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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 02-24-2005, 03:14 AM   #11281
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Quote:
Originally posted by BrainTeased
sorry for the stupid question but how are these cars getting enough power in 4 cell configuration? im interested in getting into 1/12 scale cars

also are these cars hard to setup to make the car handle good, compared to setting up a TC 1:10th scale car?

thanks in advance

Cheers
Power/capacity and voltage are 2 different things.
The cells we use (NiCD, NiMH) have A voltage of 1.2v.
The batteries you're using in 12th scale cars are the same as used in TC's or whatever kind of car (for example 3300mAH).
So the "power" or better called "capacity" stays the same, no matter how many cells you're using.
4-cell batteries deliver less voltage so the motor doesn't run that fast as with it does on 6 cells.
For example, A modified 4-cells 12th car is quite the same as A stock 6-cells 12th car.

About setting up A 12th car compared to A TC.
Both are very different, with 12th scale you play A lot with the tires (compound, diameter), tractioncompound and things like T-bars and tubedampers/damperdisks.
Since 12th car have A straight rear axle it's impossible change the rear camber and toe angle.
With TC's you're working pretty much all the time on the suspension, changing caster, camber, toe angle, shocks...etc.

Let's not forget both handle very different.
A 12th car is very nible and argile when A TC "does" the job for you (if you have A good set-up).

I'll hope this will answer your questions.
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Old 02-24-2005, 05:11 AM   #11282
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BrainTeased - 12th scales are alot less work and imo alot more fun. They are easy to setup and are definately not slow. You don't have as many tuning options in 12th scale and in most cases the stock setup is pretty good. I comes down to tires, lube, t-plate, shock and front suspension so if you can tune a TC you can tune a 12th scale. I set up my car once at the start of the race day and that's it. I adjust the tweek and rotate tires after each round(if needed). It's alot less work then I used to do with a TC which gives me more time to relax and enjoy the day.
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Old 02-24-2005, 05:23 AM   #11283
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Brainteased- My most important advise is to have someone TEACH you how to build the 12th diff. Not trying to be insulting but imo it is the most important thing for being sucessful in 12th (next to practice). Believe it or not a good diff takes atleast a half hour to build. And the outside diff bearing must be in prestine shape or the diff is crap. This is the hardest part of setting up a 12th scaler. After you get that down they are SUPER easy to build. As well as that much funnier to race than tc. Go for it and you'll love them.
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Old 02-24-2005, 05:34 AM   #11284
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Imagine that, 12th scale, 4 cell, stock motor. Half the price of a TC, Every bit as fast, if not faster. How can people be so in love with these touring cars. I REFUSE to drive a TC on carpet. 12th scale cars DO take some time to figure out, but they are overall the best race cars for carpet. The most important part of a 12th scale may be the diff, but on a T-plate car the T-plate pivot balls are just as important.
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Old 02-24-2005, 05:52 AM   #11285
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Quote:
Originally posted by bshack
Imagine that, 12th scale, 4 cell, stock motor. Half the price of a TC, Every bit as fast, if not faster. How can people be so in love with these touring cars. I REFUSE to drive a TC on carpet. 12th scale cars DO take some time to figure out, but they are overall the best race cars for carpet. The most important part of a 12th scale may be the diff, but on a T-plate car the T-plate pivot balls are just as important.
T bars are not important if your car doesn't have one....
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Old 02-24-2005, 05:53 AM   #11286
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Quote:
Originally posted by dakrat
question on the crc t fource full kit.

does it come with two chassis? one regular and one stiff? or just stiff?

is there a team kit and a team red kit? man i never got this confused in my life! help.

whats the kit with the regular not stiff chassis?
Both kits come with one chassis. The thick chassis is sold seperately.

As far as I know, There is a "Team Red Edition" and the standard version without the red and a few goodies. Both are very good cars!
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Old 02-24-2005, 05:59 AM   #11287
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Quote:
Originally posted by vtl1180ny
T bars are not important if your car doesn't have one....
If ya read he said "but on a T-plate car". Why start it?

