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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 07-19-2002, 10:14 AM   #1141
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Quote:
will the Lunsford Ti turnbuckles fit on an AE 1/12th front end? or do I need the AE ones?
the lunsford turnbuckles will fit.. you only need to know the length of the current turnbuckles
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Old 07-19-2002, 03:05 PM   #1142
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Kevin....just done steal my Fluorescent Yellow flame job that fades into Fl. Yellow stars, finishing up on the wing with Fl. Yelllow.....
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Old 07-19-2002, 03:22 PM   #1143
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They did the same thing to y'all that they did to us (1/10th onroad) - we actually guaranteed them 10 entries from Northern and Southern Cali and they dumped us months ago. Had we brought our 1/10ths, we prolly would have double entered a couple in 1/12th as well (I prolly would have. . .)

The are also FAR short of max entries - something like 184.

ROAR needs a serious wakeup call! What is it about? Clout? Money? or, rather, what it should be - RACING and the RACERS!!!
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Old 07-19-2002, 03:42 PM   #1144
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Maybe they are all running stock instead? there were 12 entries for stock 1/12th.
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Old 07-19-2002, 04:25 PM   #1145
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Darn.....I guess i have to go back to the LHS and return all this FL-yellow that I just bought
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Old 07-20-2002, 09:37 AM   #1146
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Kev- Awwwweee, you promised me a blue body that runs into blue mist and then blue flames finishing in a matt blue with a blue cockpit. Now I'm not going to get it? Wow. LOL, hehehehe

DaveL- I have heard nothing but problems for this race. It seems that their non allowment of traction compond, refusal to treat the racing surface with sugar water or something else killed peoples enthusiasm to run mod 12th.

These are major problems for racing when there is a lack of normative procedures for running the race. How many outdoor races don't allow traction compond? How many races don't treat the track surface? Add in what appears to be the general sentiment of "Our track, Our Rules" and we the racers have some serious problems that the Organizing bodies need to address.

The above attitude is one of the major dings that is still retarding 12th scales comeback. Track owners, managers and workers still are trying to impose their will of what THEY want raced and sold. I just don't get it, I thought this was America but haven't we been seeing the truth of this come out for a while now. Enron, AT&T, Tyco, etc. American business still thinks that it dictates to the consumer and that the consumer can't do anything about it. That is until the consumer takes their business elsewhere and they lose money and shut down.

This in a nutshell is what appears to be happening to this race. I have heard (although it may not be true) that the attitude of "Our Track, Our Race, Our Rules based upon Our LOCAL Racing..." has been in full effect for this race. I have also heard that a fairly prominent Nationally ranked driver and about 20 other racers are boycotting this race because of the lunacy. Doesn't surpise me that most of the other Mod 12th scalers have chosen not to play by these crazy rules and destroy their car as well. Heck, that's why I'm still at home to. Oh, and its this type of crazy stuff that leads to people finding out "secret" equipement and setup advantages that leads to poor competition and a LOT of frustration for most racers. Who wants to play THAT game??? This is one thing that the U.S. Triple Crown tries to avoid (except for the Roar Carpet Nats race) in spite of all of our other problems (such as the trophies, which we are working on).

DS- Audi would be great to run I think and the Proto Courage is a good one that we already have. The Hot bodies Ferrari gives a lot of downforce and looks good (I think, but you guys know my taste descretion). What have been you guys accounts of racing any of these bodies compared to the old standby of the Proto Nissan or Parma Speed8? Do they handle as well? Do they have different handling characteristics?
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Old 07-20-2002, 11:26 AM   #1147
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at first they wern't going to prepare the track or allow any traction compound. but now they are going to clean and spray it and allow suntan lotion, simple green, and WD-40 for traction compound. I have heard that there is plenty of traction.
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Old 07-21-2002, 12:53 AM   #1148
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In fact, it went beyond "our track, our rules" it goes to "our track, our classes" - they brought back the T-1 class (2-door touring) which was VOTED OUT by the Roar membership and dropped both 1/12th mod and 1/10th stock - both of which are legitimate Roar classes (see the rulebook)

I wrote back and forth with Trex (president of Roar) a number of times (letters published on the 1/10th Scale On-Road thread) and got no real answer.

If y'all want a class that actually WANTS you. . . at least look at Norrca. They really WANT 1/10th and 1/12th scale drivers. This year's On-Road Nats was well put together and well run. While they didn't put anything actually ON the track, they allowed compounds and the track ended up being quite hooked.
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Old 07-21-2002, 01:22 PM   #1149
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Quote:
Originally posted by newracer
at first they wern't going to prepare the track or allow any traction compound. but now they are going to clean and spray it and allow suntan lotion, simple green, and WD-40 for traction compound. I have heard that there is plenty of traction.
Point province when you not going to spend the time to prepare the track to be ready for a Nation event, then why go when it going to be sub par. I was one of the driver who plane on going to run TC Mod, 1/12th Mod and Pro 10 but they told us Pro 10 divers we not welcome so I took my other 2 class and stay home.

