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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 01-30-2005, 12:14 PM   #10606
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Fatdoggy thanks for the info. what kind of motor spray do you recommend
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Old 01-30-2005, 12:46 PM   #10607
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Quote:
Originally posted by Switch Blade
I did a little research on the mike lufaso site and he said that if you lay the servo down you can introduce bump steer. And after i tried it, i got a little bit of bump in. I think his site then said to add spacers or something, im assuming on the ball studs. Does anyone know if this would work to eliminate it? I really would like to use my servo layed down because now there is room to mount a reciever pack right down the middle of the chassis to obtain a little better side to side weight distribution. All i need to do is have my friend machine me some servo mounts because servo tape doesnt seem like it would hold up to 8 minutes of hard racing. Anyone have any thoughts ideas or comments?
Putting shims underneath the ball studs do work to take bump steer out. If you want to save weight, just shoe-goo the servo onto the chassis, no servo tape, no servo mount.

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Old 01-30-2005, 01:10 PM   #10608
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Quote:
Originally posted by cyrrus
Fatdoggy thanks for the info. what kind of motor spray do you recommend
It was reedy motor spray. We had the Mid atlantic carpet clash in MD yesterday and I spent the whole day battling with too much rear traction. After it was all over I figured I'd try cleaning the tires and run a practice run, the car was F'n money with the tires cleaned off and then traction compound applied for a few minutes. I wish I'd tried it before the main. Apparently everybody but me knows about the cleaning tires with motor spray trick. I just made it to the A main in last spot with my first run of the day(lower traction) by the second heat my car had turned to crap and by the main I just spent the 8 minutes getting out of peoples way. My tires did'nt go down in diameter the whole day, a friends tires got bigger through out the day as they sucked up compound. At least I know how to deal with it in the future.

Last edited by fatdoggy; 01-30-2005 at 05:04 PM.
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Old 01-30-2005, 02:00 PM   #10609
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Man...I'm really looking forward to racing 1/12th as touring has gotten a bit insane lately.

Reading this thread reminds me that I still have alot of new stuff to learn. Thanks for the tip Fatdoggy!
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Old 01-30-2005, 02:40 PM   #10610
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Ran 12'th mod last night at SoCal. Was a BLAST - finally, the car ran great. Didn't have a lot of speed, but was able to put down decent laps.

Had a new servo (borrowed a KO digital) that was supposed to be the same as the 9602 that I've been using - but it felt WAY faster - had to adjust my hand but was FUN.

Qual'd 2nd, but in the main, the top motor mount screw came loose so, while I didn't screw up my spur gear (somehow. . .) I didn't finish.

We're really gonna try and get the class going at SoCal. . .
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Old 01-30-2005, 02:45 PM   #10611
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What do you like, dislike and what would you change about your 1/12 car?
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Old 01-30-2005, 02:49 PM   #10612
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Thanks AdrianM lazyboy and wes for all the help. Ive noticed that it is very hard to install and remove my rear ride height adjusters, and the bearings inside the ride height adjusters. Should I remove some of the material so that they slide in and do not need a lot of force to install?
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Old 01-30-2005, 03:14 PM   #10613
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you shoudl want them to fit in their snug you dont want them moving aroudn jsut make sure your bearings are free thats all you should need to worry about but make sure the burrs on them are removed that can give you a little trouble
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Old 01-30-2005, 04:48 PM   #10614
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Hey guys, just got back from practice and my shock keeps like poping out.. aka the piston pops out with all the washers and red seal and all the fluid goes on the battery:-/. i dont know what the cause is... and i notice Hara was using a touring car shock on his car and i was wondering what you all think of using a touring car shock instead of the mini shock..... for me it would be added sucurity it seems.
Any help...
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Old 01-30-2005, 04:50 PM   #10615
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you need a shock rebuild kit the associated shocks tend to do that
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Old 01-30-2005, 04:59 PM   #10616
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Chad - Each time you rebuild the micro shocks you must replace the star clips.

Switch - Irs has some new ride height adjusters out. They are awsome and for $10 you can't go wrong. Each pair drops 1/2mm so you can always get the perfect ride height. They slide right in place and don't bind.

Soviet - Good to see your back on rctech.
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Old 01-30-2005, 05:00 PM   #10617
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Chad if you go to the IRS website Silva makes a shock for the 12th scale that screws(top of cap) on like a touring car shock or offroad shock
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Old 01-30-2005, 05:27 PM   #10618
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Quote:
Originally posted by Chad_R40
Hey guys, just got back from practice and my shock keeps like poping out.. aka the piston pops out with all the washers and red seal and all the fluid goes on the battery:-/. i dont know what the cause is... and i notice Hara was using a touring car shock on his car and i was wondering what you all think of using a touring car shock instead of the mini shock..... for me it would be added sucurity it seems.
Any help...
Your best bet would be to get the irs shock not to much money either.
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Old 01-30-2005, 05:27 PM   #10619
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Oh ok. Im goign to look for IRS website right now.
oh yeah.... hust to add my Threaded front axel snapped too.. like it was weak metal... anyone have this problem.
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Old 01-30-2005, 05:27 PM   #10620
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Quote:
Originally posted by fatdoggy
Chad - Each time you rebuild the micro shocks you must replace the star clips.

Switch - Irs has some new ride height adjusters out. They are awsome and for $10 you can't go wrong. Each pair drops 1/2mm so you can always get the perfect ride height. They slide right in place and don't bind.

Soviet - Good to see your back on rctech.
Ya I saw the new ride height adjusters on their web site and am planning on getting them very soon, along with the big d-ring diff for my l3.
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