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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 01-28-2005, 07:10 AM   #10531
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Quote:
Originally posted by pimpedaccord
Looking for some good rear axle bearings. (1/4x3/8 flanged) I've only tried the Avid and stock AE bearings. The Avid ones just plain suck and the AE ones are really good, but cost a lot ($6 each). Anybody know of anywhere to get good and cheap bearings? I've found a couple places but wanted to know if there's anywhere else or any opinions on these:

$2/each:
http://www.rc10gthobby.com/Bearings.htm#bhp

$3/each:
http://www.vxb.com/Merchant2/merchan...edBallBearings

$3/each but teflon:
http://www.vxb.com/Merchant2/merchan...edBallBearings

Try RCBoyz on Ebay.... They've got creat prices on bearings... Around 1.29 for Polyamide sealed....
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Old 01-28-2005, 09:04 AM   #10532
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Quote:
Originally posted by Chad_R40
I just installed the Hara Conversion to my 12L4. is there any setup tips you guys might have if anyone here uses the Hara conversion??? to me the side to side movment seems slow and not to much movement at all.. is this how it is suposed to be?
Chad...you'll want to polish the alum. slides, that'll help with drag, also do not over tighten the plastic clamps, you'll wnat to set it up so that they dont move front / back.

As far as setup I have no idea... but I remember the alum. block stuff from when I had a HPI-10G oval car.

Hey, does this conversion come with additonal springs for tuning roll?

E
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Old 01-28-2005, 10:16 AM   #10533
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Default Battery jumper wire question

I am trying to move up from running a mini-t on carpet to a 'real' car. A guy that runs at a somewhat local track that I have not run at has a 12L3 that has offered to me on a run it for a race before you buy type deal. I need to provide my own batteries for the race. I got cells to make 3 packs, and didn't have a clue on how long to make the saddle pack jumper wire. Anyone have a good length? I could fit it the day of the race when the car is in front of me, but I would rather spend that time trying to learn the car & setup instead of wasting the time playing with building batteries. I tried searching the manual and various forums and didn't find anything.

thanks in advance
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Old 01-28-2005, 10:35 AM   #10534
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around 170mm from end to end and that stretches over the sohock nicely, just behind the ballstud
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Old 01-28-2005, 10:52 AM   #10535
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Need some help choosing a new speedo.

Options are

Lrp Quantum comp. 2
Ko vfs-1
Novak GTX

At the minute i'm leaning towards the lrp as i know they make a good 1/12 speedo but it's been out awhile now so i wonder if it's going to be replaced any time soon.

I already run a ko vfs-2000j in my tourer and although it's great you have to use many schotie diodes and caps. etc to protect it and in a 1/12 car that sux. Don't know if i can really be bothered trying to wire it all in ;+(

Novak gtx looks promising but i cannot find out anywhere if it's any good at 4 cells racing ?? It's a nice size though and has the cap. attached and the Schotkie inside ;+)

Anyways any opinions would greatly be appreciated !!

Last edited by Merciless; 01-28-2005 at 10:59 AM.
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Old 01-28-2005, 10:57 AM   #10536
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I was on the same boat when my Hara Twister aka VFS-2000 blew in my 1/12th. I thought about going to the VFS-1 but didn't because of all the diodes and caps that needed with the VFS-1, also you'll need the new handheld programmer to program it, that's added cost which I wasn't thrilled about. GTX was nice, but you still need a cap and not a whole lot of my local people recommended it, so my choice was the QC2. I have to say, I'm pretty satisfied with its performance, size and weight especially for 1/12th. It's easy to program as well. For the QC2 in my 1/12th, all I needed was the diode, no cap.

