R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

    Hide Wikipost
Old 10-28-2016, 12:43 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: 1/12 forum
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: fenton06
This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

Print Wikipost

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 02-24-2005, 09:20 PM   #11341
Tech Fanatic
 
primusblowsgoat's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Pingree Grove, IL
Posts: 987
Trader Rating: 14 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to primusblowsgoat Send a message via Yahoo to primusblowsgoat
Default

Quote:
In this one you can see the shoulder on the spacer sits in the hub. There is no bearing on the outside, just one on the inside. When I ran the regular bearing I never used on on the inside so I've just effectively moved it inside.
i recieved an l3 in a trade, and it only had a bearing in the outside of the hub, so it may be missing the inside bearing on purpuse?
why is this?
__________________
Schumacher Racing
Schumacher Cat SX2
Schumacher Cougar SV
primusblowsgoat is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-24-2005, 09:22 PM   #11342
Tech Fanatic
 
crimson eagle's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Nor Cal
Posts: 841
Send a message via ICQ to crimson eagle
Default

Rev,

I don't know if I'm going to do production versions, they are a lot of work for what they are and I'm not keen on working for a dollar an hour. So far this has been for my benefit and I don't think I want to tread on Brian Bodine's toes. We shall see what comes of it.

Chris.
crimson eagle is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-24-2005, 09:25 PM   #11343
Tech Fanatic
 
crimson eagle's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Nor Cal
Posts: 841
Send a message via ICQ to crimson eagle
Default

Primus,

I did it originally because one of my bearings was shot but it seemed to work fine so I just left it like that, less rotating mass and all that.

Chris
crimson eagle is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-24-2005, 10:21 PM   #11344
Tech Elite
 
Boomer's Avatar
R/C Tech Charter Subscriber
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Southern Cal - Claremont
Posts: 3,337
Send a message via ICQ to Boomer Send a message via AIM to Boomer
Default

Crimson - this is EXACTLY what I was thinking about.

Hmmm, could you send me your measurements - perhaps I can get some made for myself and friends here. . .

I don't blame you for not wanting to produce. . .

I do think that this is actually better than the piece that Brian sells - which works great, btw. I'm in no way knocking it!

However, this completely eliminates the outside bearing, which makes it better - one less point of failure.

Although - and I thought of this late last night - would it be better to use a Brian method - with the outside bearing but allowing it to ride free as an agent to keep the hub and axle centered?

Just a thought. . .looking for feedback. ..
__________________
-
RC10L2.5W - RC12.4 - RCNTC3(bmi) - TC4 (modded) - B44.2 - plus rent-a-rides! :D
Boomer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-24-2005, 10:43 PM   #11345
Tech Fanatic
 
revzalot's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Nor * Cal
Posts: 959
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by crimson eagle
Rev,

I don't know if I'm going to do production versions, they are a lot of work for what they are and I'm not keen on working for a dollar an hour. So far this has been for my benefit and I don't think I want to tread on Brian Bodine's toes. We shall see what comes of it.

Chris.
Chris,

It's okay and I understand. I'll probably order from Brian if the HPI thrust bearings don't work that well. Good job on the first one. Looks great.
revzalot is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-25-2005, 12:38 AM   #11346
Tech Lord
 
Oasis's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: * Sin Cal *
Posts: 10,320
Trader Rating: 36 (100%+)
Default

I just got a 1/12th scale and was wondering what roll out is ideal for stock..small tight track,thanks..spur gear is a 96.
__________________
I didn't say it was your fault, I said I was blaming you.
Oasis is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-25-2005, 02:44 AM   #11347
Tech Master
 
BrainTeased's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Melbourne
Posts: 1,342
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

thanks guys too all ya replies!!!
it does look and sound like alot of fun! i mainly only wanna drive/race this on asphlat tracks.

im still abit confused about the power that the 4 cells produce... 4 cells would = 4.8 volts right. from memory with a TC with 6 cells and having only around 6 volts left the motor would turn over very slowly. someone hear mentioned before to me that 4 cells or 6 cells would still = to the same overall voltage and capacity ? (very confused!)

so whats so hard about building these rear diffs!

also do people here use brushless systems with 4 cell 1/12 cars?

thats in advance guys
__________________
www.feralbatteries.com.au
BrainTeased is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-25-2005, 02:47 AM   #11348
Tech Master
 
Hyperform Racing's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location:
Posts: 1,195
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by primusblowsgoat
i recieved an l3 in a trade, and it only had a bearing in the outside of the hub, so it may be missing the inside bearing on purpuse?
why is this?
that's the way old AE diffs were...
__________________
Hyperform Racing
www.Hyperform-Racing.com
info@Hyperform-Racing.com
(978) 416-2572
Hyperform Racing is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-25-2005, 03:07 AM   #11349
Tech Addict
 
