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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 02-11-2005, 09:21 PM   #10981
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Default Re: When to change diff balls

Quote:
Originally posted by revzalot
Do you guys have a systematic ways to know when to throw away the diff balls?
With steel balls I just change them every time I rebuild the diff. That's like every two races or so. With ceramic balls I think you can just keep cleaning them untill the diff isn't smooth enough when freshly rebuilt. I just started using the ceramic balls this carpet season and havn't had to change them yet. My team mate used them all last summer racing on asphalt, the diff stayed smooth for many races. When I built his carpet car last fall, I cleaned the same balls and used them again; to my surprise they were perfect!
Don't forget to check the thrust bearing when your diff feels gritty. It only takes one good hit to waste one of those bearings, and they wear out quickly without the hits, too.
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Old 02-11-2005, 09:32 PM   #10982
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Yes, ceramic diff balls are great, I got 2 sets last year, they are still great. I also got a thrust race in the mail yesterday, I'm still working on it though.

Chris
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Old 02-12-2005, 04:31 AM   #10983
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Best 12th scale mod motor, and why you think so..........
__________________
CLICK HERE FOR ALL YOUR RADIO AND MORE SKINZ!!!!

http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthread.php?t=184104

WWW.BUSTOUTBMX.COM
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Old 02-12-2005, 04:44 AM   #10984
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I would say the V2 Revolution motors.
They deliver A very constant power through many runs for A long time.
And you don't need to take care of it that much as regular motors.
With regular (endbell) motors you have to cut your comm. with A lath. and replace brushes quit often.
This isn't A issue with the V2 motors, and that's why I like them so much.
I know... I'm just lazy!
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Old 02-12-2005, 09:47 AM   #10985
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Default Re: When to change diff balls

Quote:
Originally posted by revzalot
Do you guys have a systematic ways to know when to throw away the diff balls?
Boomer is absolutely correct!

When your diff begins to feel notchy, itís the outside flanged bearing. These bearings are not designed to be used the way we are using them. A higher quality bearing will last longer but it will eventually be destroyed and therefore, will need to be replaced. You can buy/build yourself an outside thrust bearing but that adds expense and additional maintenance issues but most importantly, weight!! I tried a ceramic bearing on the outside but while it did make the diff smoother, it did not seem to last as long as a high quality steel bearing.

Revzalot: As to your question about when you replace your diff balls, do it when your diff stops feeling smooth and free. You should be able to completely lock up your spur gear and the diff spin freely. I put ceramic diff balls in my car last May and I also use Niftech rocket rings which I have found to be the hardest, lightest big rings. I race at least once a week, sometimes more and I am still using the same diff balls and rings that I put in last May and my diff is always locked but free. So free that when I use the compressor to blow the dirt and fuzz off of the car after each run, the rear wheels will spin up when hit with the air.

Bearing tip: Check your local phone book for a bearing distributor near you. Go by there with a sample of the bearings you want to replace. You will be amazed at the various grades of the same size bearings and how cheap the highest grade bearings are. Remember that the hobby shops, kit builders and on-line aftermarket vendors buy their bearings someplace. Why not cut out the middle man and have high quality, cheap bearings to keep your car in tip top shape at all times. And if you want to try ceramic bearings, try KGB (http://www.kgbracing.com/) they have unbelievable prices on ceramic diff balls and bearings.
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Old 02-12-2005, 01:33 PM   #10986
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Crasby,

Did you guys race last night? Results? I'll be back for Wednesday night.

I'm in too for the thick HARA chassis.

I've had great success with the Reedy Pt 9x2.

Aloha..............JR
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Old 02-12-2005, 01:44 PM   #10987
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No racin for us last night. Ashby in LA, me in virtual Norway racing 1/8...

I vote for Reedy Platinum also!

don't eat the poi

O'D
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Old 02-12-2005, 02:02 PM   #10988
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I got the USB transmitter adapter before I left. Virtual RC with a transmitter is AWESOME!
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Old 02-12-2005, 02:10 PM   #10989
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Quote:
Originally posted by jrrc
I got the USB transmitter adapter before I left. Virtual RC with a transmitter is AWESOME!
I ordered mine last night. Once I get it I may never leave the house.
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Old 02-12-2005, 07:35 PM   #10990
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Quote:
Originally posted by jrrc
I got the USB transmitter adapter before I left. Virtual RC with a transmitter is AWESOME!
I was thinking about that so it is worth it.
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Old 02-12-2005, 07:52 PM   #10991
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Quote:
Originally posted by odpurple
I ordered mine last night. Once I get it I may never leave the house.
Be sure you have a graphics card that's compatible with the game.
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Old 02-12-2005, 08:09 PM   #10992
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I was wondering if I should run a bit of sho goo on the front corners of my chassis. The bumper doesn't seem to protect the very corners that well. One corner looked like it was delaminating a hair. So I spread it with a razor blade, super glued it, then clamped it back together. After drying, sanded the edges and super glued the whole edge like I've read to do. So would the goo help? I know don't hit walls helps too...
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Old 02-12-2005, 08:21 PM   #10993
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Quote:
Originally posted by jbrow1
I was wondering if I should run a bit of sho goo on the front corners of my chassis. The bumper doesn't seem to protect the very corners that well. One corner looked like it was delaminating a hair. So I spread it with a razor blade, super glued it, then clamped it back together. After drying, sanded the edges and super glued the whole edge like I've read to do. So would the goo help? I know don't hit walls helps too...



i dont think a bit of shoo goo will absorb much impact. what car do u have? associated sells mini bumpers for their cars and can possibly fit on some.
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Old 02-12-2005, 08:22 PM   #10994
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on your chassis the most protection will be sealign the chassis with ca its real tough and rigid shoe is is pretty much rubebr cement with a spiffy name its not goign to help much ca is your best bet
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Old 02-12-2005, 10:06 PM   #10995
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Yes, I sealed it with super glue after I noticed the split. Went together nicely, and I sealed the whole edge now. It's a crc six pack. I've got a nice bumper for it, just doesn't seem to protect the very corner that well. I also saw on ae's website what looked like corner protectors for the 12L4. They looked like they would fit, I'll have to check some out.

As for the sho goo, I thought after sealing the edges with super glue, the goo would give it just a little bit of bounce to help protect it from a hard surface to hard surface hit. We'll see what I come up with.
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