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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 09-30-2001, 10:06 PM   #91
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Quote:
Originally posted by XrayEye
Does anybody run the Speed Merchant Rev 3? I am new to 1/12 and was looking at the Rev 3.
I race a Speedmerchant Rev3, what were you wanting to know about it?

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Old 10-01-2001, 11:41 AM   #92
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Quote:
Originally posted by Mars
Anyone know what's the best tire size for racing on asphalt?
Mars... most of the setups I seen (for carpet and asphalt) have the front tires at around 43mm dia and rear 48-50mm dia. I think there is one asphalt setup on the Associated site (from a long time ago!)..... You are definately getting serious into 1/12.... are you giving up touring?!
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Old 10-02-2001, 07:03 AM   #93
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Default Corally SP12 G3

HI,

I just acquired a Corally SP12 G3 but I have no idea on the setup. Can somebody help with a sample setup I can start with ? What would they be for:

1. Toe-in/out
2. Tire choice for most asphalt
3. Ride height fornt and rear
4.Tire diameter front and rear

Please help. Thanks



Regards
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Old 10-02-2001, 10:23 AM   #94
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Any 12th scalers in the Houston, TX area wanna come race stock 4-cell at our Grand Opening race?

October 20-21

Check out www.reflexrc.com for more details.

Joe Chen
Reflex R/C
Houston, TX
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Old 10-02-2001, 01:18 PM   #95
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Re: Corally SP12 G3

I'm in the same boat as you. I picked up the SP12-G3 late last year and will start this year's indoor season with it. I just notived that there is a new upgrade to a 4-cell chassis and I am thinking of converting my chassis. Has anyone run the new SP12M 4-cell chassis?


Quote:
Originally posted by melvin
HI,

I just acquired a Corally SP12 G3 but I have no idea on the setup. Can somebody help with a sample setup I can start with ? What would they be for:

1. Toe-in/out
2. Tire choice for most asphalt
3. Ride height fornt and rear
4.Tire diameter front and rear

Please help. Thanks



Regards
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Old 10-02-2001, 03:43 PM   #96
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Default My setup

I donīt have a Corally but I have a RC12L3. The basic setup should be very similar in terms of tire compounds and angles

The first thing you should know (if you are new to 1/12) is that these little beasts have an incredible steering.

Try to run 0 toe or a little toe in. Toe out will cause a very nervous car and very dificult to drive.

Camber should be around -1š and front tires in a harder compound than the front. I use purple (Jaco) on the front and Grey (Jaco) on the rear.

If the rear gets a little loose untighten the diff a little bit in order to keep the car planted.

Be soft on the trigger. A nervous finger will make slower laps and worse driving. It also helps a lot in duration, so I guess that they can't be driven like 4wd sedans.

On carpet I use adictive (Zip Grip Free) only on the back, but if the track is very twisty I use it in the inner half of the front tires.

Any motor will make these cars look like bullets. I run 27x1 with ratios around 5 and I'm difficult to catch even to the guys with hot motors. The torque of a 27 coming out of a curve makes all the diference.

Try to use the freewheel effect when coming to a curve. The transferred weight to the front will give lots of steering, then coming out of the curve, just hit the trigger. Use brakes very lightly. Remember that only the rear wheels brake. Easy does it...

For asphalt I would use Low Wear tires (the same I use now for carpet) and a looser diff. The grip is surely lower than carpet and if you don't want the car to spin like mad, that's the way to go.

Is this setup sucessful? It must be, because I won all the races around here, sometimes with 7 or 8 laps more than the guys behind.

To be honest, this setup it was copied from a winning setup on one Triple Crown race (John Cyrul) I guess.

Another thing - Concentration is a must. They are small and fast. If the race is 8 minutes long, don't get distracted. One small distraction and off you go.
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Old 10-03-2001, 02:41 AM   #97
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im planning to get the rc12l3, just want to know what motors and gearing do you use!

and i heard that the stock "green" dot tires are useless...and the pink ones is good....
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Old 10-03-2001, 03:45 AM   #98
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Quote:
Originally posted by dtm


Mars... most of the setups I seen (for carpet and asphalt) have the front tires at around 43mm dia and rear 48-50mm dia. I think there is one asphalt setup on the Associated site (from a long time ago!)..... You are definately getting serious into 1/12.... are you giving up touring?!
dtm: thanks for info. I also found some setup sheets of the pros indicating the tire size they use. Actually I like racing 1/12. Especially when the KaiTak track is resurfaced and become really good for 1/12 racing. But certainly I won't give up TC
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Old 10-03-2001, 03:50 AM   #99
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Quote:
Originally posted by Disaster999
im planning to get the rc12l3, just want to know what motors and gearing do you use!

and i heard that the stock "green" dot tires are useless...and the pink ones is good....
It depends on whether you run 4cells or 6 cells and what battery you are going to use.
if you run 6cells with 3000mah, you can run as low as 11-12T mod with gearing around 21-25/98-100 in 64 pitch. These are for referece only
the greens has less traction then the pink but certainly not useless.
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Old 10-03-2001, 04:06 AM   #100
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thanks mars

ill try those...with the 13 turn motor...

what about stock?
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Old 10-03-2001, 08:16 AM   #101
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Green are still good for tuning, but they wear out very quickly.
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Old 10-03-2001, 08:31 AM   #102
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icic....

is stock motor on 1/12 relly fast? i havent driven a 1/12 before and want to get use to the car before i switch to a hotter mod motor!
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Old 10-03-2001, 08:36 AM   #103
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Quote:
Originally posted by Disaster999
icic....

is stock motor on 1/12 relly fast? i havent driven a 1/12 before and want to get use to the car before i switch to a hotter mod motor!
OH Yea!!!!!
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Old 10-03-2001, 08:44 AM   #104
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Default You bet

Try a 75/15 ratio with a P2K or a Rage and you'll see how fast it can get.

I use this combo with 6 cells and I can assure you that's a hand full, in fact both hands full.
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Old 10-03-2001, 09:06 AM   #105
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Quote:
Originally posted by Mars
dtm: thanks for info. I also found some setup sheets of the pros indicating the tire size they use. Actually I like racing 1/12. Especially when the KaiTak track is resurfaced and become really good for 1/12 racing. But certainly I won't give up TC
hehe... you are tempting me back into 1/12 There were a couple of 6 cell 1/12 at PYC last night I had some FUN time chasing them with my Xray... they were not slow!!!
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