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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 02-09-2005, 03:26 PM   #10921
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Quote:
Originally posted by JohnB
The 12L4 comes with an IRS axle and hub. I had the same problem with it.
The CRC clamping hub uses a regular 4/40. Haven't had any problem with it.
The 12L4 does not come with IRS hubs/axle.
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Old 02-09-2005, 03:31 PM   #10922
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This comes from the AE site:

"The blue 7075 T-6 aluminum rear hubs are all new, with a single-clamp style left hub, and a dual-bearing supported right diff hub featuring the large "D" style locking diff rings (allowing the greater diameter ball pattern) as preferred by most of our Team drivers. The graphite-thru, Pro-style rear axle is from IRS."

If you ask me, the graphite axle is from IRS and the hubs are made by AE themself.
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Old 02-09-2005, 03:31 PM   #10923
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true but the one they make for the 12l4 is different then their clamping hub. there hub will not break, i've used them forever and i crank on them. the 12l4 hub broke before it ever hit the track. i'm sure crc are fine also.
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Old 02-09-2005, 03:33 PM   #10924
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Quote:
Originally posted by BBSpence
The 12L4 does not come with IRS hubs/axle.
the axle is def irs. ae admits to it.
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Old 02-09-2005, 05:27 PM   #10925
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My mistake. The axle does look the same, but the hubs are definately different.
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Old 02-09-2005, 05:27 PM   #10926
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oops...double post
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Old 02-09-2005, 06:05 PM   #10927
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I've emailed AE about the weak hub and other stuff. I hope they have good customer service.
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Old 02-09-2005, 06:51 PM   #10928
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Your right is does look different then the one IRS labels:
" 3 Hole 1/12th Scale Clamping Hub - This new advanced design..." and that appears to have a 4-40 screw instead of the 2-56 that comes with the L4 kit:
http://www.teamirsrc.com/images/irs219.jpg I've just had nothing but problems with the stock axle going through bearings, so I'm probably a little disgruntled towards it. You would think Associated would just have included the entire IRS assembly instead of doing their own.?.?.?

Oh, well, I know I've had no problem's with the CRC axle or hub. It's been bullet proof, especially with a Slapmaster thrust bearing assembly on it. It's silky smooth all day long.
http://www.teamcrc.com/crc/images/em...nails/4132.jpg

take care
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Old 02-09-2005, 07:08 PM   #10929
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Default Hara Hammer 12

Are there any Hara Hammer 12 fans out there reading the 12th scale forum?

Any idea if there is a stiffer version (aftermarket) of the main chassis out there?
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Old 02-09-2005, 07:12 PM   #10930
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All you guys saying your hubs broke are scaring me, how are they braking? cranking on the screw too much? just from regular use? or from hard hits?


another question, i recently went to buy some diff balls and they were out of the carbide ones so i just baught the standard ones, and there were like 12 in the bag so instead of just using 6, i put one in every hole, is this a good or a bad idea?

i ran it one race day like that, didnt seem to have any problems
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Old 02-09-2005, 07:25 PM   #10931
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No, mine broke tightening it. I don't think I ever over tighten it at any time, but tapping the pipes or stress from tightening must have made it weak over time.

Standard diff balls work fine, just don't last quit as long. You can buy them in packs of 100 for like $8 from IRS.
I broke down and bought some ceramic ones from rc4less and they are going on 2 months old and still very smooth. Seems like they are about $1 each. I guess the cermic might be cheaper in the long run if you race a lot. I'll see how much longer they last.

take care
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Old 02-09-2005, 07:49 PM   #10932
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i have an L4 and i had nothing but problems with the clamping hub!!!! It turnes out that the crc clamping hub works real well. And most of all you can tighten the bejesus out of it and it wont break
crc hub
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Old 02-09-2005, 08:02 PM   #10933
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i really liked the clamping hub that was on my switchblade, and it looked kinda simalar to that crc one, i only had the switchblade for a month or so before i got the l4 so i didnt really take much notice of what was or wasnt on the car
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Old 02-09-2005, 08:10 PM   #10934
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Myself and a friend of mine both had our clamping hub's screw break on our 12L4's. We did not over tighten them but the head of the screw just snapped off like nothing. Oh well, I switched to a CRC hub and have had no problems.
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Old 02-09-2005, 08:11 PM   #10935
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if i just get say a stainless steel screw would the problem be solved?
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