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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 02-04-2005, 07:32 AM   #10786
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yes shim them out. just make sure you don't do too much. it will bind up the front bearings.
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Old 02-04-2005, 07:45 AM   #10787
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Nexus - I run a 35 or 36 pinion with a 96 spur with a Reedy 19 Quad. This is with the rear tires around 1.80". My Hyperdrive Pro 12 comes with IRS rear pod plates and that lets me run the rear tires down to skins

The hot Reedy 19T setup for 1/12th is the EA F-Brush with a 3/32" hole 3/32" deep and Trinity green springs (6.0 on fiddle stick) on both sides.

For sedan the setup is the same but run the stiffest springs you can find. Paradigm Black Xtra Heavy are really good.
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Old 02-04-2005, 07:53 AM   #10788
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even with the 96 spur, which i just installed, theres no way i can fit a 35, i can probably only fit a 30 in there, on my stock l4.

even if i dremel some tplate away and remove the center screw i dont think i can go that high, or am i wrong?
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Old 02-04-2005, 07:53 AM   #10789
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Default Re: Re: Re: parma foams...

Quote:
Originally posted by Nexus
thanks.....what about a starting rollout using a 19T? C2 or Reedy Quad
on a c2, we are runnig basically the same gearing as a monster stock.
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Old 02-04-2005, 08:05 AM   #10790
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For asphalt I bevel the rear of the T-bar to 45 deg all the way across. I don't run the center screw on asphalt. I can fit up to a 38 in my car.

For carpet bevel the T-bar just as above but after you install the rear pod put the center screw in nice and tight and with a sanding drum on a dremel tool grind an angle on to the center screw nut to match the angle on the T-bar...that's all there is to it.
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Old 02-04-2005, 08:13 AM   #10791
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hey adrian,

what is a pro like you doing in gtp stock at the birds? lol
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Old 02-04-2005, 08:18 AM   #10792
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Quote:
Originally posted by primusblowsgoat
even with the 96 spur, which i just installed, theres no way i can fit a 35, i can probably only fit a 30 in there, on my stock l4.

even if i dremel some tplate away and remove the center screw i dont think i can go that high, or am i wrong?
I've run as high as 32/100 on my car.

With a 1.65 rear (that will drag the spur on the carpet) a 32/96 would be about a 1.75 rollout. 1.75 is more than enough for every stock motor. It's probably enough for a Reedy 19 too.

Be very careful trying to run too much gear. If your laptimes are falling off more than a couple tenths at the end of the run you are either overgeared or pushing. Or both.
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Old 02-04-2005, 11:55 AM   #10793
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Default Re: Re: Problem with L3

Quote:
Originally posted by odpurple
I've found that the best way to buy Speedmerchant cars is to buy directly from the website (Speedmerchant.com). The cars are in high demand so they sell out pretty quickly when they come available. The latest batch came available a few days ago, so get on it!

The Rev 4 is my first choice for a carpet car but not for asphalt. It will work, of course, but is best on carpet. Some of the factory guys will tell you that it works best any time anywhere, and will walk your dog to boot, but they are the factory guys (yeah, Cypress, I'm talkin about you! )
Okay, My car can, at Times, have too much bite on super high grip carpet, and I've actually seen Rev. 4's on aspahlt and they are DIALLED. The Rev. 4 is not your typical link car. The extremely narrow chassis, combined with the short front overhang, lets the car hook-up better than any link car before it. So yeah, This "Factory Guy" is gonna tell you that it's a wicked good car for asphalt as well.

Also, I know that there was an issue with Bruce getting Graphite not too long ago. The team, (unfortunately minus me) is gearing up for the 'birds. Try giving him a call or e-mailing the Tuesday after the 'Birds if you need anything. The kits were supposed to be available this week.

Ian
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Old 02-04-2005, 12:20 PM   #10794
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Default Re: Re: Re: Problem with L3

Quote:
Originally posted by CypressMidWest
Okay, My car can, at Times, have too much bite on super high grip carpet, and I've actually seen Rev. 4's on aspahlt and they are DIALLED. The Rev. 4 is not your typical link car. The extremely narrow chassis, combined with the short front overhang, lets the car hook-up better than any link car before it. So yeah, This "Factory Guy" is gonna tell you that it's a wicked good car for asphalt as well.

Also, I know that there was an issue with Bruce getting Graphite not too long ago. The team, (unfortunately minus me) is gearing up for the 'birds. Try giving him a call or e-mailing the Tuesday after the 'Birds if you need anything. The kits were supposed to be available this week.

Ian
Ian-
My second Rev4 kit is already on it's way, and trust me I will definately be trying it on the asphalt when summer rolls around (based entirely on your word, of course! ).
O'D
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Old 02-04-2005, 12:36 PM   #10795
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Default Re: Re: Re: Re: Problem with L3

Quote:
Originally posted by odpurple
Ian-
My second Rev4 kit is already on it's way, and trust me I will definately be trying it on the asphalt when summer rolls around (based entirely on your word, of course! ).
O'D
You'll be impressed, I'm sure! My word is is always truth !!!!
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Old 02-04-2005, 01:23 PM   #10796
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I want to thank everyone for their help, but I'm still having speed issues with my car. I didn't bother with rebuilding my motor since it only had a couple runs on it when the problem started so I just borrowed on from one the guys at the track to test out who always wicked fast motors. That helped, but once again I only picked up about another tenth per lap. So the car is getting better but I'm still well off my usual pace. I've scratched my head so much I think my hair is falling out. These are the things I've looked over or thought about or double checked. Motor performance, rollout, ride height, rolling resistance of car, freeness of suspension components, and if the body is dragging. Has anyone else ever had a problem like this? I'm about ready to see how well a 1/12th car acts like a frisbee.

And as for a new car I'm going to wait until closer to summer. It seems almost impossible for the average person to get any 1/12th scale stuff this winter with the worlds, cleveland, and the birds all pretty much back to back.
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Old 02-04-2005, 01:32 PM   #10797
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Default 1/12th

Bad Andy,try reseting your speed control.Sometimes they go out of calibration.
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Old 02-04-2005, 01:46 PM   #10798
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Quote:
Originally posted by Bad-Andy
I want to thank everyone for their help, but I'm still having speed issues with my car. I didn't bother with rebuilding my motor since it only had a couple runs on it when the problem started so I just borrowed on from one the guys at the track to test out who always wicked fast motors. That helped, but once again I only picked up about another tenth per lap. So the car is getting better but I'm still well off my usual pace. I've scratched my head so much I think my hair is falling out. These are the things I've looked over or thought about or double checked. Motor performance, rollout, ride height, rolling resistance of car, freeness of suspension components, and if the body is dragging. Has anyone else ever had a problem like this? I'm about ready to see how well a 1/12th car acts like a frisbee.

Are you running the same set of tires all day? If so clean them out with Lighter fluid or motor spray after each round. Sometimes the tires will build up a ton of traction due to the compound used, and actually get slower throughout the day, That's what your problem sounds like to me.
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Old 02-04-2005, 01:53 PM   #10799
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Bad Andy - You got something weird going on for sure. Other then what has been suggested, how about your batteries? Are they still the same? Just go through and check everything. Could be something small. A guy at my track just had similar problems and it turned out to be his ride height, chassis was dragging. He cut his tires down and forgot to check it.
Good luck and let us know.

primus - I've dropped clear down to a 88 spur before running stock. Not my first choice, but I could get the ratio I wanted with it.

take care
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Old 02-04-2005, 02:21 PM   #10800
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Hey Ian, where do you run 12th asphalt around here?
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