R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

    Hide Wikipost
Old 10-28-2016, 12:43 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: 1/12 forum
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: fenton06
This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

Print Wikipost

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 02-18-2005, 05:47 PM   #11131
Tech Elite
 
fatdoggy's Avatar
R/C Tech Charter Subscriber
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: MD USA
Posts: 3,642
Default

Boomer - Providing the tires are perfectly trued out of the packet it's not a problem. Crc rears are never perfectly true and I always cut them to 52mm and run them down from there. If parma, trc or jaco are true out of the packet(?) then running them from 53mm down won't be a problem. If the tires are out of round it will cause alot of vibration.

Last edited by fatdoggy; 02-19-2005 at 03:13 AM.
fatdoggy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-18-2005, 11:15 PM   #11132
Tech Elite
 
Boomer's Avatar
R/C Tech Charter Subscriber
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Southern Cal - Claremont
Posts: 3,337
Send a message via ICQ to Boomer Send a message via AIM to Boomer
Default

Thanks - and I just found that I DID have the right arbor for rears. . .which is good.

Sorry to ask so many questions. . .I'm usually not this way but this car is so much fun that I really want it to run well.

How do Magenta fronts work? Would I need to soften my rears to balance? (I do have aqua. . .)
__________________
-
RC10L2.5W - RC12.4 - RCNTC3(bmi) - TC4 (modded) - B44.2 - plus rent-a-rides! :D
Boomer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-19-2005, 03:28 AM   #11133
Tech Elite
 
fatdoggy's Avatar
R/C Tech Charter Subscriber
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: MD USA
Posts: 3,642
Default

Boomer - You don't have to apologize for asking questions. That's what the forum is for.

Alot of the guys at my local track are running Parma magenta/pink or jaco dbl.pink/pink. Not sure about aqua rears; I've never run them.
fatdoggy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-19-2005, 05:40 AM   #11134
sg1
Tech Elite
 
sg1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Ohio
Posts: 2,787
Trader Rating: 79 (100%+)
Default

Boomer...
The CRC magenta rears and plaid fronts work well on most tracks I've been to... from low bite to high bite, it depends on what tire traction you use and how much...
Wayne
__________________
**Team Scream**Parma/PSE**TQ Wire**Roche**Pemberton**BSR**Graupner/GM**SXT**
sg1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-19-2005, 07:33 AM   #11135
Tech Fanatic
 
primusblowsgoat's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Pingree Grove, IL
Posts: 987
Trader Rating: 14 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to primusblowsgoat Send a message via Yahoo to primusblowsgoat
Default

Quote:
Primus....A couple guys have talked about running 12th scale out at AJ's in the summer time. Thats about the only place around here that I can think of that you can really race on. We will have to see what Lesiure Hours comes up with when they build the super complex. If you really want to race 12th scale out side I bet we can get a group of guys together locally and race in the summer. And if you ever need a Tire Truer just ask someone most everyone is willing to cut or let you use one.
well this summer ill be moving back south, to naperville/plainfield/joliet area, so ill only be around the rsj and ajs area for a few more months, unless i find another job up here that pays well. although id probably still be willing to drive a few hours once in a while to get up there.

and about liesure, they wont be running onroad anytime soon, probably wont even be running it outdoor this summer. i believe the estimate open for dirt is in may, and then onroad will probably be around the same time next yr, and im sure we will be able to run 12th on their tracks.
__________________
Schumacher Racing
Schumacher Cat SX2
Schumacher Cougar SV
primusblowsgoat is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-19-2005, 01:16 PM   #11136
Tech Master
 
Switch Blade's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: The British Invasion
Posts: 1,078
Send a message via AIM to Switch Blade
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by Switch Blade
I had just bought the lunsford titanium front axels for my l3 and when I triend to install them, i noticed that the threads were too large for the steering knuckles. I was wondering if anyone else had this problem? And if so, which size of a bit to use to enlargen the holes.
Maybe I didnt ask my question clearly enough, but the threads that screw into the steering blocks seem to be too large. I know how to instal the pieces but it just isnt working
its almost like the width is slightly too large
__________________
College
Switch Blade is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-19-2005, 01:30 PM   #11137
Tech Master
 
