R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

    Hide Wikipost
Old 10-28-2016, 12:43 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: 1/12 forum
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: fenton06
This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

Print Wikipost

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 01-12-2005, 09:25 PM   #10246
Tech Champion
 
Still Bill's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Reno, NV
Posts: 7,016
Trader Rating: 11 (100%+)
Default Re: IRS ride height adjusters

Quote:
Originally posted by fatdoggy
Simply put they are friggin awsome.
(Deleted)
__________________
Constantly evolving CRC WGT and WGT-R/T...Carpet & Asphalt...All thanks to Team CRC.

Last edited by JRX-S Bill; 01-15-2005 at 08:51 AM.
Still Bill is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-13-2005, 07:03 AM   #10247
Tech Fanatic
 
crimson eagle's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Nor Cal
Posts: 841
Send a message via ICQ to crimson eagle
Default

Bill,

I raced in Scotland a few times and it's very...... Interesting. First I'd like to know what class you will be running but I do have a few general things for you.

Talk to the people in tech, when I was there one of my friends had a car underweight, they did not tell him this just disqualified his times up until the last round when he found out by looking at his results and seeing his name at the bottom of the list.

Take some very warm clothing, it will be freaking freezing there.

Try not to be too friendly with the local women, the local guys might beat the crap out of you.

Whatever you do, do not agree to join the Haggis hunt.

Try some of the local beer, in the UK, anywhere North of Manchester the beer is pretty good. South of there I think they put it in the microwave first.

Good luck
crimson eagle is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-13-2005, 08:11 AM   #10248
Tech Elite
 
lem2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: OC
Posts: 3,061
Trader Rating: 6 (100%+)
Default Re: 12l3 or 4 Bumpers?

Quote:
Originally posted by kaizen
Hey All,

Can anyone tell me what I can do to protect the front end of my 12l3 Rug Rat? Is there an associated part that perhaps bolts under the body mounts and provides some basic protection of the front end? Or a small aftermarket bumper of some sort? Any suggestions appreciated.

Thanks.
How's this? I used a CRC bumper and reposition the body mounts.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg bumper.jpg (124.1 KB, 243 views)
lem2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-13-2005, 08:55 AM   #10249
Tech Elite
 
strodedawg's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Philly, PA
Posts: 2,179
Trader Rating: 42 (100%+)
Default

cross racing makes a tweak free pivot for the the t-bar of a 1/12th scale. does anyone have a part number and distributor for this part? thanks
strodedawg is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-13-2005, 07:59 PM   #10250
Tech Elite
 
fatdoggy's Avatar
R/C Tech Charter Subscriber
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: MD USA
Posts: 3,642
Default

What is the effect of the 5* and 0* steering blocks in regards to high speed and low speed steering? Also entry and exit feel for each? I'm currently running 10* blocks and am looking for more controlled rotation. My current spring/damping setup is,

Silver shock spring
Purple stuff on disks
dbl. pink ft's
white rears
2 holes on T-plate(have installed the 3rd but hav'nt run it yet)
10* steering blocks
batt's foward
.20 ft springs
purple stuff on ft kingpins

Thanks.

Last edited by fatdoggy; 01-13-2005 at 08:04 PM.
fatdoggy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-13-2005, 09:20 PM   #10251
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Indianapolis, IN
Posts: 864
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by fatdoggy
What is the effect of the 5* and 0* steering blocks in regards to high speed and low speed steering? Also entry and exit feel for each? I'm currently running 10* blocks and am looking for more controlled rotation. My current spring/damping setup is,

Silver shock spring
Purple stuff on disks
dbl. pink ft's
white rears
2 holes on T-plate(have installed the 3rd but hav'nt run it yet)
10* steering blocks
batt's foward
.20 ft springs
purple stuff on ft kingpins

Thanks.
Look at all the purple stuff. That's a lot of dampening.
davidl is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-14-2005, 12:15 PM   #10252
Tech Master
 
Guo Chean's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Indiana, PA15701
Posts: 1,492
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Send a message via ICQ to Guo Chean Send a message via Yahoo to Guo Chean
Talking 1/12 ride height and tire diameter

hi i new with 1/12 scale may i know that normally how high of the ride height for 1/12 scale and normally what tire diameter will be used in order for a good handling. thanks
__________________
[FONT=Comic Sans MS][SIZE=3][COLOR=red]|HotBodies|HPI|Full Throttle Motorsports|KO PROPO|DSM|Nosram|JACO|MUCH MORE RACING|Schacht Design Works|[/COLOR][/SIZE][/FONT]
Guo Chean is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-14-2005, 01:01 PM   #10253
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 814
Default Re: 1/12 ride height and tire diameter

Quote:
Originally posted by Guo Chean
hi i new with 1/12 scale may i know that normally how high of the ride height for 1/12 scale and normally what tire diameter will be used in order for a good handling. thanks
Front tire diameter - 45mm
Rear tire diameter - 47mm