Let see the list of drivers who love running 1/12th mod that did not sign up.

Billy Easton, Mark Pavidis, Mike Blackstock, Jon Orr,
Mike Dumas, Brian Kinwald.

Who did not sign up this year at all.
Josh Cyrul.

So if these guys are not will to run 1/12th you might think something wrong at the track for them not to do that. It not a fun thing to run one class at big events. To much time to waste away.
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Old 07-21-2002, 05:45 PM   #1150
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Pete and Dave, that was fun racing with you guys last night. I really need to work on my motors you guys were fast. I like the Carpet Knife better than my old Trinity, it seemed to drive much smoother.

Does anyone have a set up for medium to high bite ozite carpet for a Carpet Knife, i checked crc's website but they don't say what side springs are being used and those set ups seem to be for really high bite carpet since they are national events. Just would like to see what everyone is running. Thank you.
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Old 07-21-2002, 11:30 PM   #1151
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Avink1- For mod try white springs with thin Hydra fluid in tubes. Use the Kimbrough axle cams to lengthen the wheelbase and use the lowered rear roll center setup (smaller link balls, I think both CRC and SpeedMerchant sell it and it can be made with Dubro Parts I think). Use .20 springs up front with 3deg Caster and -2deg Camber. Use 60weight oil in the center shock and if you need more rear traction accelating out of the corners then go down to 50weight. For the Shock spring use gold or red and set the tension around 1/4 up front the bottom of the threads. Make sure that you have about 1/8" of backward movement on the pod from level with the chassis plate.

Everyone- I hope I wasn't too hard on the crew hosting the Roar Outdoor Nats this year. My main beef is that we have loopholes in the rules that allow for these types of controversies and potentially poor racing experiences as a result. I commend Roar and everyone else who was able to bring pressure to bear to help the host track see some light. Unfortunately the damage has been done for all. It's a shame it seems.
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Old 07-22-2002, 03:13 AM   #1152
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darnold, thanks for the help i'll give that set-up a try. you should come to tchr when you have the chance, i could use your help with chassis and motor set-ups plus its always fun with more people racing, thanks again for your help.

simons bros, i'll try to make it next saturday night to race with you guys again. i forgot how much fun mod 12th scale is, since i've been running the buggy i didn't have much time to run. I gotta get ready for this winter ya know, mitch jeff and joe are going to be fast as always and i gotta try to run with them, o well, it'll be fun. see you guys at the track.
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Old 07-22-2002, 07:27 AM   #1153
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does anyone have any pics of some of the older 12th scale cars? i have only been racing 12th scale for a little over a year now, i think, and was just wondering how these cars have evolved over time. so if anyone can post a link or send me an email avink1@aol.com that would be really cool, thanks.
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Old 07-22-2002, 11:49 AM   #1154
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I don't think you were to hard on anybody with your comments to the nats. I have always felt that the organizer should be offering the standard ROAR classes for that venue at a minimum. These classes have priority over the support classes that typically are based on the popular class in that local area. Having said that, cancelling classes for low turn-outs can be done, but you have to identify a cut-off and the minimum cars in a class. I heard throught the grape vine that ROAR, Trinity and Associated talked about 1/12 mod and when told that the big T and AE weren't having their best drivers run this class, ROAR pulled the plug. I don't like that. Let the privateers go at it. Give them a chance. This goes against their Mission Statement. I am very dissapointed in them. You are reading this from an elected Regional Director.

But the other part is they awarded the race to a track that I understand is operated or run by a former board member that doesn't have a grip on the way these classes are run. I am referring to the traction compound rule. But Dave, we ran with a rule at the carpet nationals and the europeans ran without traction compound for years. We also know that the suntan oil has been very effective on pavement, so I am not sure that is a good reason to be upset or boycott the event. We have all had to deal with things like that and we have ended up running to the level of our ability and had a good time. I think that this shows that drivers are rather fickle about things and should become more resilient and capable of adjusting.
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Old 07-22-2002, 04:44 PM   #1155
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davidl - I think you're right on the money - ROAR has gone against its mission statement in seemingly promoting the professionals over the privateers and letting the local track determine the classes to be run. When the governing bodies don't support those under it, harsh words are appropriate.

Down here in SoCal, we aren't all that fickle. If we had been allowed to run (and we DID ask. . .many times) we would have run with or without compound. I ran a number of heats at Norrca without and I did just fine. When we did run compound, we ran Sunblock.

But, to me, it's all about getting our class cancelled - in the case of mine, it was even before we were able to sign up! We were told that our class wasn't standard anymore, but that they would be running a non-standard class in its place.

I, personally, think that the Roar Pres has been far far more fickle than the drivers - we're just a reflection or reaction. . .
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