As for non T-plat cars its just like not having to much pre-load on the springs.
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Old 02-24-2005, 06:34 AM   #11288
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1/2 hour? Mine must be wrong then.

Quote:
Originally posted by brianhackett
Brainteased- My most important advise is to have someone TEACH you how to build the 12th diff. Not trying to be insulting but imo it is the most important thing for being sucessful in 12th (next to practice). Believe it or not a good diff takes atleast a half hour to build. And the outside diff bearing must be in prestine shape or the diff is crap. This is the hardest part of setting up a 12th scaler. After you get that down they are SUPER easy to build. As well as that much funnier to race than tc. Go for it and you'll love them.
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Old 02-24-2005, 06:45 AM   #11289
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thas because you can run yours locked and still make it fast you #%#$! J/K lol
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Old 02-24-2005, 06:55 AM   #11290
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i dunno. It's been awhile since I've had one. You racing this weekend?
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Old 02-24-2005, 06:56 AM   #11291
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Quote:
Originally posted by brianhackett
Brainteased- My most important advise is to have someone TEACH you how to build the 12th diff. Not trying to be insulting but imo it is the most important thing for being sucessful in 12th (next to practice). Believe it or not a good diff takes atleast a half hour to build. And the outside diff bearing must be in prestine shape or the diff is crap. This is the hardest part of setting up a 12th scaler. After you get that down they are SUPER easy to build. As well as that much funnier to race than tc. Go for it and you'll love them.
Well one time, my diff took an hour to build, I'm sure its twice as good as your diff!

Btw, I spent 30 mins searching for one runaway ball
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Old 02-24-2005, 07:01 AM   #11292
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Quote:
Originally posted by bshack
Imagine that, 12th scale, 4 cell, stock motor. Half the price of a TC, Every bit as fast, if not faster. How can people be so in love with these touring cars. I REFUSE to drive a TC on carpet. 12th scale cars DO take some time to figure out, but they are overall the best race cars for carpet. The most important part of a 12th scale may be the diff, but on a T-plate car the T-plate pivot balls are just as important.
I think people (including me ) lie the fact that an imperfectly set up touring car is still drivable...

Even a minor tweak or setup issue with a 12th scale will make it track erratically and almost imposible to drive
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Old 02-24-2005, 07:48 AM   #11293
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Quote:
Originally posted by BrainTeased
sorry for the stupid question but how are these cars getting enough power in 4 cell configuration? im interested in getting into 1/12 scale cars

also are these cars hard to setup to make the car handle good, compared to setting up a TC 1:10th scale car?

thanks in advance

Cheers
Brain,

In both stock and mod, a 1/12th scale with 4 cells will beat a 1/10th scale touring car with 6 cells for lap times. Likely more noticeable for carpet racing than asphalt.

1/10th scale is harder to setup. 1/10th has a lot more adjustable items than a 1/12th scale pan car.

Cheers back.
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Old 02-24-2005, 07:53 AM   #11294
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Quote:
Originally posted by Windsorguy99
I think people (including me ) lie the fact that an imperfectly set up touring car is still drivable...

Even a minor tweak or setup issue with a 12th scale will make it track erratically and almost imposible to drive
That's why 1/12th scale is such a good skill builder, both in driving and building.
If you can get your 1/12th right, you're ready for any other class.
In my opinion indoor nothing beats the fun of 1/12th scale, while outdoors their bigger brothers PRO10 rule.
IMHO, a PRO 10 is the best of 1/12th and TC together: outdoor big track capability, while being a little more forgiving in the setup department, and easier on the wallet than anything else.
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Old 02-24-2005, 08:03 AM   #11295
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I have a 12L4 and run stock class at Stockton.

The standard big ring diff has the option of running 6 or 12 balls. I am currently using 6. Should I consider going to 12 for stock?
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