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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 02-03-2005, 06:07 PM   #10771
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Default parma foams...

Is this the complete listing of parma 12th scale foams:

Purple Front Tires
Magenta Front Tires

Pink Rear Tires
White Rear Foam Tire
Gray Rear Tires

just trying to match up compounds to my TRCs...when i recieved my car it was mounted with cyan/granites which worked pretty well...
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Old 02-03-2005, 06:11 PM   #10772
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Thanks guys for the quick reply. That is exactly the problem I am having though. As I adjust my pinion and spur to maintain the "target" rollout the car still loses speed. I even threw on the biggest gear I could fit on the car, which gave me a rollout around 1.85. I knew it was too tall by tried it anyway. I did pick up a tenth per lap but was still about 1 full second off the pace, per lap. I thought about the ride height issue too, but it was at almost 4mm so I'm still scratching my head. I will try the green and blue springs on my motor, thanks again.
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Old 02-03-2005, 06:20 PM   #10773
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Quote:
Originally posted by Bad-Andy
Thanks guys for the quick reply. That is exactly the problem I am having though. As I adjust my pinion and spur to maintain the "target" rollout the car still loses speed. I even threw on the biggest gear I could fit on the car, which gave me a rollout around 1.85. I knew it was too tall by tried it anyway. I did pick up a tenth per lap but was still about 1 full second off the pace, per lap. I thought about the ride height issue too, but it was at almost 4mm so I'm still scratching my head. I will try the green and blue springs on my motor, thanks again.
The other thing we are finding with these stock motors is that they really begin to slow after three runs. Meaning we are cutting the coms after three runs max. At big events we cut them after every run!! We go through a bunch of motors looking for the best, believe me, there are differences, and save the top performers for bigger races.

You know, keep Godzilla in the can until you need him!! Evaluate your competition and use only enough to barely win. If you go out each night and crush everyone, no one will want to play with you.
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Old 02-03-2005, 06:33 PM   #10774
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Quote:
Originally posted by picco007
John,

Thanks, well this past weekend I ran a 10 x 2. Our track is 135 to 150 in by 50 to 65 feet. I ran a 21 and 22 pinion and a 100 t spur and I had to baby the throttle almost all race to make run time. I could be fast but then I would dump. Since I'm running a 10 x 2 I have to push it a little harder than the guys running 9x 2's......So understanding rollout may help me....

So I may have to get some info from you. Thanks.
Picco007,
As you know I'm running a 9X3 at 34-35mm rollout. One thing that could be causing your runtime issues is rear tire size. I think your tires last week were a little big and even though you adjust your rollout there is still too much rotating mass. As you tires get smaller so does the weight and run time goes up a bit.
JohnB is right, some are just easier on the throttle. The more you run the car the faster you will get believe me. Your not the only one with runtime issues Hang in there
Paul
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Old 02-03-2005, 08:00 PM   #10775
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Hi Picco,

I'm right with you, I don't like this tippy tappy stuff on the throttle, I like to sqeeze it untill it squeals in pain.... Unfortunately this is not how you race mod 12th, maybe the 3700 cells will help a little. I have been running my 9x2 a few times and it is ballistically fast, but I have to be really gently with the dangerous stick (yes I drive with a stick radio). My 11 turn died recently (RIP) so my next motor will is a 13 wind but it's too slow, however I can hit the throttle as much as I like. Hopefully EJ will turn up at the track this week and I can get an 11 or maybe a 12 wind from him, I'd like a single this time.

