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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 01-27-2005, 03:12 PM   #10516
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Default 12l4 observations

I've done some test runs at my local indoor racquetball court and foud out the aluminum screws are sticking out of the chassis more than before. They expand more due to friction and heat. All the holes on the chassis will have to be countersunk. I'm using a drill bit and sanding cone to countersink.
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Old 01-27-2005, 03:38 PM   #10517
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Due to friction and heat? How's the possible? Is the chassis dragging on the ground? I've never heard that aluminum screws will expand on a chassis before.

Dom
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Old 01-27-2005, 04:04 PM   #10518
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Nexus- JR, the airtronics I have always had issues with, and the KO is fine as long as you have a KO radio and rx.

BTW, Speedmerchant has made a running change to the Rev. 4 and is now including IRS lowered pods with all of the kits, and they are back in stock!
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Old 01-27-2005, 04:32 PM   #10519
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Quote:
Originally posted by stormperson
Nexus- JR, the airtronics I have always had issues with, and the KO is fine as long as you have a KO radio and rx.

I've been using KO 947's and 949's with a Futaba radio and Novak recievers and they work great.
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Old 01-27-2005, 04:52 PM   #10520
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Quote:
Originally posted by CypressMidWest
That's odd because I always found my link car FAR EASIER to set up for asphalt ...
I may not have been clear ...it's hard to type out my thoughts and work at the same time.

I wanted to say use new tires not old tires. I found that if the tires are too old the traction from them is to inconsistant and it makes it hard to get the setup right.

E
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Old 01-27-2005, 05:22 PM   #10521
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Quote:
Originally posted by litespeed-dom
Due to friction and heat? How's the possible? Is the chassis dragging on the ground? I've never heard that aluminum screws will expand on a chassis before.

Dom
You can get the proper counter sink from your local hardware store. Just make sure you get the counter sink with the same cutting angle as the screws you are using. Or... you can just buy Lunsford titanium screws which will sit below the chassis and not only will your car be lighter but you can use them on aluminum bulk heads and such. You should never screw aluminum into aluminum.
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Old 01-27-2005, 06:53 PM   #10522
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Quote:
Originally posted by litespeed-dom
Due to friction and heat? How's the possible? Is the chassis dragging on the ground? I've never heard that aluminum screws will expand on a chassis before.

Dom
After an hour of running, I've checked the chassis with a straight edge and some screws were hitting the straight edge. Prior to running, the screws never touched the straight edge. I've noticed the edges of the chassis were dirty so the chassis did drag a little on the ground.
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Old 01-27-2005, 07:11 PM   #10523
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There are spacers for the front that fit under the screws that hold the suspension on and it raises the suspension and keeps the chassis heigth the same.
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Old 01-27-2005, 07:45 PM   #10524
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I just installed the Hara Conversion to my 12L4. is there any setup tips you guys might have if anyone here uses the Hara conversion??? to me the side to side movment seems slow and not to much movement at all.. is this how it is suposed to be?
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Old 01-27-2005, 07:58 PM   #10525
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pics here might be able to help:
http://www.atsushihara.com/setting/ah12point.htm





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Old 01-27-2005, 08:49 PM   #10526
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Quote:
Originally posted by MR JOLLY
Ihave a L4
how the hell do you set one up ie;the rear disc that slides ever where how tight??
T-bar how tight /loose

shock in the middle how cranked up should it be or soft
Mr Jolly,

Come up to Penicuik, Scotland this Monday night and I will show you. If I can come from California, you should be able to make it from Kent...he, he...

Otherwise, the Lufaso site has great information.
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Old 01-27-2005, 10:37 PM   #10527
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Default 12l4 observations part 2

After countersinking the chassis holes, I screwed on the front lower a arms back on the chassis. I stuck the chassis on some hudy blocks for 10th scale touring cars and stuck the droop gauge under each a arm. Guess what? Both sides are a mm off. Very bad! I took the a arm that's higher off the chassis and sanded it down. After an hour of sanding both a arms are equal height according to the droop guage.
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Old 01-27-2005, 10:45 PM   #10528
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Looking for some good rear axle bearings. (1/4x3/8 flanged) I've only tried the Avid and stock AE bearings. The Avid ones just plain suck and the AE ones are really good, but cost a lot ($6 each). Anybody know of anywhere to get good and cheap bearings? I've found a couple places but wanted to know if there's anywhere else or any opinions on these:

$2/each:
http://www.rc10gthobby.com/Bearings.htm#bhp

$3/each:
http://www.vxb.com/Merchant2/merchan...edBallBearings

$3/each but teflon:
http://www.vxb.com/Merchant2/merchan...edBallBearings
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Old 01-27-2005, 10:48 PM   #10529
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About the only way to get a good, straight countersink is to go buy a real sink bit (about $15) and use a drill press or a mill. Otherwise you'll never get it very straight.
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Old 01-28-2005, 12:32 AM   #10530
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Quote:
Originally posted by pimpedaccord
Looking for some good rear axle bearings. (1/4x3/8 flanged) I've only tried the Avid and stock AE bearings. The Avid ones just plain suck and the AE ones are really good, but cost a lot ($6 each). Anybody know of anywhere to get good and cheap bearings? I've found a couple places but wanted to know if there's anywhere else or any opinions on these:

$2/each:
http://www.rc10gthobby.com/Bearings.htm#bhp

$3/each:
http://www.vxb.com/Merchant2/merchan...edBallBearings

$3/each but teflon:
http://www.vxb.com/Merchant2/merchan...edBallBearings
Have a look at these:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXD094&P=0
I've used them on my pro ten and was happy with them, especially considered the price!
Otherwise have a look at these:
http://www.teamcrc.com/crc/modules.p...&prodID=601681
I've heard good things about those too. I haven't tried them myself though.
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