R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

    Hide Wikipost
Old 10-28-2016, 12:43 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: 1/12 forum
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: fenton06
This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

Print Wikipost

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 02-01-2005, 06:49 PM   #10696
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 814
Default Re: Cutting the rear axle

Quote:
Originally posted by revzalot
Has anyone cut a little bit off the rear axle to reduce rotational mass on their l4? If so how much to cut off?
If you want to take rotational mass out of the rear of your 1/12th you can do the following:

Replace the axle with a hollow Niftech axle.
Replace the diff washers with Niftech Rocket Rings.
Replace the diff balls with ceramic diff balls.
Replace all of the bearings with ceramic bearings.
Replace the wheel screws with titanium wheel screws from Lunsford
Use an IRS left side clamping hub.
Use Parma or TRC wheels as they are the lightest without giving up strength or straightness.
Crashby is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-01-2005, 06:59 PM   #10697
Tech Fanatic
 
revzalot's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Nor * Cal
Posts: 959
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default Re: Re: Cutting the rear axle

Quote:
Originally posted by Crashby
If you want to take rotational mass out of the rear of your 1/12th you can do the following:

Replace the axle with a hollow Niftech axle.
Replace the diff washers with Niftech Rocket Rings.
Replace the diff balls with ceramic diff balls.
Replace all of the bearings with ceramic bearings.
Replace the wheel screws with titanium wheel screws from Lunsford
Use an IRS left side clamping hub.
Use Parma or TRC wheels as they are the lightest without giving up strength or straightness.
I'm starting to like Niftech. Thanks for the info.
__________________
www.revzalotmotorsports.com
revzalot is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-02-2005, 11:03 AM   #10698
Tech Master
 
Merciless's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: UK
Posts: 1,027
Send a message via ICQ to Merciless
Default

Sorry i'm sure this has been asked a thousand times but i have tried a search and can't find any thing.

Can someone give be a base gearing mm/rollout for a 19t and 3x9
Open track, carpet, med bite.

Only ball park will be great

thanks
Merciless is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-02-2005, 11:06 AM   #10699
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 547
Default

which 19 turn

very, very different different between a Chameleon2 and a Reedy QM

even very different for a 9x3 depending on make/model
barrys is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-02-2005, 11:19 AM   #10700
Tech Addict
 
JohnB's Avatar
R/C Tech Charter Subscriber
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Oregon City, Or
Posts: 674
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default Damper Tubes

Question for you Damper Tube experts.
I've seen pictures of the MS2.2 cars with Bolink tubes. They appear to have some adjustment in length, right? Is stock when you buy the Bolink tubes and is this the correct part no.?
HK-0007 found here:
http://www.hyperdriveracing.com/12scale/hk1000.cfm

Is that the only brand that has that length adjustment?

Thanks and take care
john
JohnB is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-02-2005, 11:40 AM   #10701
Tech Master
 
Merciless's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: UK
Posts: 1,027
Send a message via ICQ to Merciless
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by barrys
which 19 turn

very, very different different between a Chameleon2 and a Reedy QM

even very different for a 9x3 depending on make/model
Thanks for answering but as i tried to explain all i'm trying to get here is an idea so as not to massively over gear
Merciless is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-02-2005, 11:51 AM   #10702
Tech Elite
 
litespeed-dom's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Beaverton, Oregon
Posts: 3,990
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default Re: Damper Tubes

Quote:
Originally posted by JohnB
Question for you Damper Tube experts.
I've seen pictures of the MS2.2 cars with Bolink tubes. They appear to have some adjustment in length, right? Is stock when you buy the Bolink tubes and is this the correct part no.?
HK-0007 found here:
http://www.hyperdriveracing.com/12scale/hk1000.cfm

Is that the only brand that has that length adjustment?

Thanks and take care
john
John,

First thing, Bolink tubes are no longer available since the company went under. Hyperdrive now uses cut down version of the CRC tubes.

When we do our "adjustment" on the tubes, we are simply unthreading the tubes away from the ball end, in order to put preload on the springs.

