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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 01-24-2005, 10:54 PM   #10456
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Quote:
Originally posted by SteveB
I thought it was kind of funny that some of you guys knew which esc it was when I didn't tell what it was.
We monitor your phone too...
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Old 01-25-2005, 07:32 PM   #10457
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how come you guys wrap the antenna wire around the tube insteed up running it up the tube?
and i was reading my new magizeen and it was covering some race i forget which one but all the big names were running 1/12th scale and they were all saying that all it takes is a "bobble" to lose a race?
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Old 01-25-2005, 07:48 PM   #10458
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Default Bumpy carpet T-Bar question

I'm running 4c stock 1/12th at the Snowbirds. Typically I use a .075 T bar with all three pod screw in place with a green spring. However, last year perennial fast guy Smyka told me to run a .063 with only the outer holes and a blue spring. He said the tracks gets so bumpy that you need a thin T-Bar ands that it will give you all the steering you need for stock. My car was super easy to drive and it was fast. do any of you run a similar setup for bumpy carpet?

FYI...usually by Sunday the 1/12th cars catch and inch of air on some parts of the Snowbirds tracks. Last year Blackstock and McMahon were in the lead of the A-Main at different times. Both had their cars catch on a lifted corner of a board and flip off the track and out of the lead.
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Old 01-25-2005, 07:53 PM   #10459
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KH15,
You cant run the antenna up the tube because it is not an antenna tube like a touring car. It is a fiberglass rod that is meant to right the car if it tips. So the only way to do your antenna is to wrap it.
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Old 01-25-2005, 08:21 PM   #10460
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Default Re: link vs t-bar

Quote:
Originally posted by odpurple
Link cars use a single center pivot ball to hinge the motor pod with a tie rod (link) on each side. Link cars can have the batteries in a single row in the center of the car, t-bar cars must use a saddle pack. Speedmerchant Rev 4 and CRC Carpet Knife 3.2 are the two currently available link cars.
Don't forget the Hara conversion. It is neither T bar nor link. I don't know what you would call it. A U block? It does use a pivot to hinge the motor pod and a block of aluminum in the shape of an upside down U to mount the springs.
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Old 01-25-2005, 08:31 PM   #10461
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any site dedicatied to 1/12th? or any vids of these cars in action?
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Old 01-25-2005, 08:33 PM   #10462
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I have two Q's;

When switching from Jaco to Parma tires on a L4 what are you guys using for spacers on the rear? Without shimming it, the tire rubs the lower pod. I think I need about 2mm.

Last week I was running My L4 and it wanted to push like crazy. I'm running pretty much Blackstocks L3 setup. Using Jaco Dbl Pink front and Jaco Pink rears. sauceing(FXII) about 1/3 to 1/2 on fronts and all the rears. Also, runnign ascari body. My buddy told me to try a stiffer rear spring. I will try that the next time I'm at the track. Any other suggestions? Oh yeah track is burnt new ozite. Apprx 90x50 and very smooth.Thanks
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Old 01-25-2005, 08:37 PM   #10463
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Smyka is da man when it comes to 1/12 scale. He has helped me out a lot with my car.


Mark, good luck at the Birds!! one more time....



-Juan Carlos
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Old 01-25-2005, 08:45 PM   #10464
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I have a few questions: I was wondering if there would be much of a differance by running my servo flat on the chassis instead of at an angle like the stock servo monts do on an l3? Slighly lower center of gravity? If i did this, should I mount the ball studs in the front or in the back of the servo saver? If I mount them in the front then I will need to remove part of the upper arms, but if I run them in the rear I wont need to remove as much, if any material from the upper arm. If I set up my servo this way would it make a difference on how the car steers? The reason i am considering this is to move my servo up the chassis so that I can mount the reciever pack closer to the center(right behind the servo), which will allow me to obtain a car where the weight is distributed more evenly.
One more thing: When I was rebuilding my car I noticed I had lost shim or two for the rear axel, and when I buy them and install them, should I allow just a little movement in the rear axle, no no movement at all?
Lastly, I found like three trinity greases for dampener tubes and the front suspension(white, red, and purple stuff) and was wondering what exactly these greases did to affect how the car handled(more traction, steering, etc).
Thanks(sorry for all the questions)
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Old 01-25-2005, 08:52 PM   #10465
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Quote:
Originally posted by Rob Phillips
I have two Q's;

When switching from Jaco to Parma tires on a L4 what are you guys using for spacers on the rear? Without shimming it, the tire rubs the lower pod. I think I need about 2mm.

