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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 01-31-2005, 05:35 PM   #10651
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I see the hitec servo you said has metal gears and ball bearing. I take it that is a necessity in 1/12? Just curious.
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Old 01-31-2005, 05:40 PM   #10652
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you dont have to have metal gears its jsut nice knowing you dont have to worry about chipped gears the servo savers protect them pretty good the bearings is something to look for they help it to keep smooth all the time.
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Old 01-31-2005, 06:08 PM   #10653
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It seems like these 12th scale racers are only good for indoor winter racing. I have to disagree, they're good all year around. The reason why I got one is because one spanked my nitro 10th scale during warm ups last summer.
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Old 01-31-2005, 06:08 PM   #10654
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Default Re: Re: Batteries

Quote:
Originally posted by revzalot
What's the most effiicient wire length connecting the batteries? Btw, these batteries will be used on a 12L4 and AH12.
As short as possible.
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Old 01-31-2005, 06:12 PM   #10655
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Quote:
Originally posted by Chad_R40
Oh hey Tim....You found me in the right place Sure i'll pick up one of those shocks off you, and you would not happen to have any front threaded axels would you? oh yeah i'll be at Screwz around 6:30 -7:00pm Tues..Damn night school...:-/
I'll see ya there.

I have everything that you could need for a 1/12th scale car. Including axles.

I'll bring some other parts that you will need as spares.

See ya there.

Tim
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Old 01-31-2005, 06:47 PM   #10656
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Quote:
Originally posted by revzalot
It seems like these 12th scale racers are only good for indoor winter racing. I have to disagree, they're good all year around. The reason why I got one is because one spanked my nitro 10th scale during warm ups last summer.
Hehe, I used to think I would get no enjoyment out of onroad, oval, carpet or whatever. I will admit I love my nitro and off road racing the most, but this stuff is a blast too. I started out recently doing oval on a flat carpet track. It really is a great time. I think it'll even help my offroad driving b/c of the concentration you have to keep for 50 or 60 laps. And the actual car to car, bumping and all that seems like there's more in oval than offroad.

So now I want to turn right as well as left and picked up the 1/12 scaler. Mostly b/c I want to run every week, and oval is every other. So now I'll just swap weeks of what I race.

The way I look at it is I don't care what I'm racing as long as I'm racing. Without the competitive feeling I wouldn't even run my cars. Some people play softball, some party all the time, I just wrench on my cars and race. Great hobby!!!
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Old 02-01-2005, 01:31 AM   #10657
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Quote:
Originally posted by jbrow1

The way I look at it is I don't care what I'm racing as long as I'm racing. Without the competitive feeling I wouldn't even run my cars. Some people play softball, some party all the time, I just wrench on my cars and race. Great hobby!!!
Amen.....!
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Old 02-01-2005, 01:41 AM   #10658
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Default 12l4 project completed

I didn't know it took lots of work for such a small kit. Just want to say thanks for providing great info at this forum. Here's an incomplete list of what I did:
o sanded chassis and plates and ca glued the edges
o sanded pod plates and front lower arms for symmetrical height
o sanded the top plate for silky smooth surface
o sanded the friction plates to be sure they're flat and stuck on some teflon tape
o grinded the t bar to push the motor a little more forward
o countersunk the chassis holes
o polished almost all the metal parts
o blueprinted rear axles and plates; they're very smooth now
Attached Images
File Type: jpg revz12l4.jpg (162.9 KB, 218 views)
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Old 02-01-2005, 05:07 AM   #10659
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Default Re: 12l4 project completed

Quote:
Originally posted by revzalot
I didn't know it took lots of work for such a small kit. Just want to say thanks for providing great info at this forum. Here's an incomplete list of what I did:
o sanded chassis and plates and ca glued the edges
o sanded pod plates and front lower arms for symmetrical height
o sanded the top plate for silky smooth surface
o sanded the friction plates to be sure they're flat and stuck on some teflon tape
o grinded the t bar to push the motor a little more forward
o countersunk the chassis holes
o polished almost all the metal parts
o blueprinted rear axles and plates; they're very smooth now
Revz your L4 is looking SWEET! Kinda like Masami? lol

Whats that white stuff under your damper plates??
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Old 02-01-2005, 05:17 AM   #10660
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Default Re: Re: 12l4 project completed

Quote:
Originally posted by JDXray
Revz your L4 is looking SWEET! Kinda like Masami? lol

Whats that white stuff under your damper plates??
That's the teflon tape he described, to reduce friction.
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Old 02-01-2005, 05:33 AM   #10661
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Let the odyssey begin! (Entries are now open, you have until April 30 so get em in!)

We will have decals ready to go hopefully this week for all the entrants. I will post pics of them when I get the final design work.

Also, the T-shirts are being finalized (with sponsor logos and everything) so hopefully I can post those pics up here as well.

All I have left to say is...


THE US PAN CAR CHAMPIONSHIPS ARE COMING...ARE YOU READY?
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Old 02-01-2005, 05:43 AM   #10662
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came up with another question for you guys. man the more i dig the more i find on these 12th scales

spring steel t-plates yes no maybe

is there any bennifit to having this option or should one stick with the fiberglass


thanks
Rob
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Old 02-01-2005, 08:59 AM   #10663
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If anyone has it...

Could you email me a .pdf or .jpg of the stock setup on a 12L4?

Thanks.

anthony.isla@gmail.com
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Old 02-01-2005, 09:52 AM   #10664
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Quote:
Originally posted by WVRACER
came up with another question for you guys. man the more i dig the more i find on these 12th scales

spring steel t-plates yes no maybe

is there any bennifit to having this option or should one stick with the fiberglass


thanks
Rob
I like the durability of the spring steel plate, but what I didn't like was the consistancy. I run stock with all 3 screws in the t-plate with the medium and medium stiff ss bar and the car was more consistant lap after lap with the fiberglass. I could turn some faster laptimes with the medium-firm bar though.

What I also noticed is that I left a couple of spare ones in my glove box and they rusted. That made for an interesting look.

It's still up in the air, but I only broke 2 fiberglass t-plates this season so far and the ss plate is around $30. I raced at least 2-3 times a week and practiced 2 days a week so there was a lot of running on those plates.

Tim
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Old 02-01-2005, 10:11 AM   #10665
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ok thanks i guess i will stick with the fiber there real cheap comparable thanks for the info


Rob
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