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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 06-26-2002, 03:46 PM   #1051
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Shrek- Thanks for the kind words but I'm just a normal guy who doesn't really lay any smack down. Now James Arnold, Brian Jucha, Timmy H. and Bob Schoenoe...they lay the smack down.

Jason- What's up bud? How are things going? Most of the racing during the summer in the area is outdoor parking lot. Last year Jucha and I ran our 12ths a couple of weeks before he went to the Outdoor Nats at Speedworld but I haven't done anything since. Pretty much the 12th's run from Sept.-April on Carpet. The nice thing is that the carpet track is open during the week so I can run practice if I want and I did some testing about a month or so ago which was fun.

DS- hope you get to race soon.

Kevin, Kevin, Kevin.....Ohhhh boy here comes trouble. Now you weren't suppose to tell anyone about the Tiger coaching position and all of the money I make doing it. LOL! You almost had me bust a gut there. If you play you should hook up with James and I within the next 2-3 weeks. I am actually going to get a few rounds in now that some business meetings and issues have been taken care of. Bob may play with us soon which will be fun because he's a low handicapper unlike myself the hacker.
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Old 06-26-2002, 04:16 PM   #1052
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Shrek- Noticed the question about Roll Centers with regards to traction rolling on the other thread. Here is what I have found through the last racing season.

Raising R.C. will make the car initiate faster but actually provides less grip at that end of the car. Lowering the RC will slow initiation some but actually improve the grip at that end of the car. Now this is assuming that the CG is low and that you aren't saucing the tires for too long (at big carpet races where
you can see a black groove more than 10min is too long).


This is the reason why most fast racers seem to raise the RC for big races even if they run lower RC's at their home track where the traction usually isn't very high by comparison. IE. Big Race Traction =8-10 and most carpet club races=6, while poor grip=4.


By raising the RC it keeps them from traction rolling while keeping the cars easy to drive. Now some cars have more front grip than others so for the ones that have less they may actually lower the front RC some to help the car's corner speed by keeping the front from understeering.

In modified racing the second worse thing you can have after a loose car is a car that pushes. Even though it's eaiser to drive you lose too much time in the corners often because of the extra time used to slow down enough to take a good line.

So to keep from traction rolling raise the front RC and if the rear end is loose you can soften it or lower the rear RC. Getting a good balance is the key at big races along with camber gain and reactive caster setups.
Hope this helps.
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Old 06-26-2002, 05:02 PM   #1053
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Hummmmm.....Dave "Da Tiger" Arnold......thats got a ring to it. No I dont play golf Im not that old yet that I need to do something as pointless and chasing a little ball around a nicely cut lawn.

And yes Da Tiger has been knowen to Lay it down so to speak.....

Anywho.....see ya when it gets colder out
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Old 06-28-2002, 05:48 PM   #1054
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Man-o-man.....i dont check in here 1 day, and ya'll let it fall off the page........TTT.
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Old 06-28-2002, 10:39 PM   #1055
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I heard that a lot of 12L3 racers are running the really old fixed front suspension on their cars. A lot of guys had their cars like this at Cleveland last year. Is it better for carpet?
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Old 06-28-2002, 10:45 PM   #1056
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Yea i found that some like the old AE front ends or the one Buds makes.
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Last edited by Taz_S; 06-28-2002 at 10:49 PM.
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Old 06-28-2002, 10:52 PM   #1057
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Thanks Kev, Hey are you sure you're not 35 and only look 25??? I think you would do nicely chasing balls around well cut lawns. LOL

AM- The old style front end due to it's lighter weight lowers the Roll Center (RC) so that more steering occurs and it can also be more consistent vs. the Assoc. Strut front end. Especially for cars like the Rev.3 and Carpet Knife due to their unique weight distribution and rear suspension setup they seem to benefit more from the old style front end. Things to watch for though are the eventual "warpage" of the blocks due to use which will change caster/camber in relation to each side and what you set it at. In fact you have to initially measure and adjust with shim material to get both sides close or the same due to mold tolerances.

Also, the old front end while less expensive is more vunerable to breakage than the Assoc. Strut and you don't have as much incremental adjustment with the old style front end. Finally, you also have to use bigger front tires on the old style front end (especially on some of the T-bar cars) and this can mean greater expense AND a little more nervous car when the grip comes up at big races. Hope this helps.

