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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!


BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)


Enneti (Xceed)

As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.


If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick

  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020

  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


Reflex Racing/RSD:


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Old 02-09-2005, 07:41 PM   #10936
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Originally posted by primusblowsgoat
if i just get say a stainless steel screw would the problem be solved?
The apex of the screw hole is pretty close to the edge. If you tilt the screw in a little then it might break. I'm gong to order a CRC.
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Old 02-09-2005, 07:46 PM   #10937
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Just ran some 1/12 carpet roadcoarse tonight. First time, and I love it!!! I almost say it's as fun as 1/10 gas truck!!! And for me that's saying alot.. Going to have to run this for awhile now. Running a used crc six pack, and the thing was hooked up.
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Old 02-09-2005, 09:34 PM   #10938
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Originally posted by Tekin
I'm thinking of buying the "Corally SP12M Ahoniemi Euro edition",
do any of you tried it allready, how good is it?
Every thought is welcome!
They are heavy and maybe a bit over enginered but ... like most 1/12th scale cars, you can get them to work and quite well.
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Old 02-09-2005, 10:23 PM   #10939
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Default Help

What rollout do you recomend on my 12L3, I'm using a Reedy PT 11t double? Thanks.
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Old 02-10-2005, 01:22 AM   #10940
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Originally posted by primusblowsgoat
if i just get say a stainless steel screw would the problem be solved?
Stainless steel is usually very hard. The head will snap off if you crank it in too much, at least that's my experience with stainless steel screws.
I have had no problems whatsoever with the clamping hub in my L4. Just watch out you don't overtighten it.
Corally's test track, where's that?
start with around 32mm.
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Old 02-10-2005, 01:27 AM   #10941
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Default Left Hub

Originally posted by JohnB
Your right is does look different then the one IRS labels:
" 3 Hole 1/12th Scale Clamping Hub - This new advanced design..." and that appears to have a 4-40 screw instead of the 2-56 that comes with the L4 kit:
The screw in the Irs clamping hub is metric (2.5mm). Don't use a 4/40!
The Irs hub is the way to go though, it is the lightest left hub available and very strong.
The CRC hub is bullet proof but needlessly heavy.
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Old 02-10-2005, 06:15 AM   #10942
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Default 12l4 hub

my 12l4 hub just broke, the smaller side of the aluminum cracked and fell off, it looked a little weak to start, i put crc hubs on my slapamster ms 2.2 and they seem a lot stronger, albeit heavier. i also have the slapmaster thrust bearing kit, that thing is worth its weight in gold, a must have to keep bearings and diffs smooth in the rear. i use regular diff balls and after 2 weeks of racing, probably 12 heats, the diff is still super smooth. i also use all 12 balls in the spur gear, although i did not notice a difference in smoothness from just using 6 or 8 depending on spur gear.
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Old 02-10-2005, 06:36 AM   #10943
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Originally posted by Pro ten Holland

Corally's test track, where's that?
It's PK racing's track in Dordrecht.
I don't know if they still race there, but they used to test there.

PK Model Racing
Thijs van M[HPI/HB]
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Old 02-10-2005, 06:40 AM   #10944
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Ah PK racing. I've been there a couple of times. I don't really like the track layout. You break a lot of parts there, the biggest challenge in the track's layout is not to hit the boards
If you can, go have a look in Germany at Viol's track, it has a more challenging layout, and the track is much more forgiving on your car, and wallet.....
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Old 02-10-2005, 06:40 AM   #10945
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just make sure that you shim the hub correctly. I beleive the crc hub and the assoc hub have different offsets
yang lai

Team Tamale | Team Tekin | RCAmerica | Speedmerchant | Speedzone RC | EA Motorsports | Ko Propo USA | eXpress Motorsports | Parma/PSE
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Old 02-10-2005, 12:47 PM   #10946
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theisgroup - Yep they are different offsets.

Imo the CRC left hub is way too big and I don't like the offset, the IRS is a much better design. You really want as little rotating mass as possible.
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Old 02-10-2005, 01:35 PM   #10947
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Originally posted by vtl1180ny
Has anyone else tried throwing one of these http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...4&I=LXFKL0&P=K

Andd one of these (Non CRC cars's) http://www.teamcrc.com/crc/modules.p...od&prodID=4121

On their diffs yet to free it up and take some load off????

Works awesome and you can't beat it for under $5 (CRC guys, under $3.00)....
Have you tried one of those thrust bearings. I was just looking through Tower to see if I could buy one like the one that came with my Slapmaster kit. I'm at work and can't measure it but since it goes on a 1/4" axle, the ID should be about 6.3 mm right?
This one looks close:
and then the next size up I see is 8mm.
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Old 02-10-2005, 01:40 PM   #10948
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The one I posted is the one a few of us are using along with the CRC sleve if you don't have it already....
I still lurk....
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Old 02-10-2005, 02:07 PM   #10949
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Yes, I have a Slapmaster kit on my car, just looking to get a setup on my sons car. So you must not be putting over the axle, just one the threaded stub part? I can see how that would work.
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Old 02-10-2005, 02:19 PM   #10950
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It doesn't fit over the axel with the sleve in place....
I still lurk....
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