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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 07-16-2002, 09:32 PM   #1126
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Bodies....I 've been looking at slot cars recently(again) and,the fastest cars are based on loose(very loose) interpretations of WSC/LeMans type bodies.....which some call door stops...they dont even look like real cars....so you dont really drive them like a real car.....the trend lately is scale bodies in 1/32 scale...cars that look exactly like real cars and drive(more closely) like a real car..not something that is totally stuck to the track...what fun is it to drive something that you dont have to think about.....Somebody tell me how any of the Speed8(Bentley) bodies look like the real thing..........NONE.....the Bentley doesnt have high swooping fins on its ass...the Bentley has a rear wing...not a spoiler...the Speed8 looks like the bastard of the P-35.......give me a real race car..........problem is......A Panoz prolly wouldnt handle as well as the Caddy or and Audi...so what would end up happening...we'd all be driving an Audi....cause nobody wants to look good,. but get their ass kicked.....enuff rambling....just my .02
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Old 07-16-2002, 09:35 PM   #1127
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Oh yeah....the Panoz and Marcos slot cars have the motors in the front....just like the real thing........
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Old 07-17-2002, 05:57 AM   #1128
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Adrian - thanks for the picture of your body. Looks pretty good. You can see a picture of my car on the front of the Speedmerchant web page. www.teamspeedmerchant.com
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Old 07-17-2002, 08:06 PM   #1129
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HI,I KNOW THIS DOES'NT HAVE MUCH TO DO WITH 1/12TH,BUT I NEED A HAND MAKING HEAD AND TAILS OF MY CHARGER (NOVAK MELLINIUM)I DONT KNOW MUCH ABOUT ELICTRICAL READINGS ,SO TO SEE WHATS MY BEST BATTERY IVE ALWAYS LOOKED AT THE VOLTS E.G 6.36 IS BETTER THAN 6.05 BUT I THINK IVE GOT IT TOTALY WRONG,COULD ANY ONE TELL ME WHAT TO READ TO COMPARE MY BATTERYS & WHAT THEY STAND FOR,
THESE ARE MY BATTERYS READINGS WHEN I LAST CHARGED THEM

1. 6.05V 3556 SEC 2. 6.30V 2481 SEC
2244MAH 48342J 2205MAH 47634J

3. 6.36V 3556SEC 4. 5.79V 483 SEC
3161MAH 68616J 429MAH 8832J

5. 5.81V 155SEC 6. 5.79V 1024SEC
138MAH 2826J 910MAH 2856J

What do i look at to see which are my best batterys is the mah=how much the charger has put in the batterys??i dont understand any of it except for the sec..(4-6 are 6month old batterys i useally press start again and charge at 4.5Amps-5.0amps on the old ones and generally the V ends up around 6.30v)ive been using the v to compare them but what put me off is that 1.=6.05v 2.=6.30v but the mah on 1. is more than 2.
Hope some one can help
cheers
steve ???
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Old 07-17-2002, 10:42 PM   #1130
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Stevie- Hard to read your numbers. If they are accurate then you have some poor packs. However, I don't think that's the issue (poor packs) although it could be. It seems that first off you are not discharging your packs to a consistent point such as 3.6v for 4 cell packs and 5.4v for 6 cell packs (.90v/cell). Therefore when you go to charge your packs again you have them with different amounts of charge left in them and this will give poor, inconsistent readings because some will take longer to charge because they have less charge in them then others which were left with more charge in them. So discharge the batteries to the above voltages and then after they cool charge them and record the numbers.

Concerning the numbers the real problem is that charge readings are not too helpful for determining pack performance because of the algorithem that they must use for MAH/Joules or MilliAmp Hours.

With that said you can get some general idea of possible pack performance using the charge numbers so this is what I look for.

#1. Charge time (this lets me know if there has been a false peak. Anything under 2300sec. with a properly discharged pack is a false peak for 3000's) Pack should be warm to the touch also.