DS- heah I know what you mean. UP^^^
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Old 06-28-2002, 11:13 PM   #1058
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I am new to 1/12th. What are the ideal sizes for carpet racing with an RC12L3? What axle cams should I use? I have purple fronts and grey rears.
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Old 06-29-2002, 12:08 AM   #1059
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AM- I don't know about ideal sizes and different cars seem to work better with different sizes. ie: I have heard that at least some Rev.3 owners like to use bigger tires than say Trinity or 12L3 cars. Now this is probably more driver to driver than anything else but it shows the point. ALSO, running for fun at practice or at your local club vs. running at a big race are three different things. At big races where the traction tends to be high in comparison to just about any other situation tire size and the amount of time you leave your traction compound on can be 40% of getting your car to handle. Whereas in practice on the average practice night with only decent grip by comparison larger tires may be preferred due to the increased grip they would give vs. smaller tires. Club races probably depend more on how serious you are that day and how serious the competion is that day.

With that said my advise would be to start out with Gray Compound Rears and Purple Compound Fronts for Carpet and Pink Compound Rears and Purple Compound fronts for asphalt. These work respectively for just about every track in their category but that doesn't mean this is all that is used. Often guys will use Magenta or 35's for the front which give the car some extra steering but also seem to smooth it out some and add a little corner speed. These are my favorites, although for practice and club racing I tend to use purples since they last longer and I have more of them.

Concerning rear ride height axle cams for out of the package new rear tires (2.2") I would use number three or number two down. For rear tires in the 1.96"-1.90" range I would use axle cam number one down. For rear tires less than 1.88"-1.80' I would use axle cam number four down. Notice that the lower the tire the more I lower the axle which raises the rear end to accomodate. That's why the axle cams face down (hole at the bottom and most of the cam plastic point upwards).

For the front you can use the tires out of the package if you want. Generally, we run front tires from 1.75"-1.66" although You Don't Have To so don't let anyone tell you that you Must True them down. For the Assoc. Strut front end this is a good general spec and you should have no washers underneath the front suspension lower arms. For the Old Style Assoc. Front end you should have no shims other than your caster/camber shims and the thin paper shim you may need to add for equalizing both sides adjustments. For that front end your sizes will be more like 1.78"-1.71". On the Trinity front end I am finding that a couple of washers totaling a little less in height than the standard ones from the kit works really well with the similar range as the Assoc. Strut.

In general for bumpy tracks larger tires are used to absorb the bumps and give better clearance and on smoother or higher grip tracks smaller tires are used to aid corner speed and smooth steering out respectively. Hope this helps.
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Old 06-29-2002, 12:15 AM   #1060
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Oopps- Made some grammatical/"typo" mistakes.
Should be - "competition". Also, should be "...this doesn't mean that they are the only ones (compounds) used". And give should be "...gives the car some extra..."

Oh boy I think I going to go read one of my golf magazines now...LOL
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Old 06-29-2002, 01:35 AM   #1061
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Default Corally SP12M

Anyone out there really know their way around the Corally SP12M cars? I'm new to 1/12 scale overall...but especially new to the Corally. I've just recently picked one up and have run it a couple of times now in the parking lot. I really like the car...very cool stuff. We'll likely start carrying the car in stock if I can raise enough local interest in 1/12 scale. Anyway, the Florida State Series runs 6-cell w/stock motor and that's what I intend to run. My car was originally a 4-cell car but I installed the 6-cell Carbon conversion kit knowing that was what I better get used to. So if anyone can help point me in the right direction with this thing I would certainly appreciate it. My main class in racing is Stock Touring (Schumacher Mission), but I figure if I can drive this 1/12 scale at least average then it will improve my Touring racing as well.

Thanks everyone.
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Old 06-29-2002, 01:27 PM   #1062
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Quote:
Originally posted by AdrianM
I am new to 1/12th. What are the ideal sizes for carpet racing with an RC12L3? What axle cams should I use? I have purple fronts and grey rears.
You might want to find a RC12LC chass to run on the rug. It dose not flex as much as the 12L3.

If you want to spend the money i would go is the rear axle kit from IRS.

I a little bit more weight but it alot smother and alot easyer to work on.
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Old 06-30-2002, 04:05 PM   #1063
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How did everyones racing go this weekend????
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Old 07-01-2002, 06:34 PM   #1064
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Hi-d-ho buckaroos.......sup ya'll.......TTT
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Old 07-01-2002, 06:48 PM   #1065
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I TQ'd in 6 cell Stock and finished 2nd.
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