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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 02-03-2005, 12:22 PM   #10756
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opps
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Old 02-03-2005, 01:02 PM   #10757
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Default 12th scale foams...

I currently have TRCs on my 12L4...

Just wondering if Parma or Jaco's have the same offset or which is closest to the TRCs.

I want to switch tires since parma/jaco are cheaper and easier to get at the track.
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Old 02-03-2005, 01:04 PM   #10758
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Quote:
Originally posted by Dr Smooth
Jon it depend on the type of motor your using too for the 30-40 rollout, with a mod motor your rollout would be different so don't base the 30-40 rollout on all motor's.

Rasta
Thanks Rasta, but you know me, lol i dont run mod, lol. I only run stock and maybe 19t.

See you at the Trophy Race Todd, if you going.

Jon
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Old 02-03-2005, 01:05 PM   #10759
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Default Re: 12th scale foams...

Quote:
Originally posted by Nexus
I currently have TRCs on my 12L4...

Just wondering if Parma or Jaco's have the same offset or which is closest to the TRCs.

I want to switch tires since parma/jaco are cheaper and easier to get at the track.
The Parmas are great, i havent had any real problems. Jaco rims tend to break if you get hit hard, but overall the jaco foam is excellent.
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Old 02-03-2005, 01:23 PM   #10760
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The Parma tires are supposed to be the same as the TRC's. Jaco's have a different offset than TRC/Parma tires.

For the fronts, you will still use your flanged bearings, just like with TRC.
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Old 02-03-2005, 01:37 PM   #10761
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Nexus, im running parmas on my 12l4, and in the rear you have to do some creative shimming cause of the offset, dont know if its the same with the TRC tires.

i ran out of shims when i was trying to get my tires to fit nicely, so i ended up dremeling just a hard off the bottom plate to get them to fit, im sure my rear width is not as wide as it could be, but once i get a decent stock motor i should be able to finish closer to you LOL
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Old 02-03-2005, 02:06 PM   #10762
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Quote:
Originally posted by primusblowsgoat
Nexus, im running parmas on my 12l4, and in the rear you have to do some creative shimming cause of the offset, dont know if its the same with the TRC tires.

i ran out of shims when i was trying to get my tires to fit nicely, so i ended up dremeling just a hard off the bottom plate to get them to fit, im sure my rear width is not as wide as it could be, but once i get a decent stock motor i should be able to finish closer to you LOL
They are the same as the TRC's.
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Old 02-03-2005, 02:18 PM   #10763
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oops.
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Last edited by CypressMidWest; 02-04-2005 at 11:48 AM.
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Old 02-03-2005, 02:39 PM   #10764
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Quote:
Originally posted by CypressMidWest
They are the same as the TRC's.
Thanks for all the replys...I'll be sure to just pick up parma's to replace my TRCs.

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primus - i should be back next weds. if you want to run more 12th.
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Old 02-03-2005, 04:18 PM   #10765
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is it worthy to pay extra 50buck for kawada than to get Yok yrx 12??? and is crc3.1 still a worthy car?
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Old 02-03-2005, 04:56 PM   #10766
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The problem you will run into w/ the Kawada is that it only accepts Kawada rims . Tires will be a problem.

http://stores.evolutionhobbies.com/Detail.bok?no=41
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Old 02-03-2005, 05:00 PM   #10767
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Quote:
Originally posted by EngTat
is it worthy to pay extra 50buck for kawada than to get Yok yrx 12??? and is crc3.1 still a worthy car?
I run the Yokomo YRX12 outdoors on asphalt as it has the widest battery spacing. Wide battery spacing allows for more weight transfer to the outside wheels in corners for better grip. The YRX12 also has a thinner chassis which also makes it a good asphalt car.

If you are going to be racing on carpet then I would consider the Speed Merchant Rev. 4, the CRC Carpet Knife 3.2R or the Hara AH12 conversion. The AH12 could prove to be problematic in obtaining parts.
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Old 02-03-2005, 05:20 PM   #10768
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Default Problem with L3

OK, I have two problems here. Any advice or help would be appreciated. And sorry about the long post. I'm at the point of losing interest in 1/12th scale I'm so frustrated right now.

What is the smallest rear tire diameter that everyone usually considers to be at the point the tires need to be replaced? My problem is that when my rear tires get below 1.8" in diameter the car really start to fall on it's face and slow down. Everyone at our track runs around a 1.6 rollout, but no matter what I adjust my rollout to the car never gets any better. But as soon as I put new tires on the car is right back to normal. I start my rear tires at 1.9" diameter. I'd like to think I can get some more life out of them and not have to replace them every .1" of wear

Oh, and since someone may ask. I'm running a monster stock, 767 brushes, with green and red springs.

