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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 01-19-2005, 08:20 PM   #10381
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Default t bar

yea thanks I'll try that nut thing I just busted mine and I'll do it that way this time!!!
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Old 01-19-2005, 08:24 PM   #10382
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Default Re: t bar

Quote:
Originally posted by lespaul
I beveled mine back about 1/8 inch runing a 35 pinion
I just checked my car, IRS RugRat, and can get up to a 100x39 without any mods to the T-Bar.
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Old 01-19-2005, 08:25 PM   #10383
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gray rears, i think pink fronts, .018 front springs, silver center spring, 30 wt oil, and its a decently highbite track. I Have all the tracktion i need, but just was wondering what I can do for a little more on power sterring
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Old 01-19-2005, 08:28 PM   #10384
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from the setup, it sounds like you should have plenty of steering coming out. i would try the sauce...
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Old 01-19-2005, 11:33 PM   #10385
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hey guys. it time to replace my L3. and im undecided on which one to get. im leaning towards the corally sp12 anoheim edition since thats what the fast guys are running at my local track. do u guys have any recommendations? whats the fast car in ur track?
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Old 01-20-2005, 07:21 AM   #10386
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Quote:
Originally posted by Switch Blade
gray rears, i think pink fronts, .018 front springs, silver center spring, 30 wt oil, and its a decently highbite track. I Have all the tracktion i need, but just was wondering what I can do for a little more on power sterring
If your rear pod has some droop, try running it with a little less or even flat. This should give you more on power front bite.
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Old 01-20-2005, 08:20 AM   #10387
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If you want to put shims under the rear T-bar pivot, do you shave off some material of the standoff that's mounted on top of the pivot? What effect on the handling should I be looking for when I try that?
I am looking for some more steering , specially on corner entry. I run on a very high-traction track. I use an L4 with CRC grey rears and CRC or TRC purple fronts. I have tried using more traction compound up front, but was met with traction rolling. Using a more aggressive steer body made my car traction roll. (I switched from a P35 to a protoform bently).
I installed 40wt shock in the center shock in stead of 30, but that also made me traction roll. Applying a little less traction compound on front cured that. But I was back where I started that way.
I ended up with a very stable car, that lacked slight corner speed compared to the really fast guys, especially on corner entry.
I used the following setup:
Front:
20 springs,
-1.5degree camber,
-maximum turn-in castor setting.
Center:
-40Wt oil,
-Blue spring.
Damper discs:
-used Corally soft damper fluid.
Diff turned a little stiff (increased rotation of the car)
-Batteries in front position.
traction compound:
Rear full,
Front 1/4
Chassis/Tbar rake:
level
T-bar type:
.075

I want to try the following:
Smooth diff (less bearing wear)
30Wt center shock with silver spring
1 kingpin shim under front Tbar pivot
20Wt shock oil on damper discs.
Traction compound to front tire so that the car doesn't roll.
Perhaps I'll try less rear traction compound.
Any idea's/suggestions?
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Old 01-20-2005, 08:41 AM   #10388
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Default

Quote:
Originally posted by Pro ten Holland
If you want to put shims under the rear T-bar pivot, do you shave off some material of the standoff that's mounted on top of the pivot? What effect on the handling should I be looking for when I try that?
I am looking for some more steering , specially on corner entry. I run on a very high-traction track. I use an L4 with CRC grey rears and CRC or TRC purple fronts. I have tried using more traction compound up front, but was met with traction rolling. Using a more aggressive steer body made my car traction roll. (I switched from a P35 to a protoform bently).
I installed 40wt shock in the center shock in stead of 30, but that also made me traction roll. Applying a little less traction compound on front cured that. But I was back where I started that way.
...........
I have played with the shim thickness between the T-bar and the rear pod plate mount a little bit, but not enough to get a real good feel for it. The little bit it did play with it felt as if going to a thinner shim or even no shim's at all, between the T-bar and rear pod took steering away and added more rear traction. I have added a small shim, maybe .030" under the front T-Bar mount to the chassis and that added a little more rear traction. The thickness between the rear of the t-bar and and rear pod seems to be a more drastic change. I have not tried thicker shims than stock. You have to be careful on ride height changing that shim. Set your ride height off the chassis and not the rear pod.

I usually adjust the car to get more steering by going to a stiffer shock spring and thicker damper disk lube.

The few times I've had traction rolling problems was usally cured with using a smaller diameter front tire

take care
john
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Old 01-20-2005, 10:03 AM   #10389
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Pro10H,

try super small front tires. That should stop traction rolling. If you don't go over 3.5mm ride height.
For more steering, you either put the caster back to the middle pos, (std setting), or you start putting thin shims between the *front* T-bar pivot and the chassis.
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Old 01-20-2005, 10:10 AM   #10390
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Quote:
Originally posted by Pro ten Holland
If you want to put shims under the rear T-bar pivot, do you shave off some material of the standoff that's mounted on top of the pivot? What effect on the handling should I be looking for when I try that?
I am looking for some more steering , specially on corner entry. I run on a very high-traction track. I use an L4 with CRC grey rears and CRC or TRC purple fronts. I have tried using more traction compound up front, but was met with traction rolling. Using a more aggressive steer body made my car traction roll. (I switched from a P35 to a protoform bently).
I installed 40wt shock in the center shock in stead of 30, but that also made me traction roll. Applying a little less traction compound on front cured that. But I was back where I started that way.
I ended up with a very stable car, that lacked slight corner speed compared to the really fast guys, especially on corner entry.
I used the following setup:
Front:
20 springs,
-1.5degree camber,
-maximum turn-in castor setting.
Center:
-40Wt oil,
-Blue spring.
Damper discs:
-used Corally soft damper fluid.
Diff turned a little stiff (increased rotation of the car)
-Batteries in front position.
traction compound:
Rear full,
Front 1/4
Chassis/Tbar rake:
level
T-bar type:
.075

