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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 03-04-2005, 12:16 AM   #11596
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[QUOTE]Originally posted by CypressMidWest
[B]Wow, That seems very different form my recent testing of tire compounds. I've always found that softer tires offer more forward traction and less lateral bite.

As an example, my car is generally TOO hooked up in the middle of the corner when running Grey rears, so I have moved to pink rears. The car now has TONS of forward traction, but remains more free in the middle of the turn allowing the car to carry more speed. The pinks are also less likely to "give up" rear bite before the end of the run . For some reason I never have had any luck with white rears, regardless of track conditions. They seem to get "greasy" around the seven minute mark.

I've also found that Purple fronts can get hot in extremely high bite conditions and glaze over, making them feel very erratic. I'm a big fan of Tan front tires as they seem to offer the handling characteristics of the Purple with the consistency of the Magenta compound.

Ian,

I agree.

Pink is a long wear rubber and actually lasts longer than a grey. Probably is also due to it being a little more hooked up and not sliding. I also find that more forward bit is given on a pink rear and since the rubber is softer it tends to have more side wall flex hence freeing up the rear end a little.

Wait a minnute. I am a touring car driver. NEVERMIND LOL
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Old 03-04-2005, 12:21 AM   #11597
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the teflon disks are from CRC
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Old 03-04-2005, 01:05 AM   #11598
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Quote:
Originally posted by revzalot
Sorry if this is a dumb question but will Radio Shack 16 awg wires work fine?
I wouldn't think so - there are not very many strands of wire in that wire.

See, electrons travel on the surface ONLY of each strand, so the more strands there are, the more electrons that travel, thus more amperage, voltage, etc.

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Old 03-04-2005, 01:07 AM   #11599
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Quote:
Originally posted by jrrc
the teflon disks are from CRC
That IS a nice setup.

I have my esc and receiver switched and pass the wires under the shock but over the rear bar-thing.

Hmmm, nice. . .
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Old 03-04-2005, 01:29 AM   #11600
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Quote:
Originally posted by jrrc
the teflon disks are from CRC
jrrc,
That's one sweet L4. Thanks for the wire diagram.
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Old 03-04-2005, 01:33 AM   #11601
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Quote:
Originally posted by Boomer
I wouldn't think so - there are not very many strands of wire in that wire.

See, electrons travel on the surface ONLY of each strand, so the more strands there are, the more electrons that travel, thus more amperage, voltage, etc.

I agree. I think maybe high end audio equipment wires should do the trick. I'll probably look for some Monster Cable wires or something.
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Old 03-04-2005, 02:01 AM   #11602
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Default question jrrc

jrrc, is there a reason that your shock is on the way it is? I thought that was upside down from all th pics and instructions I've seen. Just wondering if it makes any difference? I attached a pic from associated's web site.
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Old 03-04-2005, 02:13 AM   #11603
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I've always put my shocks on that way. They are easier to adjust. Can't see why it would make a difference. I use the Silva conversion so there are no leaks.

RC country in Sac has 16 gauge wire in the airplane dept. Thats what I used. Most of the non rc wire isn't flexible enough for 12th scale.
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Old 03-04-2005, 04:06 AM   #11604
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Everyone seems a little caught up on wire gauge at the moment, a japanese website did a small test:

http://www.kimihiko-yano.net/RadioCo...ossMeasure.htm

The speaker cable they use is about 11AWG though.

I make looms for race bikes and there is a massive difference in current capacity for different qualities of the same gauge wire.
You need high quality, silicon sheathed wire. Castle creations wire seems okay.

My twelves have 14gauge and the pods dont get bound up, and I don't need to worry about losses in the wires. Unless you are overweight or have a problem routing the wires why worry?

It was interesting that an earlier post claimed longer run times with smaller wire, I can only imagine that the wires greater resistance is reducing the current to the motor, that seems to ignore greater losses in the wires - how about turning down the punch control/current limiter or running a softer wind!?

-Scott

PS this will translate
http://babelfish.altavista.com/babelfish
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Old 03-04-2005, 05:15 AM   #11605
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Default TiCN coated kingpins

Hey everyone...
If you're running a new style Assoc. front end and your looking to smooth it out, check out the BMI 1/12 conversion forum... We have some TiCN coated kingpins that are diamond polished... I've run the same set since October and have no sign of wear!!
Wayne
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Old 03-04-2005, 07:11 AM   #11606
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I have put together my first 1/12
AE rc12l4
I race a carpet track with the longset strait-away at 35 feet
what pinion should I start at
what is a good starting rollout
Stock class 27 wind motors
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Old 03-04-2005, 08:47 AM   #11607
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Hi,

Iīm planning to start 12scale... nice class...
I think i will race standard so I need a 6 cell car... unfortunately i canīt find such a car anywhere... Here in Germany many people race Corally... I donīt like Corally so thatīs no possiblity for me.
Which car would you suggest?
And where to get? I will order anywhere in the world if the price is right because my LHS donīt carry 12scale cars...

Thanks
Chris
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Old 03-04-2005, 09:07 AM   #11608
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Quote:
Originally posted by revzalot
I agree. I think maybe high end audio equipment wires should do the trick. I'll probably look for some Monster Cable wires or something.
Why not go with Dean's or Novak or something that is racing dedicated?

Racing wire has hundreds of strands. . . Monster doesn't, it's only big guage and with thick insulation.

Just get 14g Dean's or Novak or whatever racing wire that's made for racing application.
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Old 03-04-2005, 09:17 AM   #11609
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Isnt there anything other than rc companies wire?

i need more than 2 feet or whatever they give you, i tend to go through the stuff, i may have already posted this question but oh well
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Old 03-04-2005, 09:29 AM   #11610
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Team Orion also makes wires
Here's A link,


orion wire
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