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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 03-03-2005, 08:39 AM   #11566
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For what its worth in order of LEAST grip to most grip.

Fronts
TRC/Parma Purple
Jaco Purple
TRC/Parma Magenta
Jaco DBl Pink

Rears
Jaco Grey
Jaco white
TRC/Parma Grey
TRC /Parma White
TRC/Parma PInk

Now-the odd thing here is TRC/Parma white is a little hard to clasify. They feel like a pink really-but I think they wear faster and do feel diferent-like maybe more side bite than Pink? I think.


So-tune away.

Last edited by rayhuang; 03-03-2005 at 08:44 AM.
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Old 03-03-2005, 09:02 AM   #11567
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If i was to go with a TRC/Parma Grey, With it being a better/higher grip rear tire would it scrub of speed?

I would be running purple on the front, i saw in another post to put a heavier spring on the front, why a heavier spring?

Thank for the input!!
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Old 03-03-2005, 09:07 AM   #11568
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heavier spring up front would cause the car to dive in slower and ther rear end would be able to keep up. This I think is a band-aid to fix the problem. Probably would slow the car up in the corners.
Go to a thin t-bar and try the parma magenta and parma pink tire combo, you'll like it definitally. It works on the 12l4's.
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Old 03-03-2005, 09:13 AM   #11569
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Quote:
Originally posted by brianhackett
heavier spring up front would cause the car to dive in slower and ther rear end would be able to keep up. This I think is a band-aid to fix the problem. Probably would slow the car up in the corners.
Go to a thin t-bar and try the parma magenta and parma pink tire combo, you'll like it definitally. It works on the 12l4's.
Which goes where, Magenta Rear / Pink Frt or the other way around?
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Old 03-03-2005, 09:16 AM   #11570
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Quote:
Originally posted by brianhackett
Go to a thin t-bar and try the parma magenta and parma pink tire combo, you'll like it definitally. It works on the 12l4's.
I assume we are talking about stock...

This combo will work when there is very low traction, but as the traction comes up you will find yourself traction rolling. The Magenta fronts will grip too much (even with super glue on the sidewalls). Then it's time to switch to Purple fronts.

The Pink rears will be fine... again with lower traction. As the traction builds, a switch to Grey will free up the rear end. The Grey compound will not wear as fast as Pink either.

BTW: As traction builds... you will want a thick T-plate too.
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Old 03-03-2005, 09:17 AM   #11571
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Quote:
Originally posted by Toxic Racing
Which goes where, Magenta Rear / Pink Frt or the other way around?
Other way around.
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Old 03-03-2005, 09:20 AM   #11572
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My goal is to always run the car as stiff as possible, front and rear. If you use soft springs and t-bar, the car will roll more, side to side and front to back.
Of course alway have the right tire first, but for instance keep going up in front spring weight until it pushes than back down one. Same in the back with t-bar and shock spring. That way you know your carrying as much corner speed as possible, the car will transition quick, and your not scrubbing speed.

take care
john
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Old 03-03-2005, 09:21 AM   #11573
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Number one thing Toxic in 12th scale tuning is to plant the rear end for 8-minutes. Then free the car up.
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Old 03-03-2005, 09:33 AM   #11574
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Quote:
Originally posted by rayhuang
Number one thing Toxic in 12th scale tuning is to plant the rear end for 8-minutes. Then free the car up.
When you say free the car up, what do you mean?
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Old 03-03-2005, 09:36 AM   #11575
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After youve got it so it wont go looose-you can do little things like put CA on the sidewalls of the tires, maybe try a third screw in the t-plate or a thicker t-plate, smaller tires, less dual rate. By free it up-I mean carry corner speed.
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Old 03-03-2005, 09:38 AM   #11576
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I think he means that you want the car to rotate through the corner without the ass end sliding out from underneath it for the whole run. Then work from that base setting to "free or losen up the car" so it dives in faster and rolls through the corner . Basically loosening the car back up again to that ever fine line of out of control. BAck to "loose is fast again".
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Old 03-03-2005, 09:41 AM   #11577
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Quote:
Originally posted by JohnB
Same in the back with t-bar and shock spring. That way you know your carrying as much corner speed as possible, the car will transition quick, and your not scrubbing speed.

take care
john
What should i look for in the rear of the car that would cause me to change the t-bar, spring add the 3rd screw??
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Old 03-03-2005, 09:52 AM   #11578
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Man you guy's are GREAT!!
Brianhackett, Rayhuang,JohnB,BRice This info will get me pointed in the right direction!

Thanks
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Old 03-03-2005, 09:58 AM   #11579
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Yes, same as what Ray is saying about make the car free. You don't want to much bite in the back or it will just slow you down in the corners. 12th scale, espcially for stock class, is all about corner speed.

I usually go in this order for less bite:
Damper lube - stiffer oil or grease on damper disk or side tubes
Shock spring and oil - stiffer for less traction
Thicker t-bar - I always run 3 screws in it but you can buy t-bars up to .082" thick from Power Push now. I run one that thick a lot.
Or if you have a non-t-bar car than the side springs

I'm sure there's more, but that's what comes to mind right now.

take care
john
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Old 03-03-2005, 09:59 AM   #11580
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Hackett,

My front diff. keeps slipping in my 12th scale any thoughts???LOL

CHUMP ROAST!!
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