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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 07-01-2002, 08:56 PM   #1066
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didn't race my 1/12th, I was at the TCS race in Salt Lake
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Old 07-03-2002, 05:40 PM   #1067
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Hello gang,

Just thought I'd drop by and let everyone know I'm still around. Looks like you guys have been working your brains pretty hard lately with all this roll center this, camber gain that.
Thinking about cruising over to Cinncy to run with Rob Love and the Ohio gang. They run carpet all year.

Been running any gas David Lee? I think I remember you used to run 1/8th scale, Mugen right?

Sup, Dragon.

Happy Holiday everyone!
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Old 07-03-2002, 05:57 PM   #1068
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Sup Socko...thought you fell off the edge of the world...the world is flat ..right....
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Old 07-04-2002, 09:51 AM   #1069
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Hey guys,

How is everyone? Happy 4th of July! Hope that the weather in your neck of the woods is as nice as it is here in MN today! How is everyone's racing programs going?

Haven't had the chance to race for a while. Taxi just got lame, trying to avoid getting hit and my real race car is nearing completion.

In my limited spare time, I have been trying to find a place that will sell 1/8" thick carbon fiber sheets, 1' by 1' to make my own chassis for my 1/12 scale. Does anyone know where I may find something like this, and how to go about cutting it out when I do find some? Carbon Fiber dust is nasty stuff, and I have a garage and a Dremel tool at my disposal. I was going to purchase a router deal for the Dremel, and try to find some kind of bit that will not chew the carbon fiber all up. Has anyone done anything like this before? Is it a pretty big undertaking, because I have about 2 or three designs I was going to try out and stick with what worked best for me. I was also going to make my own front and rear suspension, probably out of aluminum or delrin. I am unsure of what I am getting myself into, but from what I have seen, 1/12 scale guys are always looking to improve on something that the factory put out, and put a lot of thought into what they think will work.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Hey Darnold, FORE!

Dave S
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Old 07-04-2002, 11:40 AM   #1070
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Dave......When i remember the name...(a graphite company)i'll shoot it to you....I have done several scratch built cars myself(1/10)one has my own front end design and the other my rear end design........if i can get some pics i'll post em'....of course if you use them...you'll have to pay...... ...I used a dremel with the big cutting wheel...scratch the layout with an x-acto......get to cutting.....wear a mask and glasses that seal around your eyes.....

Happy 4th. all
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Old 07-04-2002, 07:51 PM   #1071
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Here is a source for all types of CF Plates and more:

http://www.acp-composites.com/acp-gp.htm]

Click on the Pricing Info button at the bottom of the page for details.
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Last edited by AdrianM; 07-04-2002 at 07:53 PM.
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Old 07-05-2002, 07:24 AM   #1072
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I thought ACP went out of business....i purchased some fiberglass plates from them years ago.
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Old 07-05-2002, 08:12 PM   #1073
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Hey everybody, hope you had a good 4th. I think I am going to run a practice day in a couple of weeks to knock the rust off.


Dave S.- Try Mr. Eddy at Wind Tunnel Racing (www.windtunnelracing.com) or 8775692403 and he should be able to help you. This guy also does T-bars guys and the quality is very high. Now
we can get custome stuff of our own. BTW his prices are very reasonable. How's Pete doing Dave?


Glad to hear of the 12th scale success AdrianM.

Have the Outdoor Roar Nat's happened yet anyone?

Oh well, Bob S. has gotten James and I some tickets to the Western Open so we will be going there tomorrow to check out some of the PGA guys.
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Old 07-05-2002, 08:46 PM   #1074
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Darnold, Dragon Slayer, and Adrian M-


Thanks a lot for the information, guys! I will definately give these guys a call and let you all know how it progresses.

Darnold- Pete's doing good, workin on the weekends, riding the wheels off of his bike, and helping out my dad and I when he can with the Nova.

Dragon Slayer- Thanks for offering to post pix of your suspensions, but I don't think that's a good idea. What if someone else "borrows" the design and sells it as their own? That would suck! Plus, ( don't take this the wrong way) I don't want to contaminate what's already in my head with what other people are doing/ have already done. Otherwise, it will never really be my own and I would feel like I stole from someone. I hope I didn't come off as a jerk just now, I applaud anyone for thinking about how to make something better and actually do it. That is how innovation is born and even better things come to be.


Adrian M- Thank you very much for the information, I hope, if my budget will allow, I can initialize this sooner rather than later.


Have a good race weekend, I wish everyone whom posts here a TQ and an A-Main win!

Dave S
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Old 07-05-2002, 11:22 PM   #1075
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DaveS....no problem.......I do not have an engineering background....just some ideas floating around in my head......
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Old 07-06-2002, 10:02 PM   #1076
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Are any of you guys using the Speed 8 body from Parma? If so do you prefer the light weight or the regular weight version? What do you think about Protoforms Speed 8 Body? Anybody have the pleasure of running the Trinity Speed 9 body yet? Do you prefer lightweight to regular weight when it comes to bodies? Thanks.
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Old 07-07-2002, 02:10 AM   #1077
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Kraig,,,,I was running the PF P-35....and have started using the Parma Speed8......havent had time to test back to back...but the Light Weight(LW) Speed8 body seems to hold up to abuse very well(dang hacks)lol.....i would have thought the"LW" body would have cracked easily...maybe, it being more flexible is the trick????
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Old 07-08-2002, 03:55 PM   #1078
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Kraig- I've found that running lightweight bodies helps the car to handle better by giving it more overall grip. I think the lighter body does this by allowing the suspension to work more freely.


You also have less weight for the suspension to account for. Sometimes it's easy to overlook the fact that 2-3oz. on a 12th is equal to 9-13lbs scaled (based upon a 1500lb. road race car and 28-29oz 12th scale car if my calculations are correct).


Is 9-13lbs a lot in racing? It depends on where the weight is placed. If I remember correctly unsprung weight (such as our bodies I believe) will actually have an exponential increase effect.


So small savings can make big differences in suspension oscillation dynamics or CG, Moment of Inertia, and Weight Transfer. Even the dynamic state of the Roll Center (I think I remember this being called the Instantaneous Roll Center) will be affected. Also, rotational weight savings pays exponential savings due to rotational mass forces. Of course just looking at the overall difference of 9-13lbs is no biggie from a power to weight ratio (about 1/2lb per h.p. based upon 1500lbs/200h.p.).


That's why I say it depends on where the weight is. In our case a heavier body raises the CG and changes some of the other dynamics for handling in a detrimental manner and the greater the speed the greater the increase in detrimental forces. I believe that's why in mod 12th and in the top echelon of 12th stock just about everyone runs a light weight body. It's at least my two cents worth.
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Old 07-08-2002, 04:02 PM   #1079
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that's actualy about $2 worth! some pretty big words there. J/K

I am at the point where I just put my car on the track and drive it. No need to worry about differences in suspension oscillation dynamics or CG, Moment of Inertia, Weight Transfer, dynamic state of the Roll Center. I am not that good of a driver yet!
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Old 07-08-2002, 04:07 PM   #1080
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Although the body is actually sprung weight (sorry to disagree darnold), I'd never race with anything but a lightweight body, with as little paint as possible in it.

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