PM   #11691
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does anyone know a good site for 12th scales? something with pics and good articles.. etc
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Old 03-06-2005, 06:42 PM   #11692
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Default stock motors

I know it is probably somewhere within the 300 pages of posts, but what stock motor is best for 1/12 scale and what is the hot setup. I have heard certain motors tend to fall off more, are you rebuilding every round.
Thanks
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Old 03-06-2005, 06:42 PM   #11693
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Quote:
Originally posted by dakrat
does anyone know a good site for 12th scales? something with pics and good articles.. etc
dakrat,

The 12th scale thread here has been exceptional. Not that many pictures; but, the information is stellar.

What make car do you have?
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Old 03-06-2005, 07:02 PM   #11694
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Madhammer,

Most motors will work, Monster stocks are good with quality brushes. I use 767s with a hole in them. Green/Green springs or Green on the - and red on the +. Make sure the hoods are aligned perfect, the arm is shimmed in its magnetec center with only a little play. Some use more abrasve brushes like putnams or trinity 4499s. P2K2 is a good one but will need to be geared a little taller. I personally have never used a Yok. 1/12 needs less spring tension than a TC.

Check out the stock motor forum. Lots of info.
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Old 03-06-2005, 08:26 PM   #11695
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Quote:
Originally posted by JRX-S Bill
dakrat,

The 12th scale thread here has been exceptional. Not that many pictures; but, the information is stellar.

What make car do you have?


im getting a new 12th car and kinda looking around to make my decision. right now im digging the crc t-fource
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Old 03-06-2005, 08:44 PM   #11696
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You can't go wrong with either CRC or Speedmerchant... Think of them ar AE cars with all the hop ups....
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Old 03-06-2005, 08:54 PM   #11697
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I think the L4 is the best car to start with.
I wouldn't pick A car without A T-bar, since they are A little harder to adjust.
Take A look with what kind of cars they are driving on your local track (or wherever you drive).
If you're new to 1/12th it's always handy if you can ask around how to setup your car and what else more if you just started.
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Old 03-06-2005, 10:13 PM   #11698
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crc t-fource is a t-bar car. i agree that its a hopped up version of rc12l4. i already own an l3. why buy the l4 and buy stuffs like lowered pods, etc... it will just cost more in the long run. one of the things i hated in my l3 is the battery strapping becoz the batteries are positioned horizontal. no option of moving the batts front and back.
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Old 03-06-2005, 10:16 PM   #11699
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Quote:
Originally posted by dakrat
crc t-fource is a t-bar car. i agree that its a hopped up version of rc12l4. i already own an l3. why buy the l4 and buy stuffs like lowered pods, etc... it will just cost more in the long run. one of the things i hated in my l3 is the battery strapping becoz the batteries are positioned horizontal. no option of moving the batts front and back.
dakrat,

Have you been using lowered pods for outdoor racing?
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Old 03-06-2005, 10:23 PM   #11700
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i dont race outdoor.
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