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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 01-29-2005, 10:27 AM   #10576
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why not just run the l4 in its original form?
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Old 01-29-2005, 10:31 AM   #10577
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I duno... i dont lke the T- bars and i just dont think it is a easy car to work on.... or tune the way i like it :-/ IMO
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Old 01-29-2005, 11:21 AM   #10578
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hey bill i ran at the carpet masters series with it buts that finished now for a while, i am going to be running stoneheaven outdoor when the outdoor season starts up again but as for club racing i think kirkaldy does 12th scale on fridays. Your best bet would be to ask gordon from tayracers
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Old 01-29-2005, 12:59 PM   #10579
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[QUOTE]Originally posted by Crashby
Quote:
Originally posted by Chad_R40
Broke my chassis on my Hara 12 today... the fromt body mounts snaped from the chassis. anyone know where i can get a new chassis and how to make this problem go away. [/QUOTE

That is a real bummer. The only way I know to get another chassis is to buy a complete conversion kit. I have never seen just a chassis for sale. All of the extra parts you will probably end up using any way.

Did you sand and CA the edges of the chassis? You might try running some type of nylon bumper. Something that will give.
Are there any special epoxies that can repair chassis' like this?
Will JB Weld work?
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Old 01-29-2005, 04:17 PM   #10580
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Quote:
Originally posted by Chad_R40
4 Cell stick pack.....not with a wire making the batteries seperate.... and this was on a track not in a parking lot..... but my sig is true in some aspecs but i dont run my 12th on road...
Im thinking about buying the CRC 3.2R kit looks like a nice kit and i can get all of the parts and Option parts i need from there site.
I have my packs wired up as saddle packs on my 3.2.... You dn't need to make them as a 4 cell stick.... just take what you have and run them.....

Just watch the screws, they like to back out.... I've been loctiting everything....
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Old 01-29-2005, 05:02 PM   #10581
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Quote:
Originally posted by Chad_R40
Ok guys. this is what im going to do. Im not going to buy another Hara Kit but im going to switch to CRC. i went to the web site and to me it looks like they got every aftermarket and replacement part there is.
CRC also has Conversion kits also... and just regular kits... what should iget, what do you guys recomend. the only thig is that it needs to be a a chassis for a Stick pack not saddle. Any Help here Thanks...
Why are you still using stick pack batteries?!? I don't know of any competitive 1/12th scale cars that run stick packs. The old Associated 12E and 12I used to run stick packs and I have seen them on Ebay but... they would not be competitive with the cars that are being run today. You may just have to bite the bullet and get some loose cells and build packs to fit what ever car you are going to run.
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Old 01-29-2005, 05:12 PM   #10582
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Quote:
Originally posted by Crashby
Why are you still using stick pack batteries?!? I don't know of any competitive 1/12th scale cars that run stick packs. The old Associated 12E and 12I used to run stick packs and I have seen them on Ebay but... they would not be competitive with the cars that are being run today. You may just have to bite the bullet and get some loose cells and build packs to fit what ever car you are going to run.
I understood what he meant... The pack is soldered as a side by side stick pack, not as a saddle with a wire connecting the batteries in the middle.... He meant nothing about running a stick sport pack.... duh..... You can fit a 4 cell SIDE BY SIDE Stick pack into the CRC.... But it's easier to get a side by side SADDLE pack in....
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Old 01-29-2005, 06:13 PM   #10583
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Side by side batteries are not stick packs-DUH!
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Old 01-29-2005, 06:48 PM   #10584
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Well... Some of us understood what he meant..... Yes, technically it is a stick pack and not a saddle pack....
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Old 01-29-2005, 06:51 PM   #10585
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Default Hara conversion for L4

Saw thred on hara conversion for L4 can you Direct me to their web page I can't find it. thanks
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Old 01-29-2005, 08:42 PM   #10586
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Quote:
Originally posted by vtl1180ny
I understood what he meant... The pack is soldered as a side by side stick pack, not as a saddle with a wire connecting the batteries in the middle.... He meant nothing about running a stick sport pack.... duh..... You can fit a 4 cell SIDE BY SIDE Stick pack into the CRC.... But it's easier to get a side by side SADDLE pack in....
My bad. Of course Chad was running side by side batteries. He was running a Hara conversion. If he does not want to take his side by side pack apart, then he only has three options. The Hara conversion, CRC and Speed Merchant Rev. 4. The Rev 4 is what I run and I think it's the best carpet car running. The chassis is the narrowest of all the other cars with the exception of the Hara conversion. A narrow chassis allows you to run very small diameter tires and not have the chassis come in contact with the racing surface when cornering.
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Old 01-29-2005, 09:23 PM   #10587
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Quote:
Originally posted by vtl1180ny
Well... Some of us understood what he meant..... Yes, technically it is a stick pack and not a saddle pack....
stick packs are built with the batteries end to end, not side to side.
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Old 01-29-2005, 09:27 PM   #10588
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Good move Chad, go with the CRC 3.2R. It comes with everything you need; lowered pods, twin aluminum tubes, competition tires and a new narrowed chassis. At ROAR legal clearance, the chassis never hits the track. And with the lowered pods and #4 ride height adjusters, you can practically run the car on rims and make the ground clearance rule.
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Old 01-29-2005, 11:02 PM   #10589
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Man.. ok lets get this straight........THERE 4 LOOSE CELLS SOLDERD TOGETHER... SORRY WHAT ELSE DO YOU WANT ME TO CALL THEM. 4 Cell side X side 4 way Stick ColadbrabazirXors packs...
anyway i bought the crc 3.2R team spec kit today and i love the quality and it seems like its going to work great.
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Old 01-29-2005, 11:06 PM   #10590
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I did a little research on the mike lufaso site and he said that if you lay the servo down you can introduce bump steer. And after i tried it, i got a little bit of bump in. I think his site then said to add spacers or something, im assuming on the ball studs. Does anyone know if this would work to eliminate it? I really would like to use my servo layed down because now there is room to mount a reciever pack right down the middle of the chassis to obtain a little better side to side weight distribution. All i need to do is have my friend machine me some servo mounts because servo tape doesnt seem like it would hold up to 8 minutes of hard racing. Anyone have any thoughts ideas or comments?
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