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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!


BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)


Enneti (Xceed)

As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.


If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!


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Old 02-23-2005, 03:33 AM   #11266
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Graphite - It appears to me the problem is the white rear tires. I suggest the pink compound for the rear. Double pink or purple fronts also sound better. But the white rear tire is subject to a lot of wear. We don't use it on carpet any longer because it "gives up" before the 8 minute run is over. The pink tire gives excellent forward bite, low wear and still lets the car rotate in the back half of the turn. Good luck.
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Old 02-23-2005, 05:28 AM   #11267
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question on the crc t fource full kit.

does it come with two chassis? one regular and one stiff? or just stiff?

is there a team kit and a team red kit? man i never got this confused in my life! help.

whats the kit with the regular not stiff chassis?
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Old 02-23-2005, 06:12 AM   #11268
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Originally posted by Graphitedust

I thought the oil would free up the damper, which sounded bad to me, but now I wonder if it actually increases the dampening?

An anyone enlighten me on this?
Yes, oil on the damper disk will increase dampening. Try a very oil and it might keep is more consistant. If your loose already to don't want it very thick.

If you were running on carpet I would suggest this for your problem. (1) Thinner t-bar, (2) .030 shim under front of t-bar, (3) thinner washer between rear of t-bar and pod plate (set your ride height of the chassis if you do this).

Keep doing those changes one at a time until you loose to much steering then go back a little.

take care
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Old 02-23-2005, 07:13 AM   #11269
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Problem consisted of the car entering the turn well, but as it transisitions to the last third of the turn, it develops an substantial increase in oversteer, to the point that it snaps around. This occurs about the time you would begin to ease-off the steering to square the car up for the straight
I was having that same problem last week, i too dont have any oil on the damper disks, running purple fronts pink rears, thick tbar, green spring(eveyone else runs a blue spring).

the problem sort of corrects itself at about the 5min mark, either cause the battery is losing power or the tires are getting warm and sticking, i at first also thought my diff maybe too loose but the diff felt perfect and i didnt think tightening it would do anything but harm it.

the problem was completely corrected when i put a new set of rear tires on the car, it seems my old ones were dirty, not like dusty or covered in dirt, but had a build up of traction compound, i didnt know i was supposed to clean them with motor spray or anything.
Schumacher Racing
Schumacher Cat SX2
Schumacher Cougar SV
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Old 02-23-2005, 08:00 AM   #11270
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Default Too much grip in the fronts

Hypothetically, what would you guys do if you had too much grip on an L4? For example, I had Parma Magentas in the fronts and purple rears. Less camber? Less sauce?
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Old 02-23-2005, 08:46 AM   #11271
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Hi Rev,

You really need to change your tire combination. If you run magentas up front you really need to be running pinks on the back. Magenta's are WAY to aggressive. For Stock the most consistent set up I find is white on the back and purple on the front. I can give you a set of purple fronts, they are used but in fine condition, I don't have any spare white rears but greys work well also, probably better on a t-bar car. When you get purples on the front, sauce them 2/3 to 3/4. I ran purple / white last time in stock and got within .4 of my best mod lap time with a sucky stock motor.


Try less castor on the front, you could also try a sfter center spring.

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Old 02-23-2005, 10:30 AM   #11272
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Hi CE,

I still have some purple fronts and rear pinks. I'm just curious what you would do to the setup if you had a tire combination that was too grippy in the fronts without changing tires. I think you would have to probably soften the rear suspension dramatically to allow the rear tires to stick more. I do have some front magentas and I'll start playing with tire combos to see how the car reacts with a stock setup. Thanks.
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Old 02-23-2005, 10:45 AM   #11273
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Originally posted by crimson eagle

Try less castor on the front, you could also try a sfter center spring.

True, he didn't say what spring and oil where. Seems most 12th scale drivers don't play with that much. I always use olive or silver on carpet to change the steering feel, not sure what they use for pavement. I don't seem to notice it changing the rear "traction" that much on carpet between those two springs. It's more for steering feel. I did try a monster thick one last week and took away a lot of rear traction.

take care
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Old 02-23-2005, 11:16 AM   #11274
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I found with magenta's on the front, the only tire that had a chance of working on the back was pinks and then I had to tune it to take out as much steering as I could. With anything else I think you would have trouble getting enough grip on the back..


yes I use the center spring for how fast I want to car to rotate in the corner but side damping/spring will also affect this.

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Old 02-23-2005, 07:19 PM   #11275
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Carpet Setup - I don't know if this will work for other's but I'll post my L4 stock setup anyway.


Ride height 3mm
Camber for equal wear
CRC Purple tires (7/8ths compound, no CA)
10* blocks, all shims foward
0* Toe
.020 springs
Purple stuff on kingpin
Servo flat


Ride height 3.5mm
CRC Pink tires (full compound a little sidewall, no CA)
Stealth diff grease on Disks
3 screws on T-bar .075
Silver shock spring
AE 30wt Shock oil
Batteries rear position

It ran very well. If I were to change something it would be one shim foward and one back on the 10* blocks. I'm ready to sell the car and it's already prep'd so I won't be running it again. I'll get my bmi soon.

I ran whites in the rear for a few weeks on the L4 and started running pinks two weeks ago, imo pinks are much more consistant.
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Old 02-23-2005, 07:30 PM   #11276
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Pretty similar to my L4; except I have a few stock motor changes for carpet (Stockton and Gilroy).

Jaco Purples (trying Parma Purples this week)
5 degree blocks (good compromise for either stock or mod)
Servo on L4 aluminum mounts

Jaco Grays
Nothing on disks
2 screws on t-bar
Batteries in front position

Monster Pro

Speed 8

Airtronics 94145

Quantum Comp 2

Car weight balanced side to side with Hudy balance pivot tool
Constantly evolving CRC WGT and WGT-R/T...Carpet & Asphalt...All thanks to Team CRC.
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Old 02-23-2005, 10:06 PM   #11277
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CRC T-Fource - does it come with two chassis? one regular and one stiff? or just stiff?
The team kit comes with the thick chassis. The standard kit comes with the standard chassis with machined lightening holes/windows.

The team red kit comes with dual red aluminum lowered pods, racing tires in the kit, all red alum hardware, red alum tubes, titanium tie rods, thick chassis, full ball bearing, large "D" ring diff.

I think the standard car comes with a .085" chassis, green front and rear tires, aluminum left motor plate with left side in glass filled nylon, dual alum tubes.

Regarding asphalt tire choice... most prefer purple front and pink rears. For more steering some use magenta fronts. Plaid fronts work well too.

On high bite carpet, I like black front a grey rear. If the carpet is dirty or very loose, then Grey front and pink rear.
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Old 02-24-2005, 01:21 AM   #11278
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I found something interesting the hw store today. It's called Plastidip. I'm going to try it out and apply it on the front chassis for added shock absorbing and protection.
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Old 02-24-2005, 01:53 AM   #11279
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sorry for the stupid question but how are these cars getting enough power in 4 cell configuration? im interested in getting into 1/12 scale cars

also are these cars hard to setup to make the car handle good, compared to setting up a TC 1:10th scale car?

thanks in advance

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Old 02-24-2005, 01:57 AM   #11280
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What is it?
A sort of foam in A fluid form, that gets hard after you sprayed it on?
.... Just wondering!
Thijs van M[HPI/HB]
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