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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 07-14-2002, 08:13 PM   #1111
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Paul Lemieux had one of the new LRP chargers at Englishtown a few weeks ago. Looked pretty nice, around the same size as a CE Pitbull or so.

Looked like it could only discharge at up to ten amps, but on the other hand it could run motors... Hard to say how it performs as a charger, he was using his "furbothirty" that evening.

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Old 07-15-2002, 09:34 AM   #1112
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HI everyone,
ive been thinking of getting the competion add on for my LRP Quantum comp but im not sure if its worth it,doese anyone else use it for 1/12th or is it a waiste of time??
also ive just purchised a Ko Esprit vantage 2,im stuck on leval 1,because i caint see what you gain by the other features,hear in England we dont get much time to practice/only able to race so i dont get chance to mes/try the other features,could anyone explain what the best features they use and how they set it up for them,i understand that really you need to drive the car to see,but if i can give me a starting point that would help!
cheers
steven sorry about my spelling etc etc.english is not my good point
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Old 07-15-2002, 02:00 PM   #1113
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Trips- Thanks, I'll talk to Paul and see what's up on that charger.

Stevie- Comp Kit for Quantum is important from the capacitor standpoint but not neccessarily from the heatsink stand point unless you're outdoors and it's fairly hot. The caps give some discernable amount more punch.

Regarding your Transmitter settings (I use a KO Precious/Mars) mine are the following:

NO Exponential- It slows or increases reaction around center while making it become linear as you continue to turn the wheel.

Individual End Point: keep these within 5 points of eash other usually around "55-60"and trim the car properly.

Dual Rate: Usually set around 80-90% of max. This is nothing more than the end point adjustment but for both left /right equally. So more inidvidual will supercede this. ie. 80% of max dual rate would be for both left and right but individual would make the difference if left was set at "60" and right at "50".

Throttle: Set per Speedo's instructions, I use Punch 3 on the LRP Quantum Comp., no drag brakes, Brakes set at 5.

Servo Sub Trim (Centering): I use this to set the servo at center as much as possible so that I have linear throw in my steering. ie. 50% left gives 50% of mechanical linkage throw capability so keeping linkage per side about the same lenght is important also.

Steering Trim: Try to keep this within 5% either way with "0" being optimum. I use the sub trim along with proper linkage adjustment on toe-in/toe-out to accomplish this. I run about 1/2 deg toe-out.

Hope this helps- Dave A.
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Old 07-15-2002, 04:29 PM   #1114
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I think this was posted before but...does anybody know who makes the body that Masami used in the Worlds? The Toyota GT One?
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Old 07-15-2002, 04:39 PM   #1115
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I don't know if it's the one Masami used, but Hot Bodies has a Toyota GT1 for 1/12 scale available.

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Old 07-15-2002, 06:23 PM   #1116
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I used the Hot Bodies Toyota for several years. Now I use the Parma Speed8. They have similar nose lines. The rear of the Parma makes it superior to the HotBodies.
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Old 07-15-2002, 07:04 PM   #1117
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Quote:
Originally posted by kevink2
Gents,
I'm in the process of getting an L3... not sure if this question has come across this thread before, but I was wondering which body you guys out there prefer?? Thanks for any input.
gee thanks for all the help y'all I guess the few above post indirectly answer my question...
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Old 07-16-2002, 11:51 AM   #1118
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KevinK2- Wow, we missed that one for you. Didn't mean to. In my opinion the best body is the Parma Speed 8 due to the improved traction, steering, and ease of driving the line consistently. Some of the other bodies such as the Toyota and P35 Nissan (from Protoform) or Andy's Mercedes have different handling characteristics that may suit them to outdoor/low grip situations or high grip situations where the car doesn't want to steer well enough. In any case the Parma Speed 8 seems to give the best of all worlds for Carpet racing or high grip Asphalt racing. However, the Toyota may be a better body for certain asphalt conditions or it could be that Masami for instance uses it because he has a contract with a manufactuer other than Parma for example.
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Old 07-16-2002, 01:27 PM   #1119
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The new Trinity and Parma Speed 8 bodies are just nasty looking. They dont look anything like the real cars. I really think it is a giant step backwards that ROAR made those bodies legal. Whats next, perhaps 1/12th dirt oval modified wedge bodies with full length side dams?
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Old 07-16-2002, 01:44 PM   #1120
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AdrianM- Well they say that beauty is in the eye of the beholder. I have also heard it said that the Parma body is "kind of ugly". Personally I like the way the Parma Speed 8 looks as well as it's performance.

