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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 01-22-2005, 06:51 PM   #10426
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It seems when my diff is smooth, its always way too loose. So when i get to the track and have my diff nice and smooth, its always way too loose... When I tighten it and it actually works like a diff, its not smooth

BTW the beveled washer is fcing the rite way.... I dont think I need to get new diff balls and rings because I got the kit 3 weeks ago...
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Old 01-22-2005, 07:00 PM   #10427
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Larry... Mine is exactly the same way... I'm thinking it may be certain spur gears, they're not really intended to have little balls in them....
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Old 01-22-2005, 08:44 PM   #10428
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Diff problems - Just make sure that after the race day is over you loosen the diff completely. I've started doing this, cleaning the diff/spur and re-lubing after every race day. My diff bearings are lasting longer now. Unless your diff has been slipping, most of the time it's the bearing that is shot, not the balls and rings.
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Old 01-22-2005, 09:30 PM   #10429
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Quote:
Originally posted by wes
so im going to be runnign mod 12th scale from now on and i noticed that the kr wasnt to hot in 12th scale and i noticed that most peopel run the pt but isnt the pt just a kr with standup brush hoods and a small size comm so could i just get some standup brush hoods and slap a small comm arm int here and have a pt? plus what brushes work the best to get the full time out of the motor. i ran blue springs with the kr and it made the heat jsut fine but i wasnt much faster than a stock car in the last minute or two and any help with the motor setup would be very helpfull
The Pt has different vents in the can than the Kr. Reedy only submitted the configurations as is for approval by ROAR. Mixing brush hoods, arms and cans between these to motors is not legal per ROAR. If you are running in a non-sanctioned event, who cares.
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Old 01-23-2005, 07:43 AM   #10430
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Treydog..
Try the 767 with a verticle slot, then narrow the brush .01" per side (all the way around) with green springs... for 1/12 works great...
Wayne


Davidl...
Do you have any of the IRS ride hgt adj.?? None of the local shops have them.. I want to make sure they fit in the BMI kit I'm working on...
Thanks,
Wayne
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Old 01-23-2005, 07:02 PM   #10431
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What foam tire would any one suggest to run on a track surface of smooth concrete with a heavy coating of vht?
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Old 01-23-2005, 07:47 PM   #10432
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Quote:
Originally posted by sg1
Davidl...
Do you have any of the IRS ride hgt adj.?? None of the local shops have them.. I want to make sure they fit in the BMI kit I'm working on...
Thanks,
Wayne [/B]
Yes, I have them. They fit all of the IRS pod plates that I have. I would trust IRS.
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Old 01-23-2005, 10:26 PM   #10433
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Default Today was a tough one

I finally got everything done on my car. This was my first time running a 1/12th car and did it end up being an expensive day. I thought I was taking it easy, well OK I know I was taking it easy because I really didn't want to risk breaking anything.I got distracted from driving and hit a corner post. The car started trying to go in a circle at full throttle by itself. I popped the body off to find that the speed control had come apart. Luckily the on/off switch worked and I was able to shut the car off. Get the car in the pits and the speed control snaps back together with no apparant damage since steering and throttle both work.
Round 2, I'm being even more careful now since I'm really afraid the speed control might come apart on me again. I go over a corner dot and the car does it again. This time I can smell electrics frying. The case had come apart again but the circuit boards didn't completely seperate and it fried itself.
So I guess I'm out the $150 I paid for the first controller and the cost of the one I had to buy today.
Sorry, I'm done. Just had to vent a little.
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Old 01-23-2005, 11:01 PM   #10434
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wierd, 10 yrs of racing and never have my esc come off, im using trinity servo tape.
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Old 01-23-2005, 11:09 PM   #10435
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im really getting interested into this 1/12 scale on road stuff and i was wondering of any website that are dedicated to it? one that i could go to and just read up on this area of r/c so i dont have to ask a million questions?
and the car i like is the AE rc12l4 pan car its really got some nice features and i think it will be a good car for a newbie like me!
and what are the dimensions of these pan cars with the bodys on?

Last edited by kh15; 01-23-2005 at 11:17 PM.
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Old 01-23-2005, 11:14 PM   #10436
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I have had a Quantum Comp 2 ESC come apart on my 12th scale car only.

Matt Francis suggested that I wrap all my QC2s all the way around their perimeter with reinforced battery tape...That took care of the issue.
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Last edited by JRX-S Bill; 01-23-2005 at 11:39 PM.
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Old 01-23-2005, 11:22 PM   #10437
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Quote:
Originally posted by kh15
im really getting interested into this 1/12 scale on road stuff and i was wondering of any website that are dedicated to it? one that i could go to and just read up on this area of r/c so i dont have to ask a million questions?
and the car i like is the AE rc12l4 pan car its really got some nice features and i think it will be a good car for a newbie like me!
Just scan through the pages of this forum for a lot of insight into 1/12th scale.

Also go to http://home.comcast.net/~mlufaso/rc/ Hmmmm...Not working now.

Just a couple months ago, I started with a slightly used 12L3 and have been doing pretty well with that. Just got a new 12L4 put together this week and it was immediately 1-2 laps to the good during an 8 minute run. Just set it up exactly per the assembly instructions and put on some CRC lowered rear side pods for a killer machine. You are going to love this car.
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Last edited by JRX-S Bill; 01-23-2005 at 11:30 PM.
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Old 01-24-2005, 12:23 AM   #10438
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Here's some wicked 12th scales.




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Old 01-24-2005, 01:05 AM   #10439
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wow those are really nice! whats the yellow battery pack for?
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Old 01-24-2005, 02:28 AM   #10440
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It wasn't where the esc attaches to the chassis, it was the case of the esc itself. I guess it hit hard enough to make the two halves seperate. That must have then weakened the parts that hold the two halves together.
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