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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 01-27-2005, 09:02 AM   #10501
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Quote:
Originally posted by fatdoggy
Hey guys Lufaso's site is back up.

http://home.sc.rr.com/mlufaso/rc/12l4/index.html
About time! Now to hit the books!
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Old 01-27-2005, 09:12 AM   #10502
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i noticed alot of pros dont use those friction plates? is thier a reason for that? i plan to get a rc12l4 and im gonna take it of if thier a better way of going about it
and are those dampner tubs like very long thin shocks?

Last edited by kh15; 01-27-2005 at 09:18 AM.
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Old 01-27-2005, 09:30 AM   #10503
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Default Re: Re: 12L4 Mod

Quote:
Originally posted by lem2
Yes, it can be done! I did it on my L3, more or lss youwill use the same parts, I used the ones from CRC. Look...
Hey Lem, quick quesiton. On your L3 arent the damper tubes backwards? Are they supposed to be going the other way. I htink you might have put the piece where the body post and damper tubes on wrong backwards. I might be wrong.
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Old 01-27-2005, 09:51 AM   #10504
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Being new to 12th scale I'm not sure what people run...

What are the more popular servos to run in 12th.

Just looking for something nice with a reasonable price tag.

KO
JR Racing
Futaba
Airtronics

not a fan of hitec.

Thanks.
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Old 01-27-2005, 09:59 AM   #10505
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All of those companies make a good servo.

It's all personal preference.

I prefer the KO 947 or the newer 949.
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Old 01-27-2005, 10:09 AM   #10506
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Quote:
Originally posted by Nexus
Being new to 12th scale I'm not sure what people run...

What are the more popular servos to run in 12th.

Just looking for something nice with a reasonable price tag.

KO
JR Racing
Futaba
Airtronics

not a fan of hitec.

Thanks.
The KO's are great. I am using a Futaba 9602 which is great. Or you can go digital with the futaba.
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Old 01-27-2005, 10:11 AM   #10507
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Quote:
Originally posted by crimson eagle
Revzalot,

Yes, I like it. Damping doesn't change front to back, tube are easier to deal with and that post is a pain in the rear. I've also bee making some carbon - carbon tubes, way better than the plastic or aluminum ones.

Chris.
Have you finished my tubes?!? Quit playing around on this forum and finish my dampener tubes!!
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Old 01-27-2005, 10:51 AM   #10508
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Quote:
Originally posted by EricF
Link cars obviously work on asphalt as well as carpet, but it would seem to me that 't' bar cars are eaiser, faster to set up on asphalt.

As I found out the hard way when running a link car on asphalt (or any surface) make sure your starting out with new tires. Do NOT use tires that you may have had from last season. They just don't seem to work and you keep chasing a car that doesn't handle.

E
That's odd because I always found my link car FAR EASIER to set up for asphalt because I could tune the roll-rate and dampening, and the fore and aft rate and dampening, independently. T-bar cars always seem to be about compromising, because your whole suspension revolves around that hunk of fiberglass. Link cars are more sensitive to changes in shock oil, and spring rate than t-bar cars, so I guess for some that may be difficult.
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Old 01-27-2005, 10:52 AM   #10509
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Quote:
Originally posted by picco007
John,

I had the same problem when I changed to a damper tube car from the friction disk car. What I had to do to get the car to work better, I had to change the damper tube syrup a few times and when then found what we like here on asphalt. I was using the corally blue stuff (don't know what thickness) and it was fine.
Yes sir. The oil or grease changes everything.
I think I like the damper disk better is they effect more of the steering feel, this is carpet racing. With tubes it seemed to get the steering I wanted I had to take away rear traction with shock oil and stiffer springs.

Quote:

kh15 i noticed alot of pros dont use those friction plates?
I think it's the other way around. Masami won the worlds and Blackstock has won about everything once. They both use disk. There are starting be more tube cars though.
I think it's good to know what both setup's do and be able to switch between them as option. The more you try things, the more you learn.

take care
john
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Old 01-27-2005, 10:53 AM   #10510
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Hi Crashby,

I plan to work on some tubes on Friday actually, I'm probably going to do 4 or 5 standard sets, then work on some sprung prototype sets, then if I get time (unlikely) I'll work on some titanium piston sets. If I can get these ones down to a reasonable production time (instead of the 4 hours it took to make my set) I may offer those too. But I do have your name on a set.

I really want to try a sprung set on my L3 to see what it does, maybe it will liven the hadling up a bit.

Chris.
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Old 01-27-2005, 11:03 AM   #10511
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Most recently I have been using 50,000 silicon in my tubes, seems to be pretty good but in my tubes I have tried to maximise the length of the piston in the tube for the best damping effect. I'm interested to hear what everyone else is using and to what effect?
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Old 01-27-2005, 12:41 PM   #10512
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Quote:
Originally posted by MR JOLLY
Wish i could get to kent no you would`nt scotlands far prettyer

Anyway the club here is having it`s first meet for 1/12th on march 18th, that will be the first test run for them

next thing is this

Corally TC2 (Jack the Gripper) Silver can - pink writing (13779)
LRP Top Traction (Blue Factor) White can - blue writing (6501)
Orion Street Juice (TC Traction F1) clear bottle - purple writing (44101)
Orion Foam Juice Formula clear bottle yellow writing (44105)
CS Grip Tyre Conditioner High Grip clear bottle white label (C6400)
- Or short tin can - white and yellow label (C6400)
The packaging of the CS addative changed -same part number, two types of container

In the UK most people use either:
Corally TC2 (Jack the Gripper) Silver can - pink writing (13779)
or
CS Grip Tyre Conditioner short tin can - white and yellow label (C6400)

Spashett prefers CS

I have even used Jack the Gripper on CS27s

Not too sure on the others...

"Jack the Gripper" What a cool name, second only to Novak's Rhino charger "Nothing charges like a Rhino"
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Old 01-27-2005, 12:45 PM   #10513
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in scotland 90% of people use the lrp compound
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Old 01-27-2005, 12:47 PM   #10514
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Quote:
Originally posted by crimson eagle


Hi Crashby,

I plan to work on some tubes on Friday actually, I'm probably going to do 4 or 5 standard sets, then work on some sprung prototype sets, then if I get time (unlikely) I'll work on some titanium piston sets. If I can get these ones down to a reasonable production time (instead of the 4 hours it took to make my set) I may offer those too. But I do have your name on a set.

I really want to try a sprung set on my L3 to see what it does, maybe it will liven the hadling up a bit.

Chris.
You Da Man!!!
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Old 01-27-2005, 12:47 PM   #10515
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Quote:
Originally posted by John_S
in scotland 90% of people use the lrp compound
Cool, I have seen a few people use it but not tried it myself
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