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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 01-29-2005, 11:12 PM   #10591
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switch,

Use the MIP servo tape it is killer, if you want a little added security then CA around the edges.

Chris.
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Old 01-29-2005, 11:17 PM   #10592
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If I want to remove the servo for something wouldnt it be kind of hard if i ca'ed the edge to the chassis? The the MIP tape really stronger than other servo tapes on the market?
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Old 01-29-2005, 11:35 PM   #10593
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It does take some work to get the CA off, you just need to decide if you want to spend the time doing that or are you happy that the servo tape is good.

Yes MIP servo tape is the best, no doubt about it.
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Old 01-29-2005, 11:38 PM   #10594
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Thanks. I'll have to buy some of the MIP servo tape and try it out. If for some reason that doesnt work then i'll just have my freind machine some aluminum servo mounts for me and drill new holes in my l3 chassis
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Old 01-29-2005, 11:52 PM   #10595
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get some shoe goo and shoe goo your servo flat down to the chassis it definatly wont come off that way. you can place it however you want but it works best with the servo horn in the middle. if you push the servo as far forward as you can you will be able to move the weight distrubution forwards a little it will help keep the front of the car a little more sound.
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Old 01-29-2005, 11:56 PM   #10596
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The pros use Shoo-Goo to mount their servos. You can pull the servo off if you really want to and the remaining Shoo-Goo peels off clean from the chassis. Any servo tape is too thick and will make you car have bad bump steer. Shoo-Goo lets the servo sit 1/16" lower and this eliminates most of the bump steer. The bump steer (its bump toe-in) that remains you want to keep as this makes the car turn harder into corners. As you car rolls in a corner the bump toe in will make your outside tire turn in wards more by a few tenths of a degree. This gives you more steering.

To set your car up right for lay down servos you Shoo-Goo the servos or screw it down with the side tabs on the newer servos, get a Kimbrough servo saver and mount the ball studs in it using the holes closest to the servo. If you use the mid or outer holes you will have too much tie rod angle and tons-o-bump toe (very bad). Using the inner holes will make the tie rods parallel to the chassis and this will give just a touch of bump toe-in.

The amount of bump toe in you should have is barely noticeable. If you clearly see it when you compress you front suspension you have too much.

To tune the bump steer or to eliminate it and make your car neutral you add washers under the ball studs on you steering spindles.
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Old 01-30-2005, 12:02 AM   #10597
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Quote:
Originally posted by Switch Blade
I did a little research on the mike lufaso site and he said that if you lay the servo down you can introduce bump steer. And after i tried it, i got a little bit of bump in. I think his site then said to add spacers or something, im assuming on the ball studs. Does anyone know if this would work to eliminate it? I really would like to use my servo layed down because now there is room to mount a reciever pack right down the middle of the chassis to obtain a little better side to side weight distribution. All i need to do is have my friend machine me some servo mounts because servo tape doesnt seem like it would hold up to 8 minutes of hard racing. Anyone have any thoughts ideas or comments?
shoogoo the bitch down , its how everyone else does it..sry for being blunt, had to get the point across, with bump steer it give the car more steering and wount take any out i believe

if you run a reciver pack split it up 3x3 on each side, this will be better then down the middle
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Old 01-30-2005, 01:05 AM   #10598
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Quote:
Originally posted by Switch Blade
I did a little research on the mike lufaso site and he said that if you lay the servo down you can introduce bump steer. And after i tried it, i got a little bit of bump in. I think his site then said to add spacers or something, im assuming on the ball studs. Does anyone know if this would work to eliminate it? I really would like to use my servo layed down because now there is room to mount a reciever pack right down the middle of the chassis to obtain a little better side to side weight distribution. All i need to do is have my friend machine me some servo mounts because servo tape doesnt seem like it would hold up to 8 minutes of hard racing. Anyone have any thoughts ideas or comments?
Look for the M.I.P white two sided tape. Your servo will never come loose again. I ran my car outdoors all summer and now indoors and the servo is still stuck to the car. When it comes time to remove the tape, it comes off in one piece. You can say good buy to servo mounts forever!
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Old 01-30-2005, 02:58 AM   #10599
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Could anyone give a link to the MIP servo tape? It ain't too known in my part of the world (nothern Europe)
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Old 01-30-2005, 03:04 AM   #10600
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Quote:
Originally posted by Jan Larsen
Could anyone give a link to the MIP servo tape? It ain't too known in my part of the world (nothern Europe)
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXAX29&P=0

http://www.miponline.com/servotape.html
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Old 01-30-2005, 03:17 AM   #10601
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Default Hi all 1/12th folk!

Hello 1/12th folk! I just got my 1st 1/12th car today.

Looking forward to running it soon!

Thats all...


EDIT - Oh yeah...It's a modified 12L3 with alot of CRC stuff on it...kind of a hybrid car but very clean and neat. I traded a friend for it and got a really good amount of stuff in addition to the car.

Kinda freaked out about how to setup the lil' bugger though, as I'm from Touring Car land...
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Old 01-30-2005, 11:15 AM   #10602
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Cool!
Print this info out. http://home.sc.rr.com/mlufaso/rc/12l4/index.html

Last edited by Jay Boyd; 01-30-2005 at 12:08 PM.
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Old 01-30-2005, 11:50 AM   #10603
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Hey guy's I was wondering what the best set up. I just pick up a used rc12l4. came with an novak atom and micro airtonic servo. I Still have to pick up a radio and Charger. The club I joined runs really tight technical carpet course. All in Stock. The tires that came with it are Pink and purple. Aren't those mainly for Asphalt. What kind of tires would you recomend. The 4 cell pack he gave me with the car are Orion GP 3300 nimph cells. what would be the best way to get the best peak out of them. is a discharger good for these. Or is that just for Nicad's. I'm sort of new to the whole RC thing. Been out of the lope for about 12 years. So any info would be great.

I'm planning on purchasing a Mx 3 radio with a Novak reciever. Would this be a good starting point. I'm also looking for a decend charger too. So any info would be great.
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Old 01-30-2005, 12:02 PM   #10604
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Note to self. "When traction comes up and your tires stay the same size all day, clean your rear tires with motor spray after each run"
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Old 01-30-2005, 12:11 PM   #10605
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i know this has probably been asked before.

i have an L3 and it came with lots of different tires. some rear wheels are flush with the tire(and those fit fine), and then some have an offset(these rub on the pod). what can i do to fix this, what is used to space them out?

thanks
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