My second problem I'm in the market for a new car but have struck out everyplace I've looked. I'm leaning towards the Speedmerchant Rev4, and thought I was actually getting one sent to me. But I was refunded my money after three weeks of the place I ordered it from teling me it would be in stock in a few days, and then finally admitting they had no idea when they would be getting any kits. Where is everyone ordering them from? Also we are going to be running 1/12th scale 19T outdoors on asphalt this summer, would the Rev4 car be a good choice for this?

Last edited by Bad-Andy; 02-03-2005 at 05:37 PM.
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Old 02-03-2005, 05:38 PM   #10769
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Default Re: Problem with L3

Quote:
Originally posted by Bad-Andy
OK, I have two problems here. Any advice or help would be appreciated. And sorry about the long post. I'm at the point of losing interest in 1/12th scale I'm so frustrated right now.

What is the smallest rear tire diameter that everyone usually considers to be at the point the tires need to be replaced? My problem is that when my rear tires get below 1.8" in diameter the car really start to fall on it's face and slow down. Everyone at our track runs around a 1.6 rollout, but no matter what I adjust my rollout to the car never gets any better. But as soon as I put new tires on the car is right back to normal. I start my rear tires at 1.9" diameter. I'd like to think I can get some more life out of them and not have to replace them every .1" of wear

My second problem I'm in the market for a new car but have struck out everyplace I've looked. I'm leaning towards the Speedmerchant Rev4, and thought I was actually getting one sent to me. But I was refunded my money after three weeks of the place I ordered it from teling me it would be in stock in a few days, and then finally admitting they had no idea when they would be getting any kits. Where is everyone ordering them from? Also we are going to be running 1/12th scale 19T outdoors on asphalt this summer, would the Rev4 car be a good choice for this?
Rollout is the overall gear ratio combining your pinion/spur ratio and tire diameter (actually, circumference). If you are adjusting the pinion/spur size properly as the tire size gets smaller the car should go the same speed.

I've found that the best way to buy Speedmerchant cars is to buy directly from the website (Speedmerchant.com). The cars are in high demand so they sell out pretty quickly when they come available. The latest batch came available a few days ago, so get on it!

The Rev 4 is my first choice for a carpet car but not for asphalt. It will work, of course, but is best on carpet. Some of the factory guys will tell you that it works best any time anywhere, and will walk your dog to boot, but they are the factory guys (yeah, Cypress, I'm talkin about you! )
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Old 02-03-2005, 05:53 PM   #10770
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Default Re: Problem with L3

Quote:
Originally posted by Bad-Andy
OK, I have two problems here. Any advice or help would be appreciated. And sorry about the long post. I'm at the point of losing interest in 1/12th scale I'm so frustrated right now.

What is the smallest rear tire diameter that everyone usually considers to be at the point the tires need to be replaced? My problem is that when my rear tires get below 1.8" in diameter the car really start to fall on it's face and slow down. Everyone at our track runs around a 1.6 rollout, but no matter what I adjust my rollout to the car never gets any better. But as soon as I put new tires on the car is right back to normal. I start my rear tires at 1.9" diameter. I'd like to think I can get some more life out of them and not have to replace them every .1" of wear

Oh, and since someone may ask. I'm running a monster stock, 767 brushes, with green and red springs.

My second problem I'm in the market for a new car but have struck out everyplace I've looked. I'm leaning towards the Speedmerchant Rev4, and thought I was actually getting one sent to me. But I was refunded my money after three weeks of the place I ordered it from teling me it would be in stock in a few days, and then finally admitting they had no idea when they would be getting any kits. Where is everyone ordering them from? Also we are going to be running 1/12th scale 19T outdoors on asphalt this summer, would the Rev4 car be a good choice for this?
Like ODPurple says, you have to keep adjusting your pinion/spur combo as the tire decreases in size to maintain optimal roll out and lap times. Your car may also be "falling off" due to ride height. Make sure you always maintain the optimum ride height. For me it's 3.5mm in the front and 3.0mm in the rear. Our track requires a minimum ride height of 3.0mm and I like the way my car handles with a slight rearward rake, thus the 3.5mm in the front. You adjust your ride height to compensate for tire ware in the rear with the rear axle ride height adjusters and in the front with thin shims or washers. When you get below the 3.0 minimum ride height, your car might allow the outside edges of your chassis to come in contact with the racing surface therefore scrubbing off speed in the corners. Especially on T bar cars due to the batteries being further from the center line of the car.

Also try a green spring on the positive and a blue spring on the neg on your Monster Stock motor.
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