I want to try the following:
Smooth diff (less bearing wear)
30Wt center shock with silver spring
1 kingpin shim under front Tbar pivot
20Wt shock oil on damper discs.
Traction compound to front tire so that the car doesn't roll.
Perhaps I'll try less rear traction compound.
Any idea's/suggestions?
Letís address your traction roll problem first. JohnB is correct in saying to reduce the front tire diameter helps eliminate traction rolling. I now start a brand new set of front tires at 43mm and the rears at 45. With the new IRS rear ride height adjusters and a variety of front ride height washers, you can maintain a 3.0 rear to 3.5 front ride height with small diameter tires. If your car is still traction rolling after doing that, then super glue the outside side wall of the front tire as traction rolling is cause by the front tire catching the edge of the tire on the carpet and making the car flip.

As far as maintaining momentum in the corners, there are lots of theories on that. I set all of my cars up with a very stiff setup. Rear shock 50 wt. oil with a black Speed Merchant spring equivalent to a stiff silver spring. The side dampener tubes have Trinity hydra drive grease in them and the side springs are purple. The stiffest available. The front of the car has 22 springs, four degrees of caster and about one degree of negative camber. I have the steering rate turned down to about 35 percent. All of this in an effort to get the car to maintain its speed in the corners. But while all of that helped I found the biggest improvement in making my car much faster in the corners with removing weight from the car. ROARís minimum weight for four cell 1/12th is 795 grams. My cars always hovered around the 830 range. I made a conscious effort to remove every bit of weight I could and now my car weighs in at around 813 in modified with a receiver pack and it is under weight in stock without a receiver pack. Big change in my lap times now and my run time has greatly improved. I am only about one to two tenths off of the fastest drivers which can be made up with better lines on the track.
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Old 01-20-2005, 11:32 AM   #10391
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Hi guys!

what would be a good setup for the L4 on carpet with a stock motor? thanks!

-Lee
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Old 01-20-2005, 11:41 AM   #10392
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Quote:
Originally posted by Leester
Hi guys!

what would be a good setup for the L4 on carpet with a stock motor? thanks!

-Lee
I am using the stock setup with the l4 and it is very fast. We have the birds layout and the stock l4 setup is yielding 44-46 laps. This would put it very competative on the birds track.
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Old 01-20-2005, 11:51 AM   #10393
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I agree with Yang-stright up stuff-its as much in the application of the set-up as it is the set-up. So make sure you get everything perfect!!!

But in case you dont have a manual:

Front
Parma Purple tires. Sauce half to start.
10 caster mounts, middle.
MOunt servo flat and forward (you will need to cut off one ear and maybe trim the lower arm for clearance).
0-toe out, 2 deg camber.

0.020 front spring


T-bar-start with a 0.06, but have a 0.07 handy too. IRS teflon coated Pillow balls help smooth the t-bar immensley

Shock-30 wt AE oil and green spring.

rear axle max ROAR with (6.77")

Parma PInk or Grey if bite allows. IN other words-if car goes loose on you during run-run pink. If car doesnt come loose for full 8-minutes-run Grey.

Parma Speed 8 body.

try and run car flat as a board at 4mm to start. As tires wear-you should naturally drop a bt every run. Raise car back up when you start to get a lot of goo on bottom of chassis.

HOpe this helps,
Ray
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Old 01-20-2005, 12:01 PM   #10394
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i am new at 1/12 only 2 months. But Ray has the exact setup I run. the only difference is I run at 3.5, I started running .22 springs in front this past week, and I am cheap so run my front tires starting at 46 and rear, I don't even cut down. I do true them as they wear. I am told it will be faster as they get smaller. But everything Ray has posted is spot on. Even down the the irs balls.

On another note. If you don't want to works so hard on maintaining the same ride height run after run on the same day, Have serveral sets of tires. I notice that my front don't wear down much, but my rears do. So I have 2 sets of fronts and 4 sets of rears. At the beginning of the day, I true the fronts to all the same and the rears to all the same, then set ride height and change rears every run and rotate the fronts.
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Old 01-20-2005, 12:07 PM   #10395
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Default speed 12 vs protoform ascari

I have been running the speed 12 for the lat 2 months, but i needed a change in my body this past week and the hobbyshop only have ascari bodies. I quickly sprayed one up and mounted it. The thing had no steering on the fast sweeper but was fast in the infield. What we found was that the body has just too much rear down force that the front of the body was lifting at speeds so it reduced the amount of steering when you were on throttle. To solve this we cut the cutouts in the rear of the body and this made the car very responsive. It was quick all around.

I am sure the veterans know this, but I have been seeing soo many newbies (including myself) in this thread, thought I would post this to help out.

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