Thraex's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 518
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by BrainTeased

im still abit confused about the power that the 4 cells produce... 4 cells would = 4.8 volts right. from memory with a TC with 6 cells and having only around 6 volts left the motor would turn over very slowly. someone hear mentioned before to me that 4 cells or 6 cells would still = to the same overall voltage and capacity ? (very confused!)
The motor ALSO stops running when you're running out of "juice" (capacity).
Or if you put A to low voltage on it, and 4,8v isn't.
If you fully charged your 6 cell batteries your voltage will be around the 8volts or even more (depending on many factors).
At the end of your run (when your batteries are empty) you come close to the 7volts (or less like 6v).
So if your batteries give A voltage somewhere around the 8volts, the capacity is also full.
If your batteries give you 7volts or less there isn't much "juice"(capacity) in it anymore,
so the motor won't run
The voltagedrop is just A chemical reaction, and has nothing to do with how long you can run on your batteries.

I know it's confusing, it's not an easy subject.
Since I'm from the Netherlands (europe), so my english isn't that well.
And I study electronics for like 5 years, so can go too deep in it and use too many terms you've never heard of.
__________________
Thijs van M[HPI/HB]

Last edited by Tekin; 02-25-2005 at 03:22 AM.
Thraex is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-25-2005, 03:29 AM   #11350
Moderator
 
Pro ten Holland's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Druten/Holland (Europe)
Posts: 1,658
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Simply put: 4cells is plenty fast. It's not just the volts, also the amp's.
Difficultly put:
When you measure 6volts on an empty battery, the battery isn't under any load from the motor. The voltage on a dumping battery will drop to about 1 volt under load conditions (e.g. your car stuggling to make the finish line).

Again simply put: 4.8volts make 1/12th cars fast enough, especially with a below 10turns mod motor.
A few years ago these cars were run with 6cells and 15t+turn motors. They were wicked fast, but undrivable for newcomers, and quite tough on the motor (like a sedan)
A 1/12th scaler needs less battery power than a sedan, simply because it's more efficient. Less weight, especially in the driveline, and 2wheels less to drive.
__________________
http://www.rc-lemans.de/
Pro ten Holland is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-25-2005, 07:04 AM   #11351
Tech Regular
 
brianhackett's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: columbus ohio
Posts: 336
Default

yeah, but 12th scale 6 cell mod it Faaaaaaaaaaaaasssttttttttttt!
Wow
brianhackett is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-25-2005, 07:04 AM   #11352
Tech Fanatic
 
crimson eagle's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Nor Cal
Posts: 841
Send a message via ICQ to crimson eagle
Default

Boomer, rev,

I actually eliminated the outside bearing as a necesity because I needed the spacer to ride there and center the thrust. I don't know how Brian's works, would be interesting to see how he does it but again, I don't want to tread on his toes, I really like Brian and don't want to annoy him. I want to try the hpi bearing as I think it will work better than the one I have.

Chris
crimson eagle is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-25-2005, 09:58 AM   #11353
Tech Master
 
EricF's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: AZ
Posts: 1,515
Default thrust bearing

where does one purchase thrust bearings, does anyone have part numbers?

who's Brian? is he the guy that sells them from $30.00. what all do you get for $30.00? Besides the thrust bearing?

i do apprieciate his research, but...

thanks,
E
EricF is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-25-2005, 10:14 AM   #11354
Tech Fanatic
 
crimson eagle's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Nor Cal
Posts: 841
Send a message via ICQ to crimson eagle
Default

Eric,

There is info on this thread if you read back far enough. I have no idea what Brian's thrust race set up is, you could ask him on the slapmaster thread.

Chris
crimson eagle is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-25-2005, 11:49 AM   #11355
Tech Fanatic
 
revzalot's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Nor * Cal
Posts: 959
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by crimson eagle
Boomer, rev,

I actually eliminated the outside bearing as a necesity because I needed the spacer to ride there and center the thrust. I don't know how Brian's works, would be interesting to see how he does it but again, I don't want to tread on his toes, I really like Brian and don't want to annoy him. I want to try the hpi bearing as I think it will work better than the one I have.

Chris

Interesting..
So the spacer is sitting on the hub with no bearing in between?
That will move all the load on the thrust bearings. Better use some grease in the thrust to be safe. Let us know if this works better.
revzalot is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
New to the forum mig rod Electric Off-Road 1 01-05-2008 05:23 PM
hi i need help and im new to the forum racer4 Rookie Zone 4 01-21-2007 02:37 PM
Why is this forum listed under the On Road Forum? sport10 Onroad Nitro Engine Zone 0 01-11-2007 08:06 AM
Forum Changes... futureal Wisconsin & Illinois Racing 3 10-28-2002 09:26 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 3 (1 members and 2 guests)
milzaman
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 03:45 AM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net

SEO by vBSEO 3.5.0