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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 03-02-2005, 04:08 AM   #11491
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Current, Resistance, Voltage and Power are related. Voltage times Current equals power, Voltage divided by Current equals Resistance.
In the same manner Power equals (Current)^2 times Resistance, Power also equals (Voltage)^2 divided by Resistance.
The Resistance in the wire is responsible for Electrical energy to be converted into heat. The higher the resistance, the more energy is being converted into heat.
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Old 03-02-2005, 05:51 AM   #11492
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hey guys! need your knowledge again
is this a good chassis
Speed Merchant 3
i've never heard you guys mention it before and i know the revo 4 or whatever is the newer model.

but i may get a hold of one 2nd hand cheap just to muck around while i get my 2nd TC sorted out.

was hoping this car is good for asphalt tracks.

also what sites are good for these kits for spares.

all help is great appreciated so thanks in advance guys

cheers
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Old 03-02-2005, 06:48 AM   #11493
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Quote:
Originally posted by Pro ten Holland
Current, Resistance, Voltage and Power are related. Voltage times Current equals power, Voltage divided by Current equals Resistance.
In the same manner Power equals (Current)^2 times Resistance, Power also equals (Voltage)^2 divided by Resistance.
The Resistance in the wire is responsible for Electrical energy to be converted into heat. The higher the resistance, the more energy is being converted into heat.
all those are derivatives of ohm's law, but you stated power was the cause of the heat. and you are wrong. it is the resistance in the wire as you stated that is converted to heat that ultimately melts the wire. And ohm's law actually does not say very much in terms of electrical energy converted to heat energy. Ohm only states the relationship of current, resistance, and voltage.

And to be completely acurate. when you apply ohm's law to this, you are not looking at the voltage a battery woudl put out, the v in the equation is the voltage drop in the wire itself. so you would take the P=VI as current applied to the wire by the voltage drop of the wire. not the voltage of the battery.


sorry for the physics lesson guys, but I am a EE by education.
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Old 03-02-2005, 06:53 AM   #11494
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Quote:
Originally posted by theisgroup
all those are derivatives of ohm's law, but you stated power was the cause of the heat. and you are wrong. it is the resistance in the wire as you stated that is converted to heat that ultimately melts the wire. And ohm's law actually does not say very much in terms of electrical energy converted to heat energy. Ohm only states the relationship of current, resistance, and voltage.

And to be completely acurate. when you apply ohm's law to this, you are not looking at the voltage a battery woudl put out, the v in the equation is the voltage drop in the wire itself. so you would take the P=VI as current applied to the wire by the voltage drop of the wire. not the voltage of the battery.


sorry for the physics lesson guys, but I am a EE by education.
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Old 03-02-2005, 07:18 AM   #11495
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Quote:
sorry for the physics lesson guys, but I am a EE by education.
Are you another who got your degree and never did anything with it???? My wife is a Cooper Union graduate, she knows crap... I did mechanical and structural engineering, I always hated the electrical stuff...
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Old 03-02-2005, 07:23 AM   #11496
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yeah, BS in EE with a second major in Math and now I own a network consulting company and studying for the bar.
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Old 03-02-2005, 07:32 AM   #11497
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Sounds like my wife... Got her BS in EE, went on to make indie movies, got into 3D animation, ended up becoming a programmer and now she's the director of an IT dept....

Mine's better... I stopped my schooling to become a cop.... I'm now retired and contemplating going back to do my masters in ME....
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Old 03-02-2005, 07:40 AM   #11498
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glad to hear I am not the only one that used the $50k+ of education to better my lives. lol

Funny how school is soo much easier the second time around, huh?I have been taking some prep classes for the bar and just listening to the kids in the class is oo funny. I went and took the ethics test and a bunch of "kids" asked me what I was doing taking the test. All I could tell them was it was interesting and I though I would try my hand at being a lawyer. They told me I had to go to Law School and I asked them why?
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Old 03-02-2005, 07:45 AM   #11499
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So...is it reasonable (law school types will love that word) to use 16ga wire running 1/12th stock?
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Old 03-02-2005, 07:47 AM   #11500
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man you guys who actually got something out of school suck. LOL

i tried my hand at college, i learned that i cant stay awake for more than 50 min(been in 3 accidents in the middle of the day cause i fell asleep, and countless close calls).

schools not for me, wish it was, but i tried on maybe 3 differnt occasions to go back, and failed miserably each time, no matter how much coffee or sleep i get, im out like a light at the 25 min mark lol
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Old 03-02-2005, 07:47 AM   #11501
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Wow! This finally got interesting...

Thanks guys.
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Old 03-02-2005, 07:57 AM   #11502
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dr

I use 16g in stock and mod 12th without a problem. If the ampacity of the wire was going to be a problem I thought it would probably get warm and so far not even close. I did do tests on the waire for voltage drop though and 12 gauge had half the voltage drop of 16 gauge. Just keep the wires as short as you can and you will be fine.

Chris
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Old 03-02-2005, 08:01 AM   #11503
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Got a question on this heat/resistance thing.My understanding is it's the resistance of the wire to current flow which creates the heat/loss.I've also been told that as wire/conductors heat their resistive properties change.As they heat up they become more resistive,which I imagine would lead to a catch22 situation,to a point.This is why low impedance systems are used in signal transmission.True?any comments?Is this valid in the systems we use,ESC's and motors? Mario.
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Old 03-02-2005, 08:07 AM   #11504
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Man, all those smarts and no common sense. That is a heck of a package for you isn't it Yang.
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Old 03-02-2005, 08:15 AM   #11505
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common sense is over rated.

yes you are right. it is a catch 22. that is where the fire starts. lol. the importance on this is that the temp delta will be approaching zero. what you would be calculating is as the temp changes the resistance goes up and as the resistance goes up the temp change. at some point hopefully the temp change will be close to zero and then the resistance will stablize. What you don't want to see is the the temp change never gets to zero before the flash point of the material.
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