Dom
__________________
Team Kyosho America - Team Br00d Racing - Team R/C Plus - GQ Racing Tyres - Slapmaster Tools - FSX Racing
litespeed-dom is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-02-2005, 12:17 PM   #10703
Tech Addict
 
JohnB's Avatar
R/C Tech Charter Subscriber
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Oregon City, Or
Posts: 674
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Thanks Dom, that's what I was wondering. I've been eyeing up the Mini T turnbuckles. I think I can make them work. The Mini T ball studs work good also, except they are 2.5 mm, but they are available in about every hobby store now.

John
JohnB is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-02-2005, 12:25 PM   #10704
Tech Master
 
snopro31's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: yorkton sask
Posts: 1,610
Trader Rating: 33 (100%+)
Default

I am looking for some pics and info on the tub chassis 1/12th that is being raced now. as well any sites for conversions and stuff like that for 12th's would be nice to check out
snopro31 is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 02-02-2005, 12:33 PM   #10705
Tech Fanatic
 
RobS's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Chatham, Ontario
Posts: 806
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by snopro31
I am looking for some pics and info on the tub chassis 1/12th that is being raced now.
This thread has all you need to know about that car...

SLAPMASTER - 1/12th MS2.2
__________________
Rob Say
Action Hobbies Kingsville
"In racing you never really lose. You either win, or learn."
RobS is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-02-2005, 12:34 PM   #10706
Tech Elite
 
litespeed-dom's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Beaverton, Oregon
Posts: 3,990
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by snopro31
I am looking for some pics and info on the tub chassis 1/12th that is being raced now. as well any sites for conversions and stuff like that for 12th's would be nice to check out
If you are looking for the Slapmaster MS2.2, here is the thread for it.

SLAPMASTER - 1/12th MS2.2

According to Brian, the inventor of MS2.2, website is work in progress and should be up soon. He'll be at the 'Birds this year with the MS2.2.

Dom
__________________
Team Kyosho America - Team Br00d Racing - Team R/C Plus - GQ Racing Tyres - Slapmaster Tools - FSX Racing
litespeed-dom is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-02-2005, 01:21 PM   #10707
Tech Master
 
nmt6789's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Long Island NY
Posts: 1,292
Send a message via AIM to nmt6789
Default

Does anybody know what would cause the diff nut on my l4 to come loose all the time? The nut isnt stripped because I changed it a few times and the only solution I have found was to put a nother nut on the prevent it from backing out
nmt6789 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-02-2005, 01:35 PM   #10708
Tech Elite
 
litespeed-dom's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Beaverton, Oregon
Posts: 3,990
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by nmt6789
Does anybody know what would cause the diff nut on my l4 to come loose all the time? The nut isnt stripped because I changed it a few times and the only solution I have found was to put a nother nut on the prevent it from backing out
Is it a plastic nut or the good blue AE aluminum nut?

Dom
__________________
Team Kyosho America - Team Br00d Racing - Team R/C Plus - GQ Racing Tyres - Slapmaster Tools - FSX Racing
litespeed-dom is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-02-2005, 01:35 PM   #10709
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: England (UK)
Posts: 440
Default

You could use a very small amount of threadlock on the diff bolt just to keep it from losening.

Chazz
Chazz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-02-2005, 01:40 PM   #10710
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 814
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by nmt6789
Does anybody know what would cause the diff nut on my l4 to come loose all the time? The nut isnt stripped because I changed it a few times and the only solution I have found was to put a nother nut on the prevent it from backing out
Make sure that the metal, threaded set screw, which the nut goes on, is not backing out of the end of the axle. Look very closely for very fine cracks at the end of the axle where the set screw goes in. This will allow the set screw to come loose and what you think is the nut backing of really is the set screw coming out of the end of the axle. When you put a new nut on, it threads the set screw back into the axle only to have the set screw back out under load. I have seen this happen several times.
Crashby is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
New to the forum mig rod Electric Off-Road 1 01-05-2008 05:23 PM
hi i need help and im new to the forum racer4 Rookie Zone 4 01-21-2007 02:37 PM
Why is this forum listed under the On Road Forum? sport10 Onroad Nitro Engine Zone 0 01-11-2007 08:06 AM
Forum Changes... futureal Wisconsin & Illinois Racing 3 10-28-2002 09:26 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 09:38 AM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net

SEO by vBSEO 3.5.0