Front ride height measured at front leading edge of chassis - 3.5mm
Rear ride height measured at trailing edge of lower motor pod plate - 3.0
Crashby is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-14-2005, 02:16 PM   #10254
Tech Fanatic
 
revzalot's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Nor * Cal
Posts: 959
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default Newbie 12L4 observations

Almost done with the 12L4 construction and I have to say these cars are constructed efficiently. I've seen kits with too much unecessary alloy, plastic, and fastener parts. Sometimes less is more. A couple of things I want to add for people building the 12L4. The front hinge and king pins have to be polished for optimal performance. I used Blue Magic polish with a dremel and rag and now the suspension and steering is slick. For the rear top deck, I added some teflon tape per Lufaso's instructions. Don't put too much diff grease when assembling the rear axle. What range of pinions should I get for the 100t spur using a Monster Stock Motor?
__________________
www.revzalotmotorsports.com
revzalot is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-14-2005, 03:12 PM   #10255
Tech Master
 
Hyperform Racing's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location:
Posts: 1,195
Default

revzalot
the 12l4 is a great car, you're going to be real happy with it. as far as pinions, depending on track size and tire diameter, 25 thru 30 should take care of things. You will need to grind a little off the t-bar to keep the motor from hitting the pod with the larger pinions.
Hyperform Racing is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-14-2005, 06:13 PM   #10256
Tech Elite
 
CypressMidWest's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Central Ohio
Posts: 4,603
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default Re: Newbie 12L4 observations

Quote:
Originally posted by revzalot
What range of pinions should I get for the 100t spur using a Monster Stock Motor?
It really depends on tire and track size. But 25-35 would be a good selection to have on hand to start out.
__________________
Team CRC, Access Race Place, US Indoor Champs, CD SUPERPRO, RK Designs, Cypress, Founder and lead instructor of the Ian Ruggles Negative Reinforcement Driver Training Program, enroll now.....
CypressMidWest is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-14-2005, 06:45 PM   #10257
Tech Fanatic
 
dmatter's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Galloway, Ohio
Posts: 860
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

What's Up, Ian? Hope to See You and Pulfer this Sunday at Platinum. I don't Think I could have gone 2 Laps Faster Without You guys! Thanks for all the Set Up and Driving Advice. You guys are the set Up Wizards... Dax
dmatter is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-14-2005, 07:34 PM   #10258
Tech Elite
 
ALBERTO's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: LONG ISLAND, NEW YORK
Posts: 2,986
Trader Rating: 23 (96%+)
Send a message via AIM to ALBERTO Send a message via Yahoo to ALBERTO
Default Re: Newbie 12L4 observations

Quote:
Originally posted by revzalot
Almost done with the 12L4 construction and I have to say these cars are constructed efficiently. I've seen kits with too much unecessary alloy, plastic, and fastener parts. Sometimes less is more. A couple of things I want to add for people building the 12L4. The front hinge and king pins have to be polished for optimal performance. I used Blue Magic polish with a dremel and rag and now the suspension and steering is slick. For the rear top deck, I added some teflon tape per Lufaso's instructions. Don't put too much diff grease when assembling the rear axle. What range of pinions should I get for the 100t spur using a Monster Stock Motor?
what does the teflon tape do to the top deck and how did you put it on.. If you can post a pic that would be cool
__________________
still fishing
ALBERTO is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-14-2005, 08:08 PM   #10259
Tech Elite
 
fatdoggy's Avatar
R/C Tech Charter Subscriber
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: MD USA
Posts: 3,642
Default

ALBERTO - It just lets the disks ride a little smoother on the top deck. As long as you smooth the top deck's face and edges with fine sand paper it's not too important. The interesting thing is that although Lufaso has it on his website he doesn't actually use it any more on his L4.

revzalot - On a stock L4 with a 100T spur the max you can drop on is a 29t pinion(with only two screws on the T plate). With 3 screws on the T plate it will be even less. A 98t or 96t spur will give you a wider range for rollouts.
fatdoggy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-14-2005, 09:19 PM   #10260
Tech Fanatic
 
revzalot's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Nor * Cal
Posts: 959
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Alberto, I'll try to post pics when the kit is finished. I'd like to see other racer's setup as well. Fatdoggy, now that's a lot more options with 96 and 98. Do you have a system on how to optimise the rollout when you arrive at a new track and a handout motor?
__________________
www.revzalotmotorsports.com
revzalot is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
New to the forum mig rod Electric Off-Road 1 01-05-2008 05:23 PM
hi i need help and im new to the forum racer4 Rookie Zone 4 01-21-2007 02:37 PM
Why is this forum listed under the On Road Forum? sport10 Onroad Nitro Engine Zone 0 01-11-2007 08:06 AM
Forum Changes... futureal Wisconsin & Illinois Racing 3 10-28-2002 09:26 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 3 (0 members and 3 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 03:20 PM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net

SEO by vBSEO 3.5.0