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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 02-01-2005, 12:34 PM   #10681
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Quote:
Originally posted by CypressMidWest
Pesky T-bars......
Suprisingly enough-in all my spectacular crashes last weekend Ian-I didnt even put a stress mark on my t-bar!!! I was simply amazed!!
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Old 02-01-2005, 12:51 PM   #10682
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so is the thickist t-bar from associated the way to go for carpet or is there a different manufacture you guys recomend. i just started with these and i need to stock up on parts



Rob
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Old 02-01-2005, 12:56 PM   #10683
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Quote:
Originally posted by WVRACER
so is the thickist t-bar from associated the way to go for carpet or is there a different manufacture you guys recomend. i just started with these and i need to stock up on parts



Rob
Power push has a new fiberglass t-bar with more choices in thickness adn there is the thick and thin t-bars from Associated. Nothng wrong with them.

So much in 12th is driver preference. YOu can run a thin t-bar on carpet too. Especially on bumpy or wavy tracks or low grip tracks.
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Old 02-01-2005, 12:58 PM   #10684
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Default Powerpush t-plates

These are sweet! More thickness choices too. http://www.teampowerpush.com/catalog.html
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Old 02-01-2005, 01:02 PM   #10685
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Default Re: Powerpush t-plates

Quote:
Originally posted by Jay Boyd
These are sweet! More thickness choices too. http://www.teampowerpush.com/catalog.html
YES THAY ARE! Get up in the .08 range and it really adds a lot of steering. I haven't tried the rear tweak holes yet, but I imagine that will add even more.
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Old 02-01-2005, 01:07 PM   #10686
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Ray i know Tonys stuff is good but is it justified paying the 9.99 vs. the 4.50

also what other parts are needed as in hi replacement stuff

thanks rob
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Old 02-01-2005, 01:16 PM   #10687
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This last weekend was weird. Traction was med-high???? It was Ozite-but only Niftech was being used. I had a thick-tbar, silver center spring, Magenta fronts sauced 3/4, CA on the rear Grey tires and that was just about enough steering. A tad too much when the d/r was too high-as i found oout the hard way one run (BANG!!) But this set-up would normally be undriveable for me! I usually run thin t-bar, green spring and Purple front and Pink or big Grey rears in back in med to med high bite.

wvracer-just get a few rebuild kits for your shock, extra fron springs because in a crash or just over time they lose there strength and collapse. Body posts and the black plastic pillow balls in the arms. Those you want to fit snug-but not binding-but definatley not sloppy. Yu might break a lower arm on occasion, but get the lowered arms to get more life out of you tires. You can buy thin washers or shims (IRS has them in different thickness) to space the arms back-up.

Ray
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Old 02-01-2005, 01:32 PM   #10688
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Default Cutting the rear axle

Has anyone cut a little bit off the rear axle to reduce rotational mass on their l4? If so how much to cut off?
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Old 02-01-2005, 01:35 PM   #10689
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Default Re: Cutting the rear axle

Quote:
Originally posted by revzalot
Has anyone cut a little bit off the rear axle to reduce rotational mass on their l4? If so how much to cut off?
I wouldnt risk damagng the graphite axle. All the weight is in the center-so it takes very little to accelerate it. And trust me-that axle takes some serious abuse-yo dont want to create a stress riser, etc.
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Old 02-01-2005, 01:44 PM   #10690
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Quote:
Originally posted by CypressMidWest
Crashby: Link cars were PREVIOUSLY outshone by T-bar cars in Mod, because link cars tend to be more "free" in the middle of the corner, in mod they would sometimes lose rear traction. Your Rev. 4 has been designed to address those issues, and I've watched them equal or better T-bar cars in Mod. At last years Carpet Nats, Jake Pritchard's car looked AMAZING, as did Brian Jucha's. I'm willing to bet that you'll like it every bit as much, if not more, than the Trinity car in Mod.
I agree with you CypressMidWest. Carpet provides the highest grip out of any surface we can race on. Therefore, you would think that the car with the lowest polar moment would out perform any other car with a higher polar moment. But maybe it has more to do with driver skill and the speed difference between stock and mod. Maybe a T bar car feels lazy or neutral in mod because it has a higher polar moment than a link car which in turn makes it easier to drive for the person with average driving skills. Right now I feel like a T bar car would scrub off so much speed in the corners due to their higher polar moment than a link car, that it could not possible be faster but... I could be all wrong. It will be several days before I get the Reflex 12 built and I think I will try softening up my Rev 4 in the meantime to maybe let the weight transfer more to the outside. Make it think it is a T bar car and see what that does. I still firmly believe that a link car should work better than any other car design on carpet. But that is what testing is all about. Just have to be careful about how much driving skill factors into the results of the test and if the driver is more comfortable with a lazy car vs.: an aggressive car.
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Old 02-01-2005, 01:56 PM   #10691
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thanks Ray i will stock up. still not shure about the 10 buck t-plates but what the heck i'll give them a try. you would not have suggested them if thay where not good.

i went with the irs lower pod plates and threaded king pins and i got the parma threaded stub axels hope these where good choices.


why do the 12th scales use 1/8th diff balls instead of the 3/32 i use in touring. is there a reason or just a prefference

thanks
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Old 02-01-2005, 02:23 PM   #10692
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remember-12th scales came first!! LOoong before Sedans!!
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Old 02-01-2005, 03:01 PM   #10693
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Quote:
Where did you purchase the Teflon tape?
Email Bud at BRP, he has some teflon tape. It works great!
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Old 02-01-2005, 03:06 PM   #10694
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Brian- u making the birds?
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Old 02-01-2005, 04:49 PM   #10695
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Default Re: Re: Cutting the rear axle

Quote:
Originally posted by rayhuang
I wouldnt risk damagng the graphite axle. All the weight is in the center-so it takes very little to accelerate it. And trust me-that axle takes some serious abuse-yo dont want to create a stress riser, etc.
Ok thanks. I'll better stop tweaking the L4 and start racing it.
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