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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!


BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)


Enneti (Xceed)

As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.


If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick

  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020

  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


Reflex Racing/RSD:


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Old 07-09-2002, 10:00 PM   #1096
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Trips and Darnold,
Interesting ideas on unsprung weight. I believe the unsprung weirht of the motor is the only drawback with pancars compared to TCs. One way to reduce it is to move the motor closer closer to the point where the rear pod pivots as it moves up and down.(the rear T-bar ball in most cases) Using a larger spur gear will help though theres a limit to how far you can move the motor forward. If you imagine the extreme cases where the pivoting point and motor is almost at same place the motor will hardly move relative to the chasis compared to the rear axle.
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Old 07-10-2002, 10:05 AM   #1097
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go team
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Old 07-10-2002, 10:20 AM   #1098
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I'm in the process of getting an L3... not sure if this question has come across this thread before, but I was wondering which body you guys out there prefer?? Thanks for any input.
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Old 07-10-2002, 08:38 PM   #1099
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DaveL- Glad to hear about your gas exploits, are you sure you want to retire in a few years??? LOL.

About the learning, I know what
you mean about not forgetting track time.

It seems that I've found since coming back into this hobby 4yrs ago that bad cars can make good drivers look bad and good cars can sometimes make bad drivers look decent. LOL

For me rc racing is kind of like golf, a good club won't help a terrible swing much but a bad club can definately make a good swing non-productive.

That lesson was brought home again yesterday when I was trying a 3 iron muscleback blade at the golf store. I was hitting it inconsistently (as far as distance) and didn't know why. Then by chance I mentioned to the rep who knows me and has seen me hit plenty of times before about how my standard clubs are 2deg upright. He then said "no wonder you are having problems controlling the higher launch angles these clubs are 0deg or flat which will result in you catching the toe of the club too often...".

Which was exactly what was happening, I was consistently hitting it in the sweet spot (middle, although on forged blades the sweet spot is actually a litle towards the hosel) but I felt like I had to "dig" into the mat to make solid contact and thus hitting it too high and losing distance.

I was starting to get a little flustered since I had just been hitting an old 1960's 2 iron muscle back blade a day earlier with great success and normally hit my 3iron off the fairway 190 (carry) until I found that out.

However, without a doubt wise one I agree with you that most of the learning comes through practice on the track. As I am found of saying "...Theory takes you where your experience has never been and experience (practice) allows you to perform once you get there".
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Old 07-11-2002, 12:12 PM   #1100
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hows it goin everyone?

anyone from MN in here-My borther and I will probably be doing 12th mod this weekend.

I haven't seen my car for about 4 weeks due to my obsession with angering security guards by destroying ledges and handrails on my two wheels on fury. anyway, I plan on dusting off the old heap of graphite to bang boards again this weekend. I should probably go check to see if it's still in my pit bag...

well i suppose that's enough idiotic typing for one day...

have a good one,
Pete Simons
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Old 07-11-2002, 01:45 PM   #1101
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pete - avink has my crc carpet knife now and he said he was actuallyt going to leave it stock. i about fainted but thats cool. now he has 2 cars to beat u with.
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Old 07-11-2002, 05:43 PM   #1102
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You are forgeting, shrekage, that he has to get around the both of us!
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Old 07-11-2002, 08:26 PM   #1103
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Hey Dave "Tiger" Arnold last I checked this was an RC car web page not the PGA page for bad golfers. Take that kinda talk to another board would ya . You should bring your clubs to the track next time and when the car is not working right go and get that 3 iron 27 deg lower legg muscle puller out and take a swing at your ill handling ride.. That should make up for all the practice that you missed while talking about GOOOOLF on the RC web board.. Good luck on the links
2013 USVTA World Champion of the World
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Old 07-11-2002, 09:16 PM   #1104
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But Kevvvv, I need the 3iron for yourrrr carrrr...LOL. Now that I have slowed down on the laughter from you post some what you doing next week? Thinking about getting Rob to go practice on the carpet one night and was wondering if you want to run to?
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Old 07-11-2002, 09:18 PM   #1105
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Pete/Dave- Go get'm
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Old 07-13-2002, 06:10 AM   #1106
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May actually get to race my "Knife" for the first time tonight....wish me luck......over 2 months since i have raced...the wheel towards me is left...correct
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Old 07-13-2002, 10:36 AM   #1107
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Looking for a 1/12 Delta Super Spyder. Email me if anyone has one for sale. echologic0263@aol.com

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Old 07-14-2002, 01:05 AM   #1108
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You've got mail...
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Old 07-14-2002, 02:42 PM   #1109
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shrek- you know it is possible 1/12 car stock and still have a fast car. the one I used to run would have been better off this way. and yes, adam probably will probably beat me, but you know what? I won't go and beat myself up over it, all I can do is try to keep up.
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Old 07-14-2002, 06:14 PM   #1110
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Petenis- Hey bud what's up? Who is Adam? Have you seen/heard from Yari or Mitch and if so how are they doing? Tell you brother I said hi please.

Looks like the Delta Super Spyder is sooolllldd.

Anyone tried the new LRP charger or know someone who has? If so what's the initial report?

Anyone tried the new Trinity 12th scale body yet and if so what's it like compared to the Parma Speed 8?
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