Last week I was running My L4 and it wanted to push like crazy. I'm running pretty much Blackstocks L3 setup. Using Jaco Dbl Pink front and Jaco Pink rears. sauceing(FXII) about 1/3 to 1/2 on fronts and all the rears. Also, runnign ascari body. My buddy told me to try a stiffer rear spring. I will try that the next time I'm at the track. Any other suggestions? Oh yeah track is burnt new ozite. Apprx 90x50 and very smooth.Thanks
I can answer your first question for sure. Yo want your cars total rear width to be 6.77" wide. When you go from Jaco to Parma-your car will become much narrower due to the rim offset. Measure your cars total width with Jacos-then put the Parmas on and remeasure, Make sure you space out the axle evenyl per side till you hit 6.77"

I say 6.77 because thats ROAR max .width

As for question number two-I can recommend a some things.

1-sauce more of the front tire

2-try White or Grey rears or smaller diameter rears.

3-Softer font spring (0.020 works well most of the time).

4-Make your turning circle (dual rate) 3 or 4 clicks smaller.

5-run the front of the car just a tad lower than the rear

6-stiffer center spring (silver).

7-Parma Speed 8 body.
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Old 01-25-2005, 09:41 PM   #10466
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Quote:
Originally posted by Rob Phillips
I have two Q's;

When switching from Jaco to Parma tires on a L4 what are you guys using for spacers on the rear? Without shimming it, the tire rubs the lower pod. I think I need about 2mm.

Last week I was running My L4 and it wanted to push like crazy. I'm running pretty much Blackstocks L3 setup. Using Jaco Dbl Pink front and Jaco Pink rears. sauceing(FXII) about 1/3 to 1/2 on fronts and all the rears. Also, runnign ascari body. My buddy told me to try a stiffer rear spring. I will try that the next time I'm at the track. Any other suggestions? Oh yeah track is burnt new ozite. Apprx 90x50 and very smooth.Thanks
1) you will have to shave down the pod plate. The offset on the wheel is different. I had to do that with the trc foams as well. The big thing is that you will want the same displacement from the centerline of the rear axle. also what ray said, make the track width as wide as possible

2) on the ascari body there is too uch donw force on the rear of the body, you will want to cut out the 2 outlines in the rear wing of the body. cut them the size of the outlines. this will give you more even downforce front to rear. What I was seeing is the front of the car lift as I was going down the long straight. because the rear had soo much down force, it would force the front up. I cut the 2 hole in the rear wing and now the car is faster by .4 sec a lap from the speed 12 body. you will notice it pushes more on fast sweepers then tight twisties because you have more speed and the rear lift the front that much more.
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Old 01-25-2005, 09:49 PM   #10467
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Quote:
Originally posted by Switch Blade
One more thing: When I was rebuilding my car I noticed I had lost shim or two for the rear axel, and when I buy them and install them, should I allow just a little movement in the rear axle, no no movement at all?
i leave just enough room so that I am not putting alot of pressure on the bearing. you would not leave enough room that the axel has play from side to side, just enough so that you are not putting undue pressure on the bearing. A good way to set it is to sping the rear axel and see how free it is and then set the left hub and spin the axel again. it should still spin just as free. then check to see if the axel has any play side to side. if it has play, you will need to make it a little tighter.
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Old 01-26-2005, 12:55 AM   #10468
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Default 12th scale paint helper

Found this cool paint helper for painting a body for your 12th scale. Please excuse this post if this belongs to the painting section. Click here!
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Old 01-26-2005, 01:18 AM   #10469
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I have just getting a L4 factory kit for a new club that is starting up for 1/12th here in the uk
Q)is there anything that i should know (probs) with the car

Brand new carpet what tyres are best for durability & grip, were not after outright grip, jaco`s & parma`s are avialable

Also trying to source some decent 1/12th shell the main suppliers over here are not bringing them into the uk (not enough demand)


We (bunch of us) have never raced these little pocket rockets we are just a bit bored with touring cars ,we have so many series & clubs are way,also the gym halls are to small to go fast with a 1/10th
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Old 01-26-2005, 03:28 AM   #10470
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Dear Mr Jolly,

I would suggest Purple fronts and some Pink and Grey Rears, these are the standard tyres to choose. Parma's seem to be the strongest wheels - and I am a good tester of durability.

All of the relevant bodies are in stock with the UK distributors, you seem to have contact with the distributors. 12th is growing massively and quickly in the UK. Did you buy your car in the UK?

Where in kent is the club? Is this the one discussed on Racechat?

Regards
Scott
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