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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 01-18-2005, 03:10 PM   #10336
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Steve,

Put the wheels on and see if the color code labels are rubbing against the kingpins, thats usually my problem.

Chris
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Old 01-18-2005, 03:18 PM   #10337
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Chris,
It feels like something is hitting the spokes on the inside of the wheel. Whatever it is it stops the wheel from turning at all. I thought about trying to put spacers in there but if I do that there isn't enough room for the e-clip to attach the wheel.

Steve
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Old 01-18-2005, 03:22 PM   #10338
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Hi Steve,

The threaded axles are by far the better way to go....

Ok, I spotted it just now, your hubs are the wrong way around. The axle needs to come through from the other side. You will find they are on the wrong side too.

Chris
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Old 01-18-2005, 03:23 PM   #10339
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steve, i had the same problem when i didn't run the plastic washer. once i put it on though, it solved th problem so i'm kinda stumped. the only difference is i run threaded front pins as opposed to the eclips. you may want to give that a try. i like them better then the e-clips anyway. they tend to pop off if you hit something or someone the right way.
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Old 01-18-2005, 03:25 PM   #10340
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ah yes, your right chris, that should take care of things... don't know how i missed that!
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Old 01-18-2005, 04:34 PM   #10341
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Thanks guys. Where do I get the threaded front pins?
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Old 01-18-2005, 04:36 PM   #10342
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It's always those "duh" kinda things. Don't ask me how many times I've done that. . .

just make sure you didn't reverse the entire assembly! It's not difficult to put the assy together and then stick it on the wrong side of the car (just flip the axle carrier around. . .)
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Old 01-18-2005, 04:48 PM   #10343
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Default Re: Greatest advancement in 12th scale!!!

Quote:
Originally posted by rayhuang
Hey all-I just saw possibly the best thing to happen to 12th scale since I have been in the hobby. IRS has produced an entire package of rear bearing/ride height adjusters in very small increments!! Now you can run your tires 2 or 3x and chnage pills and be right back to where you were. No more having to run your big tires WAY down to make it to the next pill.

I will post links if I find them-but I am sure an e-mail to Dave at Irrgang will be enough. I think they are alreday available!! They looks like a stiffer material than the AE ones too-so the bearing/axle should spin longer.

Ray
I agree with you, Ray! I got the complete set and it's great to be able to maintain a consistent ride height regardless of your tire diameter. They are available on the IRS web site.
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Old 01-18-2005, 04:59 PM   #10344
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Quote:
Originally posted by SteveB
Thanks guys. Where do I get the threaded front pins?
http://www.lunsfordracing.com/catalo...2_products.htm

Try the above web site from Lundsford. Depending on what front end you are using, old style vs: dynamic strut, you may have to grind away a little of the upright on the old style front end to clear the nut on the back of the spindle. My Buddy just cuts off the portion of the spindle that the nut threads onto and super glues the spindle into the steering block. Either way works.
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Old 01-18-2005, 06:05 PM   #10345
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Has anyone tried putting inline axles and how does it affect the handling for the car? I know it will increase the wheel base plus it centers the axles on the wheels which also places the kingpins center.
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Old 01-18-2005, 06:41 PM   #10346
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Hello to all,

I am new to RC. I was going to get into 1/10 TC but I went with 1/12 because I happened to stop by a race one night and I saw them racing and I think that did me in. They are also cheaper which for a college student means a lot. I purchased a Corally SP12M Ahoniemi version and I hope to be racing by the summer. Still need all the electronics. So from time to time I might be asking questions on this forum.
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Old 01-18-2005, 06:53 PM   #10347
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Quote:
Originally posted by Sohlman113
Hello to all,

I am new to RC. I was going to get into 1/10 TC but I went with 1/12 because I happened to stop by a race one night and I saw them racing and I think that did me in. They are also cheaper which for a college student means a lot. I purchased a Corally SP12M Ahoniemi version and I hope to be racing by the summer. Still need all the electronics. So from time to time I might be asking questions on this forum.
a bunch of us do racing 1/10 and 1/12 at willis hobbies we have our own forum under RACING FORUM stop by we will all be glad to help you out. most of us flop back and forth from either the willis track of the south shore track... Good Luck!!!!!
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Old 01-18-2005, 06:56 PM   #10348
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The only problem is willis isnt open in the summer.....
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Old 01-18-2005, 07:04 PM   #10349
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yea it is hahahahaa we just dont tell you hahahahaha
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Old 01-18-2005, 07:08 PM   #10350
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OoOoOOoOoOOooO I guess I have to be a willis big shot
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