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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 01-26-2005, 04:15 AM   #10471
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it`s going to be at eltham club nr sidcup kent (the one on racechat)

And yes i got my car from pollhill modelworld

with regards to body`s CML now only carry 1 shell & that`s it , they did tell the shop they are trimming down the 1/12th sector(not enough demand)

Helgar??
shop is going to contact them regarding the parma & cefx shells
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Old 01-26-2005, 04:16 AM   #10472
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What is a good additive for foams that won`t interfear with additive for slicks??
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Old 01-26-2005, 07:14 AM   #10473
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They are only carrying the shells that are legal but that's enough to get you going.

Helger have both types of CEFX (the new ones are high demand though but apparently easy to drive). They also have the new Parma Zytec and the Speed8, Zytec is easier than the original CEFX to drive.

CML seem to have run out of Proto P35's as they are no longer made, the Speed 12 is not legal but I liked it to drive.
There are several Corally shells but I have not tried them.

I tend to use the LRP additive LRP65010 (replaces6501) from Helger. The club I run at also has a lot of people using CS High Grip - they are both on the list on racechat as legal odourless. LRP seesm to work well on rubber tyres too. Jack the Gripper is supposed to be good but i have never tried it.

Apparently it is best to run whatever most other people are using to get best results, so I would get a supply of the LRP......

Regards
Scott
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Old 01-26-2005, 07:46 AM   #10474
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That sound real good to me

I have just ordered a parma zytec & parma magenta fr & pink rr from DMS

Q) what is the difference between the rear pink & grey both 30 shore

I will buy from our LHS if the price is right,

So with the LHS carrying my products i said i would support them ,they scatch my back i`ll scratch there`s as they say
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Old 01-26-2005, 08:08 AM   #10475
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Quote:
Originally posted by MR JOLLY
I have just ordered a parma zytec & parma magenta fr & pink rr from DMS
Please note that you need to use flanged bearings on the Parma FRONT wheels. The L4 kit comes with unflanged bearings which only work with the Jaco fronts.

I will be in Scotland next Monday for the racing in Penicuik. Wish I could get to Kent.
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Old 01-26-2005, 08:24 AM   #10476
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Wish i could get to kent no you would`nt scotlands far prettyer

Anyway the club here is having it`s first meet for 1/12th on march 18th, that will be the first test run for them

next thing is this

Corally TC2 (Jack the Gripper) Silver can - pink writing (13779)
LRP Top Traction (Blue Factor) White can - blue writing (6501)
Orion Street Juice (TC Traction F1) clear bottle - purple writing (44101)
Orion Foam Juice Formula clear bottle yellow writing (44105)
CS Grip Tyre Conditioner High Grip clear bottle white label (C6400)
- Or short tin can - white and yellow label (C6400)
The packaging of the CS addative changed -same part number, two types of container

If you have another odourless additive you would like checked as being ok this can be done by giving it or sending it to the committee (via the eligibility officer please) However don't expect it to be done on the day at a national, we'll need a couple of weeks to check it (chemically and on the track)

(This is because certain additives when mixed on a track can destroy the grip for everybody present, those listed above are all known to work together ok)

Do you think this is a good guide pasted it of another forum in the uk
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Old 01-26-2005, 08:30 AM   #10477
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Quote:
Originally posted by MR JOLLY
Q) what is the difference between the rear pink & grey both 30 shore
ON the track-PInks provide more side bite and more forward traction than Greys. What some of us do in stock is to run PInk rears till traction comes up and then switch to Greys. If you can go 8-minutes without car getting loose-then you should be faster on Greys.

IN mod-your most likely going to remain on pink rears the whole race day.
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Old 01-26-2005, 09:13 AM   #10478
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Don't forget that you you have to pick up some extra shims to run parma rears. they have more offset then jacos.

Which reminds me, I wouldn't think cutting on the rear pod would be the correct thing to do. Yes it will work but your rear track is now going to be narrower. Both tires are the same width just different offsets. so shimming the axle would make the most sense. I guess what i was wondering was; does anyone make a thick spacer that makes up the difference in offset between the two tires.
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Old 01-26-2005, 09:15 AM   #10479
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oh yeah, thanks for the info Ray and Theisgroup.
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Old 01-26-2005, 09:24 AM   #10480
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Quote:
Originally posted by Rob Phillips
Don't forget that you you have to pick up some extra shims to run parma rears. they have more offset then jacos.

Which reminds me, I wouldn't think cutting on the rear pod would be the correct thing to do. Yes it will work but your rear track is now going to be narrower. Both tires are the same width just different offsets. so shimming the axle would make the most sense. I guess what i was wondering was; does anyone make a thick spacer that makes up the difference in offset between the two tires.
I am afraid not-though if you buy from Oval on-line shops-they have much thicker shims. I have even used an unflanged bearing as a spacer when I needed to take up a lot of room on the axle.
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Old 01-26-2005, 09:37 AM   #10481
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Quote:
Originally posted by rayhuang
I am afraid not-though if you buy from Oval on-line shops-they have much thicker shims. I have even used an unflanged bearing as a spacer when I needed to take up a lot of room on the axle.
I wouldn't use a bearing as spacer, because now the bearing inside the ride height adjuster wouldn't be running smoothly. What you can do is to find a couple of old/shot bearings, put it on a vise, squeeze it and the bearing will break apart, use the what used to be the inner race of the bearing as spacer, works perfect and it won't bind up the bearings.

Dom
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Old 01-26-2005, 10:23 AM   #10482
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Quote:
Originally posted by crimson eagle
Hog,

do NOT get a link car for running on asphalt, they cannot handle it. If I was going to buy a t-plate car right now I would be looking at the T-fource or maybe a 12l4
Actually, the Speedmerchant Rev.4 is a VERY good asphalt car, and Rheinhard and Groskamp both put CRC CARPETKNIVES into the A-Main at the IFMAR Worlds, which was an asphalt race as well. The days of the "T-bar cars work better on Asphalt" are now officially over. There were three "T-bar free" cars in the main at the most prestigious On-Road race on Earth.

If you're dead set on getting a T-bar car for Asphalt, I'd get a Kawada, Xenon or Yokomo, as they are designed for asphalt racing and come with "flexi" chassis to increase bite. Of course you could just get a Rev. 4 and tune your car with the suspension, rather than chassis flex..............
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Old 01-26-2005, 11:26 AM   #10483
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That Slapmaster is one of the coolest looking 12th scale cars I have ever seen.Very original design nice to see something other than a flat sheet of carbon.
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Old 01-26-2005, 12:24 PM   #10484
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Hey guys Lufaso's site is back up.

http://home.sc.rr.com/mlufaso/rc/12l4/index.html
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Old 01-26-2005, 01:16 PM   #10485
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Link cars obviously work on asphalt as well as carpet, but it would seem to me that 't' bar cars are eaiser, faster to set up on asphalt.

As I found out the hard way when running a link car on asphalt (or any surface) make sure your starting out with new tires. Do NOT use tires that you may have had from last season. They just don't seem to work and you keep chasing a car that doesn't handle.

E
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