Chris
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Old 02-03-2005, 09:20 PM   #10776
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Most of the really fast pros that run 8-10T motors may run several laps without ever using full throttle. The use a squirt of full throttle to make a pass. Usually late in the race when they are fairly sure that have conserved enough batts to go for it. 1/12th Mod is all about strategy. Use the first few minutes of the race to set yourself up to be in a good position to make a late race charge for position. If you are the leader and you have a little gap on 2nd you roll the throttle and listen to the announcer. If 2nd is gaining you use a little more throttle to maintain your interval. The only way to learn to drive like this is to pracitce...A LOT. Running 1/12th Mod AND being really fast takes tremendous discipline.
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Old 02-03-2005, 09:32 PM   #10777
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Quote:
Originally posted by AdrianM
Most of the really fast pros that run 8-10T motors may run several laps without ever using full throttle. The use a squirt of full throttle to make a pass. Usually late in the race when they are fairly sure that have conserved enough batts to go for it. 1/12th Mod is all about strategy. Use the first few minutes of the race to set yourself up to be in a good position to make a late race charge for position. If you are the leader and you have a little gap on 2nd you roll the throttle and listen to the announcer. If 2nd is gaining you use a little more throttle to maintain your interval. The only way to learn to drive like this is to pracitce...A LOT. Running 1/12th Mod AND being really fast takes tremendous discipline.
This is like driving my 8th scale Nitro. I do lots of feathering throttle movements because the motors are torquey. So it's like aim and throttle; aim and throttle; aim and throttle. I'm more comfortable driving this way of driving than modulating the throttle. You guys think 8th scale Nitro and 12th scale mod driving styles are similar?
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Old 02-03-2005, 09:36 PM   #10778
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Hi Adrian,

Yes you are right, I ran my 9x2 for our recent competition here, I don't think I got even close to using full throttle for the first 3 minutes of any of my races, I also program a delay into my transmitter too. I managed to take third in the end but I had nothing in my cells at the end of every race. It's even more difficult when you are chasing your setup too.
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Old 02-03-2005, 09:41 PM   #10779
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revzalot,

If you are going to race stock, that is an easier way in, launching into Mod will not be a good idea. But with 12th you have to drive around the corner and be smoother with the throttle. Nothing like nitro at all.

Come and talk to me on Saturday if you are coming out to Stockton, just ask for Dusty.

Chris

Last edited by crimson eagle; 02-03-2005 at 09:50 PM.
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Old 02-03-2005, 09:51 PM   #10780
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Default Re: parma foams...

Quote:
Originally posted by Nexus
Is this the complete listing of parma 12th scale foams:

Purple Front Tires
Magenta Front Tires

Pink Rear Tires
White Rear Foam Tire
Gray Rear Tires

just trying to match up compounds to my TRCs...when i recieved my car it was mounted with cyan/granites which worked pretty well...
Run Magenta/Pink in mod, and Purple/Gray in stock.

Start with a 1.60-1.65 rollout on a monster, and a 1.50 with a Roar Epic. And I run a 1.45-1.50 on PT 10x2's.
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Old 02-03-2005, 09:55 PM   #10781
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Quote:
Originally posted by crimson eagle
revzalot,

If you are going to race stock, that is an easier way in, launching into Mod will not be a good idea. But with 12th you have to drive around the corner and be smoother with the throttle. Nothing like nitro at all.

Come and talk to me on Saturday if you are coming out to Stockton, just ask for Dusty.

Chris
Thanks. Will do. Are you going to bring your Pro Trak? I'd like to take a look at it.
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Old 02-03-2005, 09:58 PM   #10782
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Rev,

yes i have a customer for a Pro Trak this weekend, and I'll be running mine as always with my laptop hook up running.
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Old 02-03-2005, 09:59 PM   #10783
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Default Re: Re: parma foams...

Quote:
Originally posted by pimpedaccord
[BStart with a 1.60-1.65 rollout on a monster, and a 1.50 with a Roar Epic. And I run a 1.45-1.50 on PT 10x2's. [/B]
thanks.....what about a starting rollout using a 19T? C2 or Reedy Quad
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Old 02-04-2005, 04:21 AM   #10784
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Here's another theory about run time.
Your current when accelerating from 0 to top speed is around the 120 A.
When you're driving at full speed your current will be around the 2 to 5 A.
So if you're running at full speed most of the time, you'll be using less energie.
In other words, the faster you go (through A turn) the less energy you'll use.

What I'm trying to say, it doesn't really that matter if you're driving at top speed or not.
It's better to drive in A clean "flow".
Don't yank the throttle, but squeeze it slowly when coming out A corner.
This will take A lot of practise, but these days there are many transmitters with good traction control
and all those other things, use them!
I don't really like to use those driver aids, but they will help you to lower your tracktimes...
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Old 02-04-2005, 07:28 AM   #10785
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Default 12l4 front wheel loose

Building a 12l4 and after putting front wheels(new trc purles) on noticed that the front axles seem longer than the width of the wheel. They slide back and forth at least 1/8 inch. Do I need to add shims between the wheel and steering block???? On a carpet knife I have they seem to narrow also. Any help would be gratly appreciated.
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