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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 01-15-2005, 03:26 PM   #10276
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Default HELP with ASSEMBLY

I recently acquired a 12L3 in a trade and I am having a devil of a time getting the spur and pinion on. I am down to a 75 or 72 spur gear and still can't get a pinion on the motor. There is not enough room with nut on the tbar preventing me from moving the motor any further away. My offset is a 2 but my ride height is a little low from what I have been reading at 3.5. Do I need a different offset, remove the nut on the tbar, what do I need to do?

Help!
Brad
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Old 01-15-2005, 04:32 PM   #10277
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you need to grind it down with a dremel.
You should be able to get ex: 100/33 max and 96/37 in there buy grinding down the tplate and nut.
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Old 01-15-2005, 05:52 PM   #10278
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Default Re: HELP with ASSEMBLY

Quote:
Originally posted by bashbrook
I recently acquired a 12L3 in a trade and I am having a devil of a time getting the spur and pinion on. I am down to a 75 or 72 spur gear and still can't get a pinion on the motor. There is not enough room with nut on the tbar preventing me from moving the motor any further away. My offset is a 2 but my ride height is a little low from what I have been reading at 3.5. Do I need a different offset, remove the nut on the tbar, what do I need to do?

Help!
Brad
I assume you are using 48 pitch gears, with a 75 I have used up to a 17T pinion but could probably squeeze a 18 in there
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Old 01-15-2005, 09:01 PM   #10279
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Quote:
Originally posted by SteveB
Wow, I didn't realize how old this thread is until I started looking for some of the servo numbers listed early on. I'm down to two things now, I need a servo for the car and a power supply for the battery charger.
Any one have suggestions?
Before choosing a power supply you first need to establish what amperage output the power supply needs to provide to meet all of your needs. If you are going to be using two chargers and you charge your batteries at 5 amps, then you need a power supply that would have an out put of a little over 10 amps. If you charge at 6 amps then the power supply needs to be at least 13 amps of out put. If you have a tire truer, com lathe, Novak discharge tray, etc. then obviously you will need a power supply that will power up all of your equipment.

We use the Rivergate REC30 which puts out 30 amps and also has a second out put that is adjustable for breaking in motors. While they are not cheap, $245.00 on line direct from Rivergate, they will more than meet any of your current needs and probably any needs you might have in the future. We power our Competition Electronics 35, a Hudy com lathe, a Hudy tire truer as well as two Novak chargers and discharge tray without worry. Sometimes we even have all the equipment going at the same time and it never falters.

Check them out.

http://www.rivergatedist.com/adjustnew.htm
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Old 01-15-2005, 09:13 PM   #10280
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Default just got as12l4

this car is faster than my tc3, have a question though, saw that you want tough in or 0 tough my turn buckels are the whole way in and I have alittle tough out do I have to mod it
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Old 01-15-2005, 09:17 PM   #10281
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Default as12l4

cool car just bought it any help with set up 4 cell stock motors
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Old 01-15-2005, 09:55 PM   #10282
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lespaul
12th scale is faster then TC by nature. As far as setup, here is mine for local club races. I race on a med/high bite track, the ozite is layed on concrete making it a little slick depending on the weather. but anyways

Front
.20 springs
10 degree blocks
-1 degree camber
Tires- Purple or Cyan depending on traction
Tire Diameter-1.75"<-starting
ride height-3mm

rear
0.75 t-bar with graphite brace
two spacers on rear pod
green center sping with 35 wt oil
Tires-Grey or Granite depending on traction
Tire diameter-1.85"<-starting (I run irs lowered pod plates)
ride height-3.5mm
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Old 01-15-2005, 10:12 PM   #10283
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thanks for the info!!
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Old 01-15-2005, 10:26 PM   #10284
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The reason I tried a 75 and 72 was because I they take smaller pinions. I have more smaller 48p than I do 64p pinions. I still can't figure out how to get more room back there. The pros obviously have since they run 100p spurs.

Grind it down with a dremel, seems pretty extreme?

The 17 or 18 is way off from what the manual recommends for a 27t motor. I recommends 26 and I will be running 19t motors for the series. That would put it about 23 or 24.
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Old 01-15-2005, 10:36 PM   #10285
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bashbrook
if you take the center spacer out of the t-bar (most guys run there car with only two spacers anyways.) you can fit up to a 28 maybe 29 with 100 tooth spur. But you can also file the back of the t-bar at a 45 degree angle to allow the motor to move further forward. It's not as extreme as it sounds and will allow for 1 or 2 two tooth larger pinion to be run. you could also drop down in spur size (96 tooth) to get the same roll out with a smaller pinion. unless your track is gigantic, this is all the gear you will ever need.
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Old 01-15-2005, 10:45 PM   #10286
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Thanks for the additional info, I will try it tomorrow without the center nut. It 12:45 here and I am going to bed.
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Old 01-16-2005, 05:28 AM   #10287
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You can try the kimbrough offsets. I run a L4 in oval and had problems with gearing since I use 48 pitch. You can move the axle forward or back depending on how you place it. If you put it in the back you'll gain the space with the spur but you'll also increase your wheel base. Not sure how this affects 1/12. Here's a link http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXS473&P=7
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Old 01-16-2005, 08:59 AM   #10288
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Another driver had mentioned those as well and I will try to track a set down. I have a 0,1 and 2 but not sure if these are the same that comes in the kit.
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Old 01-16-2005, 10:11 AM   #10289
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Default Re: HELP with ASSEMBLY

Quote:
Originally posted by bashbrook
I recently acquired a 12L3 in a trade and I am having a devil of a time getting the spur and pinion on. I am down to a 75 or 72 spur gear and still can't get a pinion on the motor. There is not enough room with nut on the tbar preventing me from moving the motor any further away. My offset is a 2 but my ride height is a little low from what I have been reading at 3.5. Do I need a different offset, remove the nut on the tbar, what do I need to do?

Help!
Brad
Brad,

I never see anyone using 48 pitch gearing on their 12th scale cars...including the 12L3.

Try a 96 tooth/64 pitch Kimbrough spur gear in 64 pitch with 64 pitch pinions. Initially, you could start of with 3-5 pinion sizes to cover the range you need. You would have to talk with others at your track to see what gearing works for the motor you run. They will give you rollout numbers and you will have to learn that as opposed to just gearing ratios. The only way to go.

Yes, leave out the center t-bar screw/spacer/net and use a small file through the bottom opening to file the back of the t-bar to a 45 degree angle. This will give you the maximum amount of room for larger spurs.
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Old 01-16-2005, 10:25 AM   #10290
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I ran a 100 tooth spur on my 12L3 last weekend and setting the gear mesh was slightly difficult. I was told to do the same 45 degree shaving method......although I feel that if I go to the 96 spur I shouldn't have any problems. Just match up you 75 tooth 48p spur with a 96 tooth 64p spur for a size reference and go from there. There has to be a reason why you're using 48P equipment so let's make it work for you rather than tell you to go out and get 64p stuff.
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