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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 03-02-2005, 08:15 AM   #11506
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It would be cool if we could find a way to shoot current through fiber optics so we don't have to deal with heat and resistance.
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Old 03-02-2005, 09:13 AM   #11507
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That's called superconducting and has something to do with bucky-tubes. . .

Isn't a wire's resistance to a current called impedance?

Anyway - I'm using 14g in mod and it's doing just fine. It's not very heavy - I don't think it gains more than a few grams over 16 - and it runs well with my 10x2 so I think I'm good.
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Old 03-02-2005, 09:33 AM   #11508
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The reason I'm going to use the 18awg slotcar wire is because it's very flexible and won't bind up a rear pod with damper tubes. I'll run it in stock mostly but I'm sure I'll get around to stuffing a mod in the car once I get back racing. If my car catches fire I'll be sure to post a pic.

Q? - What's the deal with airtronics 94145's being out of stock everywhere? I had to order one from a sailplane website.
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Old 03-02-2005, 10:11 AM   #11509
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Quote:
Originally posted by Boomer
Isn't a wire's resistance to a current called impedance?
Resistance is essentially friction against the motion of electrons. It is present in all conductors to some extent (except superconductors!), most notably in resistors. When alternating current goes through a resistance, a voltage drop is produced that is in-phase with the current. Resistance is mathematically symbolized by the letter "R" and is measured in the unit of ohms (┘).

Reactance is essentially inertia against the motion of electrons. It is present anywhere electric or magnetic fields are developed in proportion to applied voltage or current, respectively; but most notably in capacitors and inductors. When alternating current goes through a pure reactance, a voltage drop is produced that is 90o out of phase with the current. Reactance is mathematically symbolized by the letter "X" and is measured in the unit of ohms (┘).

Impedance is a comprehensive expression of any and all forms of opposition to electron flow, including both resistance and reactance. It is present in all circuits, and in all components. When alternating current goes through an impedance, a voltage drop is produced that is somewhere between 0o and 90o out of phase with the current. Impedance is mathematically symbolized by the letter "Z" and is measured in the unit of ohms (┘), in complex form.

so impedance is really only used on ac circuits where there is an angle involved.
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Old 03-02-2005, 10:17 AM   #11510
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try this page and see what you think you should run.

www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm
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Old 03-02-2005, 10:24 AM   #11511
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Quote:
Originally posted by theisgroup
glad to hear I am not the only one that used the $50k+ of education to better my lives. lol

Funny how school is soo much easier the second time around, huh?I have been taking some prep classes for the bar and just listening to the kids in the class is oo funny. I went and took the ethics test and a bunch of "kids" asked me what I was doing taking the test. All I could tell them was it was interesting and I though I would try my hand at being a lawyer. They told me I had to go to Law School and I asked them why?
I took the LSAT, was getting prepared to go to law school and went for another 50k round in court with my ex wife... Honestly, from my experience in court as a cop and this last round... I don't want to set foot in a courtroom ever again....

Back on the topic....

I'm using 12ga on my CRC... I see no binding of the pod or any other problems... Is 12 ga overkill in a 1/12th, probably.... But it was a good thing I never did become and engineer, I tend to overengineer things....
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Old 03-02-2005, 10:56 AM   #11512
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just make sure that the wire does not tweek the rear pod. other then that as large as possible.

I am not doing the LSAT or Law School. I am just going to take the bar. lucky that Cali does not require all the school. lol I will just have to figure out how to practice california law in texas
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Old 03-02-2005, 11:18 AM   #11513
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Quote:
Originally posted by theisgroup
just make sure that the wire does not tweek the rear pod. other then that as large as possible.

I am not doing the LSAT or Law School. I am just going to take the bar. lucky that Cali does not require all the school. lol I will just have to figure out how to practice california law in texas
Yang, it should not be a problem I think California is in the North Western part of Texas.
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Old 03-02-2005, 11:24 AM   #11514
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Nice...most states require a law degree now before being able to sit for the bar. Good luck with that...

I'm going to give 16ga a shot...if it sucks I'll go to 14ga.

Blake
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Old 03-02-2005, 12:17 PM   #11515
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Blake, look at Mo's 12th scale tonight and see what you can get away w/ running. You'll like.
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Old 03-02-2005, 12:18 PM   #11516
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Quote:
Originally posted by BrainTeased
hey guys! need your knowledge again
is this a good chassis
Speed Merchant 3
i've never heard you guys mention it before and i know the revo 4 or whatever is the newer model.

but i may get a hold of one 2nd hand cheap just to muck around while i get my 2nd TC sorted out.

was hoping this car is good for asphalt tracks.

also what sites are good for these kits for spares.

all help is great appreciated so thanks in advance guys

cheers
Killer car for stock, if it's a high bite asphalt track she'll run well in Mod also. As for websites for parts, Hobby etc. or TeamSpeedmerchant.com would be your best bets.

If you have any other questions LMK.

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Old 03-02-2005, 12:29 PM   #11517
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was wondering how long it would take you to catch that one. HMMMM, speedmerchant + Cypress =Definitally.

How'd ya do sunday? Brad said he TQ'd but car fell off in the main. PLEASE say you handed it to dax.
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Old 03-02-2005, 12:43 PM   #11518
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Quote:
Originally posted by brianhackett
was wondering how long it would take you to catch that one. HMMMM, speedmerchant + Cypress =Definitally.

How'd ya do sunday? Brad said he TQ'd but car fell off in the main. PLEASE say you handed it to dax.
A "Racing Incident" at the start put me almost 3/4 of a lap down to Kevin, Dax and Brad. Brad's motor took a HUGE dump on him, and by the end of the run I think I was like 5 sec. behind Kevin and 2 or less behind Dax. THE CAR WAS MONEY!!!!! and the results weren't too bad considering I never ran the same set-up twice that day. Should be a good time this weekend too.
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Old 03-02-2005, 12:51 PM   #11519
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Yup...Platinum hobbies is the place to be this weekend for 1/12th. I should have mine ready.

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Old 03-02-2005, 12:57 PM   #11520
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Quote:
Originally posted by CypressMidWest
A "Racing Incident" at the start put me almost 3/4 of a lap down to Kevin, Dax and Brad. Brad's motor took a HUGE dump on him, and by the end of the run I think I was like 5 sec. behind Kevin and 2 or less behind Dax. THE CAR WAS MONEY!!!!! and the results weren't too bad considering I never ran the same set-up twice that day. Should be a good time this weekend too.
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