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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 01-16-2005, 09:03 PM   #10306
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Default

I tried to center it better but I don't have anymore adjustment to move it to the right, so I have more throw on one side than the other, is it the servo? or a kit fupa. new to 1/12 so I don't know how much it is going to effect me at my current driving level if you know what I mean.
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Old 01-16-2005, 09:23 PM   #10307
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Default Re: Roll Out Calculator

Quote:
Originally posted by rskiba
Does anyone know if there is software for a Windows CE handheld that will calculate rollout?

Thx. Rob.
You might want to check with dr_hufhurr(sp?) on here...he did one up a while back..and I don't know if he was marketing it or if it was just used as a personal tool..

I had done a basic Pocket Excel spreadsheet to calculate rollout given pinon spur and tire size, as weill as calculate required pinion gven spur, tire and desired rollout...

Dr_h's also included allowances for internal driv ratios for touring cars as well
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Old 01-16-2005, 09:29 PM   #10308
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Default Adrian

What do you mean:

"The is asphalt so we run .063" T's with the rear edge filed at a 45deg angle."

I have that same motor and will try that combination at Speedline next weekend.

Are you going to try the purple fronts and pink rears as the other guy suggested?
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Old 01-16-2005, 09:45 PM   #10309
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Default Re: Adrian

Quote:
Originally posted by bashbrook
What do you mean:

"The is asphalt so we run .063" T's with the rear edge filed at a 45deg angle."

I have that same motor and will try that combination at Speedline next weekend.

Are you going to try the purple fronts and pink rears as the other guy suggested?
The word "track" is missing after "The...".
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Old 01-16-2005, 10:20 PM   #10310
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Default Re: Re: Roll Out Calculator

Quote:
Originally posted by Windsorguy99
You might want to check with dr_hufhurr(sp?) on here...he did one up a while back..and I don't know if he was marketing it or if it was just used as a personal tool..

I had done a basic Pocket Excel spreadsheet to calculate rollout given pinon spur and tire size, as weill as calculate required pinion gven spur, tire and desired rollout...

Dr_h's also included allowances for internal driv ratios for touring cars as well
I race with dr_hfuhuhurr. Here is a link to his website. The rollout calculator is still there.

2brainsdesigns
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Old 01-17-2005, 04:49 AM   #10311
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Default associated 12L4

I regret I have to sell an assembled 12L4 team car with body...if your interested you can email me at JJM591@aol.com......
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Old 01-17-2005, 05:51 AM   #10312
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Quote:
Originally posted by lespaul
I tried to center it better but I don't have anymore adjustment to move it to the right, so I have more throw on one side than the other, is it the servo? or a kit fupa. new to 1/12 so I don't know how much it is going to effect me at my current driving level if you know what I mean.
How much is it off centered by? I had the same problem trying to centre my JR3550 into my 12L4 and it is still off centred my a millimetre or two. All of the fast guys at my local track say its better to have it completely centred but I've fond that its just as good the way I have it. If you want to solve the problem try switching to CRC servo mounts. They have a bigger range of adjustability then the associated ones do. Hope this helps.
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Old 01-17-2005, 09:00 AM   #10313
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Default Re: steering

Quote:
Originally posted by lespaul
just bought a 12L4 and noticed that one of the steering arms is longer than the other did I buy the wrong servo, or is it normal to have to mod it to get the servo centered. The next question I have is how critical is it because I dont need all the servo through anyway
What servo do you have?
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Old 01-17-2005, 10:00 AM   #10314
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Does anyone know if there is a aluminum damper post available for a 12L4? The composite one that comes in the kit seems to strip out easily. I solved the problem by using longer screws. But, I would like to find an alternative.
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Old 01-17-2005, 10:38 AM   #10315
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Default Tire Weight

I have Jaco greys, and I have TRC Granites.
I've noticed that the TRC's seem way lighter. The difference in accelleration is remarkable! For a given tire diam, I find that TRC's give me superior accelleration.

On closer inspection, the Jaco Grey foam seems to be very dense; the cells are much smaller. TRC Granite (Black + Grey, right?) has much more 'open' cells. And it feels much softer. (Don't have a durometer here)

Can anyone confirm this?

On a side note: the 'magical', unobtainable rear tires Masami used to win the Worlds, and the previous worlds, are not that illusive, they're in the Yokomo catalog.
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Old 01-17-2005, 10:07 PM   #10316
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I think the rumors of unobtainable tires are just that, Masami is just a wheel. I know the CRC guys in the A-main (Groskamp and Rheinard) at the worlds were running CRC Magenta front and rear. No 'magical', unobtainable tires, just standard off the shelf product.

Quote:
ran my CRC for the first time last night in a race. Weather condition (very cold and windy) was not to good so I wasn't sure if I had the right tire combo. I am getting ready for our state series race and need to know what is a good tire combo for outdoors. Most tracks will be asphault and a few parking lot. I had magneta fronts and grey rears. I could tell the fronts stick but I kept losing the rearend.
Try purple front and pink rears. The Magenta fronts will steer more if you end up needing more. Pink is the best choice on cold pavement for the rear.
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Old 01-18-2005, 12:58 AM   #10317
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Anyone know the driving characteristics between the Parma EXP Speed 8 vs. the Protofrom Speed 12 GTP? What's better for technical track, for outdoors, and/or for high speed tracks?
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Old 01-18-2005, 01:28 AM   #10318
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speed 8 is more neutral overall. the speed 12 has more front down force yielding more steering. i prefer the neutral feel of the speed 8 and tuning the chassis instead.
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Old 01-18-2005, 10:36 AM   #10319
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Quote:
Originally posted by dmatter
What's Up, Ian? Hope to See You and Pulfer this Sunday at Platinum. I don't Think I could have gone 2 Laps Faster Without You guys! Thanks for all the Set Up and Driving Advice. You guys are the set Up Wizards... Dax
All in a days work Dax. You're one of the few guys who listens to what we say and applies it, rather than just slapping it on the car. If you have anymore questions feel free to ask.
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Old 01-18-2005, 11:27 AM   #10320
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Default Greatest advancement in 12th scale!!!

Hey all-I just saw possibly the best thing to happen to 12th scale since I have been in the hobby. IRS has produced an entire package of rear bearing/ride height adjusters in very small increments!! Now you can run your tires 2 or 3x and chnage pills and be right back to where you were. No more having to run your big tires WAY down to make it to the next pill.

I will post links if I find them-but I am sure an e-mail to Dave at Irrgang will be enough. I think they are alreday available!! They looks like a stiffer material than the AE ones too-so the bearing/axle should spin longer.

Ray
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