Switch Blade's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: The British Invasion
Posts: 1,078
Send a message via AIM to Switch Blade
Default

I feel really stupid now, but I figured out what was wrong. The reason why they werent threading into the arm was because the treads are reversed, so when I was turning them to the right they werent threading in
__________________
College
Switch Blade is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-19-2005, 01:35 PM   #11138
Tech Addict
 
Thraex's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 518
Default

Can't you just drill A slightly bigger hole in the steering knuckles.
If you drill it out, you have to meassure the diameter of the thread with A sliding caliper.
Meassure the smaller diameter of the thread, that's between the "threads", so the "threads" can grip into the plastic of the knuckle.
Or use some kind of lubricant on the treads, that may also work.
I hope you know what I mean, since I'm from the Netherlands (europe) so my english isn't that well
__________________
Thijs van M[HPI/HB]
Thraex is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-19-2005, 01:38 PM   #11139
Tech Addict
 
Thraex's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 518
Default

I saw you already solved the problem, when I was writing you an anwser.
To be honest, I made the same mistake when I was making turnbuckles for the first time!
__________________
Thijs van M[HPI/HB]
Thraex is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-19-2005, 04:08 PM   #11140
Tech Master
 
Switch Blade's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: The British Invasion
Posts: 1,078
Send a message via AIM to Switch Blade
Default

i knew to drill a slighly larger hole, but I was just wondering if anyone recomended a certain size, not that I dill to big of a hole and have to buy new steering knuckles. By the way I knew exactly what you were talking about....you english seems pretty good
__________________
College
Switch Blade is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-19-2005, 06:36 PM   #11141
Tech Addict
 
Thraex's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 518
Default

Thanks, everytime I try to make the best out of it
I know what you mean, you don't want to screw up and order/get A new part, so you have to wait longer before you can test your latest aftermarket part!
I'm glad to hear you figured it out...
__________________
Thijs van M[HPI/HB]
Thraex is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-19-2005, 07:02 PM   #11142
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Denmark
Posts: 351
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Send a message via ICQ to Jan Larsen
Default

Is there a way to true your tires down to the right size WITHOUT using a truer? Cause the cheapest Hudy truer here costs +600 dollars (recalculated from danish currency). I could get 3 cars and 2 full sets of tires for that!!!

Thinking about strapping the tire into some sorta holder and use a drill. Then use a caliper to meassure the tire afterwards. Would that work?
Jan Larsen is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-19-2005, 09:12 PM   #11143
Tech Elite
 
JDXray's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Long Island, New York
Posts: 2,802
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to JDXray
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by Jan Larsen
Is there a way to true your tires down to the right size WITHOUT using a truer? Cause the cheapest Hudy truer here costs +600 dollars (recalculated from danish currency). I could get 3 cars and 2 full sets of tires for that!!!

Thinking about strapping the tire into some sorta holder and use a drill. Then use a caliper to meassure the tire afterwards. Would that work?
There are other truers, such as integy for like $120.
JDXray is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-19-2005, 09:50 PM   #11144
Tech Rookie
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Lathrop
Posts: 2
Default

sup guys, im new here and im going to start off in the 1/12. planning on racing in the stockton modesto area once i get all my stuff.. just wanted to say all to the 1/12 scale racers out there
Pepsi is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-19-2005, 10:02 PM   #11145
Tech Fanatic
 
revzalot's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Nor * Cal
Posts: 959
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by Pepsi
sup guys, im new here and im going to start off in the 1/12. planning on racing in the stockton modesto area once i get all my stuff.. just wanted to say all to the 1/12 scale racers out there
Did you get your car yet? Welcome and yes I will be racing at StockMod too.
revzalot is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
New to the forum mig rod Electric Off-Road 1 01-05-2008 05:23 PM
hi i need help and im new to the forum racer4 Rookie Zone 4 01-21-2007 02:37 PM
Why is this forum listed under the On Road Forum? sport10 Onroad Nitro Engine Zone 0 01-11-2007 08:06 AM
Forum Changes... futureal Wisconsin & Illinois Racing 3 10-28-2002 09:26 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 3 (1 members and 2 guests)
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 10:01 PM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net

SEO by vBSEO 3.5.0