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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 02-28-2005, 09:24 PM   #11461
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Quote:
Originally posted by jbrow1
I'm going to set my 6-pack up with a 3 shock setup using two ae cvs shocks on the sides. Does anyone foresee a problem with this? Already got it set up just had to use long ball cups. Does it matter that this is a t-bar car?

I don't see what the difference would be personally. It's just combining the spring effect and dampening into the same place. But I would like others opinions. Another guy tried it and said he didn't like it, but I don't think he had strong enough springs on it, or to light of oil by what he described.
It is extremely set-up intensive. The dampening n the shocks and the preload on the springs must be dead balls on or your cars gonna handle like a Bag of crap. But in theory-it should work when right.

Ray
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Old 02-28-2005, 09:24 PM   #11462
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Quote:
Originally posted by nmt6789
I dont even have a diff in my car........ The only way I can get it not to slip is when its a solid axel........
Larry... I'll be there saturday... If you get a new ESC by then or get yours working, sit next to me.... I'm only screwing with pan cars this weekend, I completely screwed up my yokomo after you left... They bumped Dave into the A main cause I didn't race TC... Hahahah.....
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Old 02-28-2005, 09:28 PM   #11463
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Quote:
Originally posted by jbrow1
I'm going to set my 6-pack up with a 3 shock setup using two ae cvs shocks on the sides. Does anyone foresee a problem with this? Already got it set up just had to use long ball cups. Does it matter that this is a t-bar car?

I don't see what the difference would be personally. It's just combining the spring effect and dampening into the same place. But I would like others opinions. Another guy tried it and said he didn't like it, but I don't think he had strong enough springs on it, or to light of oil by what he described.
Besides weight, I don't see a problem. 12th oval uses that setup. You will prolly be better off setting tweak with the side shocks (spring preload) as opposed to the tweak screws. Let us know how it works.
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Old 03-01-2005, 04:01 AM   #11464
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Yes I'll be setting tweak with the shock collars. I just initially set the inside tweak screws so they just touched the chassis. It seems to tighten everything up this way. Seems to loose if those screws are not in. But I will try this week and see how it works out. Post a pic later on when I get the proper springs.

Last edited by jbrow1; 03-01-2005 at 06:51 AM.
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Old 03-01-2005, 08:23 AM   #11465
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Quote:
Originally posted by jbrow1
Yes I'll be setting tweak with the shock collars. I just initially set the inside tweak screws so they just touched the chassis. It seems to tighten everything up this way. Seems to loose if those screws are not in. But I will try this week and see how it works out. Post a pic later on when I get the proper springs.
I tried a three shock set up on a 1/12th car about five years ago. I ran it all that summer outdoors on asphalt with mediocre success. I found that the car worked best by taking out the tweak screws in the T bar and using the collars on the shocks to adjust the tweak. I came to the conclusion that you ended up with double springing. Meaning that there were springs on the shocks and the T bar also acts as a spring. I tried taking the springs off of the shocks and put the tweak screws back in the T bar which was marginally better but then I decided, why not just use dampener tubes. While the shocks are much more adjustable than dampener tubes, (oil weights, piston configurations) in the end I gave up as I could not prove there was any advantage and it just added more weight to the car which is a major performance drain on these little cars. I still run a three shock set up on my 1/10th pan car and my oval cars but I think it is more suited to larger scale applications due to weight being less of a factor. I will be building a 1/12th oval car this summer which has a three shock set up on it. Maybe I will learn more to apply to a road race car and I have a couple of Hara cars to build which does not use a T bar so I might explore a three shock system on that car providing it does not get too heavy.

Keep us posted on your progress.
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Old 03-01-2005, 08:59 AM   #11466
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I'm not sure about the Hara conversion but the CRC damper tube system does use springs, they just aren't located on the tubes....

I've contemplated going to damper tubes on my RC10L3T which is a 3 shock setup... Since it's a T Bar car it doesn't really need tweak springs like my CRC does, but I'd have to put the Tweak screws in the T bar....
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Old 03-01-2005, 04:05 PM   #11467
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Yes I'm going to try it with the tweak screws just set to touch the chassis, and again without them. I imagine with the correct tension springs there will be no need for any tweak screws. I don't have the stock springs that go on this car, only the damper tubes. I do have the shocks which is why I'm going to give it a go.

I don't think it'll be any better than the stock setup, but adjusting the tweak will be much easier with the turn of a nut.

The only question in my mind is will one spring pushing while the other compressing make any difference. I don't think so just have to find the right combo of springs and oil. I'm used to working with offroad cars and their suspension setup, so this will be more familiar to me. Anyhow, worth a try.
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Old 03-01-2005, 04:32 PM   #11468
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Anyone know who makes velcro battery straps, I hate taping!
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Old 03-01-2005, 04:36 PM   #11469
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Speedmind
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Old 03-01-2005, 04:39 PM   #11470
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Thank you Pizza Dude!
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Old 03-01-2005, 06:42 PM   #11471
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JBrow, this may seem a little dated but when I was running a Delta P12 in the late 80's it had a three shock setup. I felt that outdoors it worked well. There were no tweak screws and all setup was with the collars. Like many other suspensions, it seemed to work best with a minimum of preload. In other words it liked having a single spring that was able to control the roll while the opposite spring would actually become loose as the other compressed. Just some thoughts.

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Old 03-01-2005, 06:49 PM   #11472
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I see what you are saying and that answered my question. I ended up having to mount the shocks so they were in the middle of their travel movement, so it would allow one shock to compress and the other to extend. Thanks for the tip!
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Old 03-01-2005, 07:00 PM   #11473
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Yes that is how the dampers are set, in the middle of the range of movement to allow the chassis to roll and set. But with the springs, we would set the car on a tweak board and adjust the springs until they just touched the collars, and then maybe a 1/8 to 1/4 turn more. Very little preload on the springs with the car set flat.

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Old 03-01-2005, 09:19 PM   #11474
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I like this pic. Quite a difference between the two for sure!

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Old 03-01-2005, 09:33 PM   #11475
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14ga wire is readily available. I know KO makes 15ga....What is the optimal size to run. I remember seeing many of the factory guys running really thin wires...maybe 16ga?

Anyone know where I can get some?

Blake
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