Dom
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Old 01-28-2005, 11:41 AM   #10537
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Default Quantum 2

The Quantum 2 has been my choice. I have been thrilled with it's performance and size. I might be a dumb a$$, but I don't even run the diode. I was told that if I don't use brakes, then I don't need to worry about it. Any truth to that statement? I run a rx pack in mod, so that eliminates the need of a cap. I have pulled the + out of the rx harness, but I am not even sure that needs to be done. I don't run diode or caps in stock. Very friendly speedo.

Brian
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Old 01-28-2005, 12:21 PM   #10538
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Quote:
Originally posted by Chad_R40
I just installed the Hara Conversion to my 12L4. is there any setup tips you guys might have if anyone here uses the Hara conversion??? to me the side to side movment seems slow and not to much movement at all.. is this how it is suposed to be?
Just like with any T bar car, the pivot balls should move freely but not be so free that there is excessive slop in the pivot. With the Hara conversion the same is true. The side to side and fore and aft movement of the motor pod should be free. If it feels like it is binding, then you need to do a couple of checks. Make sure that the pivot is free. If the pivot ball does not move freely, ream out the hole in the cross brace that the pivot mounts to until the pivot ball is free. This can be a time consuming process as you do not want to remove too much material from the cross brace. The white pivot ball cups should fit into the hole in the cross brace with very light pressure. Itís just like reaming out the holes in the rear axle ride height adjusters to prevent the axle bearings from binding. The other thing you need to check is the two rectangular white locator bushings. Those two white pieces with the tiny screw in them. You want to tighten down the screw with the rectangular aluminum stand offs in them. Tighten down the screws until there is very, very slight drag on the white locator bushings. If you have them too loose, there will be excessive movement in the motor pod. If it is too tight, the motor pod will bind. It just takes a little adjusting to get it right. If you hit a lot of things on the track, those white locator bushings may need to be adjusted so check them after any hits. I have tried using some type of lube on those bushings but while it did make the movement nice, it did collect dirt and I think made for premature bushing failure and you donít want that as those parts are hard to come by. The white locator bushings should only go in one way as well so make sure you have them installed correctly.
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Old 01-28-2005, 12:25 PM   #10539
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The Size of the GTX is nice...until you look at the size of the Capacitor...it's the saize of the ESC itself!!

The combo of size and performance of the QC2 is hard to beat
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Old 01-28-2005, 12:55 PM   #10540
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Default Re: 12l4 observations part 2

Quote:
Originally posted by revzalot
After countersinking the chassis holes, I screwed on the front lower a arms back on the chassis. I stuck the chassis on some hudy blocks for 10th scale touring cars and stuck the droop gauge under each a arm. Guess what? Both sides are a mm off. Very bad! I took the a arm that's higher off the chassis and sanded it down. After an hour of sanding both a arms are equal height according to the droop guage.
You can also make finer adjustments with shims above or below the steering blocks on the king pin.
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Old 01-28-2005, 12:57 PM   #10541
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I've been running these for a year now:
http://www.teamtekin.com/cart2/asp/s....asp?item=N001
No problems what so ever. No external parts needed. I did run a receiver pack with my old batteries, but don't need it with newer ones. Fits is the 12th chassis perfect.
When I ran LRP before I always seemed to have a lot of neg. exp. dialed in to make run time. Haven't needed it with this.

Don't any pictures here at work, but can post some tonight if you'de like to see it mounted in the 12th scale. It's actually smaller than the Novak with the big cap. Just a little bigger than the LRP.

take care
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Old 01-28-2005, 12:59 PM   #10542
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Does anyone have a baseline setup for a 12L4 on carpet med to med/high grip?

If so I'd appreciate if you could email it to me.

thanks.

anthony.isla@comcast.net
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Old 01-28-2005, 01:04 PM   #10543
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box stock. I have set tq with the box stock setup
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Old 01-28-2005, 01:08 PM   #10544
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Don't let that one TQ go to your head now.

Also how did you finish in that main?
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Old 01-28-2005, 01:08 PM   #10545
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Looks like a touring car shock is being used on Hara's Hammer?
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