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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 07-22-2002, 07:05 PM   #1156
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darnold-I have heard of racers putting very thin motor shims under the T-plate pivot balls on the RC12L3. What does this do? The local track is changing to 4 cell 19 turn from 6 cell stock. I want to optimize my chassis as the car will have a lot less rip coming out of corners and efficient setups with good corner speed will be key.
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Old 07-23-2002, 05:11 PM   #1157
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Adrian....You will be surprized on how fast the car is with 4 cells and the 19 turn. I ran my car a couple times like this last year on carpet and its very quick. I have never raced on 6 cells so I dont know how fast it is but its fun with the 19t. I would assume that the washers raise the pod up some. I know that some times they use washers only in the front for some rake in the T bar but I dont really know what all that does. Im sure some of the other 12th scale vets will help you out on that.

PS.....Dont listen to anything that Dave "Tiger" Arnold has to say as he does not know anything.....unless you are asking how to putt from the rough
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Old 07-24-2002, 07:47 AM   #1158
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Thanks Kevin. Yeah im asking about what rake in the t plate does. 4 cell 19T is close in top speed to 6 cell stock but the 6 cell stock tons more rip coming out of corners. Last time I ran i had to roll on the throttle as i could light up the rear tires coming out of corners very easily.

With 4 cells i wont be able to throw the car into corners and rely on power to get me out. I will have to be smoother, drive better lines and conserve corner speed.
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Old 07-24-2002, 09:14 AM   #1159
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I just picked up a 12L3 (used - although it looks pristine. . .) and have to rebuild the diff - the spur is 64p and I run 48p.

What spur do people usually run?
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Old 07-24-2002, 09:20 AM   #1160
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boomer, try a 72 tooth 48p gear or maybe a 75 tooth
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Old 07-24-2002, 09:36 AM   #1161
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DaveL- Thanks for the insight and kind words, good things to think about.

Concerning the tire traction issue I remember when I got my Delta Super Phaser in 82', I ran that thing on a sealed parking lot that I made a course out of with masking tape. Similar to what I had done in 80' with my MRP GP12 on the street in front of my house. It was dusty and had no grip but I still loved driving the car because of the challenge of controlling it well and would time myself to run as fast as possible without spinning out.

I started running 6cell outdoor with Tyree and the gang a couple of years later and knew nothing about the tires & tire traction secrets and techniques. I had to slow way down to make the corners and although I drove a nice line and seldom made a mistake I was nowhere near being as fast as them. At that point it wasn't fun because my driving wasn't being rewarded due to my lack of knowledge and equipement (tires) and trying to race while driving a loose car was becoming a nightmare. It was no longer about the challenge of controlling the car, the challenge was now racing.

This is some of what came to my mind when I heard about the Roar Nats issues and for me to spend hard earned money to be in that position again where even driving the car would potentially not be fun just didn't add up. It seems that whenever a group of people are put into a new situation (for some of them at least) that the performance gap is potentially at its greatest. I know what some of the guys did last summer at the Nats to gain a traction advantage outdoors (although it's probably common knowledge now) in 12th mod but those chemicles weren't going to be allowed at this place so I would be starting from scratch with zip experience. Also, I thought "what if someone comes with a weird foam tire like an old black dot or something" that would work better than what most people had? On carpet the tires are pretty standard we all know but for asphalt I just wasn't sure.

That meant whoever knew from experience or word or figured something out or knew a different way of getting grip for their tires and chassis setups would probably have a huge advantage. The thought of going to a Nats with all of the expense only to have it potentially (most likely) be one big learning session (and me behind the curve) just didn't appeal to me this time around although I am usually up for these types of challenges.

I'm still learning so much about chassis setup and procedure for carpet that racing a format that I haven't run in earnest for nearly 20yrs threw me a little with all of the other factors added in. It seemed to throw some of the factory drivers too based upon their comments on TT and other boards back in Dec. when word about this race and it special directives came out. I guess the bottom line for me is that I didn't know enough to feel comfortable of being able to do my best in the non-usual parameters that they had originally laid out for this race.
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Old 07-24-2002, 09:45 AM   #1162
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AdrianM- putting shims under the t-bar depending on how you do it has 2-3 effects.

1. If you put the same size under both pivot balls you are raising the roll center in the rear and taking traction away from the rear tires.

2. If you put a shim under either the front or rear pivot ball only you will increase the initial turn-in or decrease the initial turn in of the car respectively.

