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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 01-31-2005, 09:45 AM   #10636
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I don't understand why you'd have to remove the shock at all to change batteries.....
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Old 01-31-2005, 09:57 AM   #10637
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i am using an xray lower shock mount on the antenna side. you do have to shave a little off the ball end, but it works great. uses a 3mm hex to take the shock off.

Quote:
Originally posted by WVRACER
speaking of center shocks has anyone can up with a way to easly get it off to change batteries.

on my l4 i have to pop the shock every time i change batts

any suggestions

Rob
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Old 01-31-2005, 09:58 AM   #10638
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Quote:
Originally posted by vtl1180ny
I don't understand why you'd have to remove the shock at all to change batteries.....
some of us hate a lot of wire for our saddle packs, so mine are not long enough to go around the shock.
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Old 01-31-2005, 10:01 AM   #10639
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Quote:
Originally posted by theisgroup
some of us hate a lot of wire for our saddle packs, so mine are not long enough to go around the shock.
Gotcha.... I tried to wire up a pack with all bars and no wire on my CK, just couldn't squeeze it under the shock.... So I understand fully now....
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Old 01-31-2005, 10:03 AM   #10640
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Quote:
Originally posted by vtl1180ny
Gotcha.... I tried to wire up a pack with all bars and no wire on my CK, just couldn't squeeze it under the shock.... So I understand fully now....
Ya know this gives me an idea!! I have race packs and practice packs. I think I am going to put a long jumper wire on all my practice packs and save my poor ballcups the wear and tear of being popped on and off during practice.

I'll keep my short jumpers for my race packs.

Ray
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Old 01-31-2005, 10:07 AM   #10641
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Quote:
Originally posted by rayhuang
Ya know this gives me an idea!! I have race packs and practice packs. I think I am going to put a long jumper wire on all my practice packs and save my poor ballcups the wear and tear of being popped on and off during practice.

I'll keep my short jumpers for my race packs.

Ray
ray,

why don't you just replace with the xray parts, then you can just use a 3mm hex to take them off? I am sure you have plenty of these laying around.

358010 composite frame shock parts
303240 ball universal 5.8mm hex
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Old 01-31-2005, 10:15 AM   #10642
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Default Batteries

I've been doing mine like this. Pos. on left with the wire directly from battery to motor than tie the ESC wire to that.
This is an old practice pack and the wire is way to long, but it's the only picture I have at work.

Works the same way on a 12L3 or L4 chassis.

take care
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Old 01-31-2005, 10:15 AM   #10643
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yea thats what i was thinking if you did some type of captured end with a nut. would this hamper the way the shock is suspose to work. i was thinking of somthing like the associated tc shocks a bolt through the bottom a nut to hold it it place then a captured end on the shock amd a nut to hold it on


any ideas guys will this work


Rob
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Old 01-31-2005, 10:24 AM   #10644
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Quote:
Originally posted by WVRACER
yea thats what i was thinking if you did some type of captured end with a nut. would this hamper the way the shock is suspose to work. i was thinking of somthing like the associated tc shocks a bolt through the bottom a nut to hold it it place then a captured end on the shock amd a nut to hold it on


any ideas guys will this work


Rob
i think you may get some binding because the tc3 shock mount does not have enough angle of movement. and hte 12l shock has such a steep angle. Some of the guys run this put have to put a cone washer under the lower shock mount to raise it just enough where it does not bind.
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Old 01-31-2005, 11:17 AM   #10645
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I haven't played with the shock a lot personally, but the people I've talked to who have did not like with the shock layed down any flatter.
theisgroup is right, a captured end by itself doesn't offer much movement because the plastic hits, but if you put it on top of the cone it would. If your shock mounts on the antenna mount it would be easy to cut it down, add a cone and keep the same shock angle.

take care
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Old 01-31-2005, 12:08 PM   #10646
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Default Re: Batteries

Quote:
Originally posted by JohnB
I've been doing mine like this. Pos. on left with the wire directly from battery to motor than tie the ESC wire to that.
This is an old practice pack and the wire is way to long, but it's the only picture I have at work.

Works the same way on a 12L3 or L4 chassis.

take care
john
What's the most effiicient wire length connecting the batteries? Btw, these batteries will be used on a 12L4 and AH12.
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Old 01-31-2005, 12:13 PM   #10647
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the most "effiicient" length would be the shortest possible. The longer the length of the wire is more loss in current.
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Old 01-31-2005, 12:17 PM   #10648
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I don't remember what the length was for the cross over wire, 2-1/2" is sticking in my head for some reason. The batteries were originally soldered for a 12l4. I think it puts the positive on the other side car in that configuration but it works fine. No idea on a Hara chassis.
I redid all my batteries this way so they would fit in the discharge tray. If you use a tray, make sure you assemble them so the positive is in the right place.

take care
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Old 01-31-2005, 05:16 PM   #10649
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Hi guys. Gas truck racer here getting into electrics for the winter. Got a 12L3 coming, and was wodering what is a good servo to run in it? I'm assuming smaller is better, but how small to go? Also wondering what is a good pinion/spur combo to run with either a monster stock pro, or p2k2 pro? They race with 4 cell 3300's for eight minute mains here.
Jeff
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Old 01-31-2005, 05:20 PM   #10650
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if your on a buget get the hitec hs 225mg its only about 35 dollars and its .14 at 4.8 volts if you want to go all out the jr z3550 works real good for mod its pretty small and good speed its coreless but its around 65 dollars
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