2. MAH (this gives a ruff idea of capacity, for 3000's 3200mah and up is good. If this number decreases from the original 1st and 2nd charges by more than 300mah then you have more than likely lost capacity, that is bad in modified racing of any type.

3. Peak Voltage (To a point lower is better it seems which is good. If I remember correctly if your voltage gets higher than .10v-.15v/pack on a consistent basis compared to the original 1st and 2nd charges AND, your CHARGE TIME INCREASES, then you are LOSING PUNCH which is to say that the Internal Resistance has increased, this is bad.

4. Joule Ratings are nice but since they are the combination of Charge time, Charge Rate, and Peak Voltage if you increase any one of those three parameters you will increase the Joule Rating. As I just wrote in #3 if you have an increase in charge time AND and increase in peak voltage then that is a bad thing from a performance standpoint. Joule Ratings don't make this differentiation for you so don't count on it is my advise to you.

Now, the charge readings ARE good for keeping track of individual packs as you can see from above for determining if they are losing performance. That is the main thing that I use the charge readings for, and that's what I would advise you to do as well. Hope this helps.

DS- So I take it that you dislike the Speed8 body? LOL, hehehehe
Most of the 12th bodies that I have seen for competition look pretty good to me and yes, some look more realistic than others. I don't know if that's saying I can go with the flow on this or I have lousy taste. LOL

Yes Kev, I already know... you're going to say I have lousy taste and then some....LOL, hehehehe
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Old 07-17-2002, 10:45 PM   #1131
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Hmmmm, there is no "e" in algorithm. Maybe I don't have lousy taste but poor eyes. LOL
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Old 07-18-2002, 05:07 PM   #1132
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Darnold....I really dont hate the Speed8.....Its a very attractive body....but it in no way resembles its full size counterpart...thats all i'm saying.(I have 2 Speed8's).....A body i really liked was the
Protoform Intrepid.....
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Old 07-18-2002, 06:12 PM   #1133
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Dave AKA Tiger....Lousy taste..........that would be too nice to say. I have seen some of your paint jobs. And Im not talking about the ones that Rob painted for you. Yeah the Speed 8 body is UGLY. They should make more bodies like the real cars or close to them. The Panos or Audi would be awsome or a Speed 8 that looks like the real thing.

PS nex time you need bodies painted dont call on me If you do it will be a nice white body with white flames that run into a serries of white lines that all fades in to a lovely shade of the same color white.

And Im outa here........FOUR.....
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Old 07-18-2002, 06:40 PM   #1134
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Quote:
Originally posted by Kevin K
PS nex time you need bodies painted dont call on me If you do it will be a nice white body with white flames that run into a serries of white lines that all fades in to a lovely shade of the same color white.
I don't know why, but you've obviously stolen "my" paint scheme.
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Old 07-18-2002, 06:54 PM   #1135
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Trips....My bad Then I will change it to White with flames that run into dripps and a racing stripe on the left side with a fade over 50% of the body with the same color white. Hows that one???????
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Old 07-18-2002, 11:14 PM   #1136
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will the Lunsford Ti turnbuckles fit on an AE 1/12th front end? or do I need the AE ones?
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Old 07-19-2002, 05:22 AM   #1137
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The 1/12 scale mod class has been cancelled at the ROAR paved On-road Nats. What's up with that?
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Old 07-19-2002, 06:08 AM   #1138
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Default Trinity Switchblade 12

Does anybody know where I can get specs for Trinity Switchblade 12

Thank you

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Last edited by nnick; 07-19-2002 at 06:24 AM.
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Old 07-19-2002, 08:21 AM   #1139
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Quote:
Originally posted by davidl
The 1/12 scale mod class has been cancelled at the ROAR paved On-road Nats. What's up with that?
there were only 4 entries!!!
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Old 07-19-2002, 09:58 AM   #1140
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I have seen them run the class with 6 entries. What is the problem?
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