Concerning the Roar legalization and taking a step back issue I've heard that also and it may be correct, who knows?

In your opinion what do you think we will lose if we allow things to continue concerning the scale appearence of bodies and what do you think we will gain if we regulate this aspect more?

As for me I have no idea right now so it will be interesting to hear others thoughts on this.
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Old 07-16-2002, 01:51 PM   #1121
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Adrian, do you race 1/12? If so, which body/chassis do you use?
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Old 07-16-2002, 04:01 PM   #1122
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From a sales standpoint cars with cool R/C bodies that consumers can identify with will sell well (Sedans, Trucks). More obscure cars will not sell well (1/12th) or at all (1/10th Pan). Realistic R/C cars look better than cars that look like door stops. Realistic bodies draw more people into the hobby and strengthen that class of car.

Pan car bodies don't have to look like door stops to work right. With the sucess of the Lemans series in the US and abroad I hope to see Audi, Mercedes, Panoz, Saleen and a variety of other cars adapted to the 1/12th format.
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Old 07-16-2002, 04:26 PM   #1123
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David-I run a RC12L3 with the old one piece front suspension. In club races any body that is handy. I did well last month with a Protoform Speed 8 but some altercations with a few back markers (moving corner dots) shredded it. Next time I will use a Cross Type-S Body (Sauber Mercedes).

At a National i'll run what ever the fast guys are running, even a door stop body. I'm can't see spending the money to get to a National and handicapping myself.
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Old 07-16-2002, 05:21 PM   #1124
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Hey thanks Darnold,
I've got a Parma on order... I'll be running the car on high bite asphalt, indoor and outdoor, so a body that works well all around is important. I'll give the Hot Bodies Toyota a go also. I've been running 1/10 pan car a bit down here in So Cal., believe it or not I think pan style chassis is making a bit of a come back here- people appreciate the performance for the amount of money it costs. $300+ electric sedans are getting out of hand. Not all of us are concerned about scale bodies around here, we want speed! Although a Panoz body for my L2 would be awesome....
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Old 07-16-2002, 06:47 PM   #1125
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KevinK2- No problem glad we could help.
AdrianM- Interesting observations. While I still haven't thought through my own point on the body issue in part due to lack of information something is starting to ruminate in the recesses of my brain. LOL.

I personally really enjoy watching WSC racing (basically the old IMSA with new open cockpit bodies to me) and wouldn't mind it if Roar made them mandatory for 12th scale. I'm not saying that I favor it at this time, simply that I think they look good, enjoy the full size racing, and think they would work decently at least for 12th scale.

Would such a mandatory move really improve participation? Well 12th seems to be rejuevenating well because of what it offers (lower cost, high speed, increased driver training, close racing, foam tires, easier initial setup) so I'm not sure how much the bodies would help on that front right now, but who knows.

I also think (could be wrong) that out of all auto racing world wide F1 is the most watched/biggest with Nascar and European Sedan racing next and Cart/Endurance LeMan (WSC style) racing next and then Trans Am/World Rally. Most people agree that in electric racing 12th scale is closest to F1. When you look at an F1 car it doesn't look like our fathers (ok, my father's) Oldmobile and yet it prospers.

So it seems to me that each type of racing has a style, or as we say in business "their competitive advantages" that make them unique. Therefore maybe if we market the full size unique advantages that our RC segements model to the general public then they will all grown on those merits.

Hmmm, 12th scale & 1/8-1/10 On-Road Gas = F1/Cart/WSC=High Tech, Highly refined Driver Skill, Precision, Daring Passes, Titanic Battles for the "Package" advantage, Strategy Drama. Iiiiiiii Like it!

Hmmm, Sedans=European Sedan/Trans Am= High Tech, Gutsy Drivers, Boxing Mentality Passes, Titanic Tire/Qualifying Position Strategy Battles, Drama. Looooooking gooood!

Hmm, Oval = Nascar = High Tech, Close Racing, Gutsy Passing, Titanic Strategy/Setup Battles, Drama. Boooy they're Faasssst!

Well that's all for now.-DA
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