3. If you raise the roll center then you may have to lower the pod by putting shims under the t-bar which could have an affect since you are lowering the cg of the motor. What affect it would have I'm not sure.
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Old 07-24-2002, 04:06 PM   #1163
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Wow "Tiger" Arnold.....your answer to his question has only raised more questions to your 3 part answer. Nicely done Now does it matter where the shim is for it to effect turn in? Like if its in the front does it turn in more? or if its in the rear does it turn in more? Or does it not matter where it is it has the same effect on the car?
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Old 07-24-2002, 04:08 PM   #1164
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Quote:
Originally posted by Boomer
I just picked up a 12L3 (used - although it looks pristine. . .) and have to rebuild the diff - the spur is 64p and I run 48p.

What spur do people usually run?
Me too Boomer! Got a brand new 12L3 off of e-bay with electronics! Hopefully the new tire truer arbor will be here soon. You going to bring your car to Camarillo on Sat.? I'm planning on running it occasionally at Hot Rod's. BTW you gotta take your 1/8th scale and NTC3 over to Revelation sometime. You're not to far from there if I'm not mistaken. I practiced there last Sunday and had a great time. Racing every other Sunday from what I understand, and they have a big Mugen race there in a little over a month.
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Old 07-24-2002, 04:14 PM   #1165
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Quote:
Originally posted by Avink1
boomer, try a 72 tooth 48p gear or maybe a 75 tooth
Looks like 75 is the largest you can use right? Also, running 6 cells and gearing per the Associated instructions, 75 spur with 26 pinion, the motor doesn't seem to fit with that large a pinion. What's up with that. Am I doing something wrong? I'll be running 4 cell anyway, but what's a good ratio to start out with for a P2K2 for example, with new full sized foams, medium sized track?
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Old 07-24-2002, 07:16 PM   #1166
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We race 4 cell Chameleon on Ozite....36' by 62'....somebody ran 6 cell stock against us.......pretty much identical lap times.....6 cell had a little more top end.

Anybody got an extra 12lc/l3 chassis they want to sell????
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Old 07-24-2002, 10:59 PM   #1167
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your the man! thanks darnold
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Old 07-25-2002, 11:38 AM   #1168
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Quote:
Originally posted by Dragon Slayer
We race 4 cell Chameleon on Ozite....36' by 62'....somebody ran 6 cell stock against us.......pretty much identical lap times.....6 cell had a little more top end.

Anybody got an extra 12lc/l3 chassis they want to sell????
Actually I do know someone whose got a new 12 L3 with a few extras and an unpainted Protoform body. E-mail me and I can forward his e-mail address to you. I think he was asking $100 flat for the whole package...even if you only need the chassis, it's still a excellent deal.
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Old 07-25-2002, 04:14 PM   #1169
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Hi Everyone!

Darnold- I scored a 2002 switchblade from a guy I race with at TCHR. I brought it home and noted that the front arms were upside-down and the rear pod had no movement in it, but when I took off the dampner tubes, it moved freely. The tubes themselves move freely out of the car, I think they are too long and are bottomed out on their travel. Did you experience this with your car when you built it? I put on a set of 1/10 pan arms from my trinity 10 scale car and made sure I had them on right-side-up. The car has only been run once or twice, and it is missing one of the little stop bars for the batteries, so I was going to make two out of a broken t-bar.(wise decision or not?) I have to find some trinity short ball cups, there are tall ones where the steering turnbuckles meet the steering blocks, and they hit the rim when the wheels are turned. I am wondering what length to trim the dampner tubes to(how long are the ones on your car-overall at full compression?), what to use for dampening fluid, and a good starting point for camber, caster, and toe, as well as shock spring, oil, and ride height. I was told 3 degrees for caster but I don't remember where to look for it or how to make that adjustment. I was going to start with 2 degrees of negative camber(I think that is where the L3 is at) but don't know how to adjust that, either. I was going to try to emulate your car as closely as I can. I liked the way it was layed out and balanced looking, as well as the way it performed. Thanks in advance for any info you send my way. Hope the golfing is going good. Talk to ya later.

Avink1-Thanks for the complement, man! Pete and I both really enjoy racing with you. It is encouraging to finally be able to race with you a little bit instead of just getting out of your way. See you this weekend? I have to work this Saturday but should be out in time to pick up Pete and head over there. Maybe I'll use a little restraint this time and actually finish!
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Old 07-25-2002, 06:45 PM   #1170
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Dave S, I'll race with you anytime. I have some of the shorter Trinity ball ends you are looking for, and you can take a look at my dampner tubes off my Trinity to see whats going on with yours. Hopefully I'll see you and Pete on saturday at the track.
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