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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 01-12-2005, 09:05 AM   #10216
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If the majority of the racers on your track either use Paragon or TQ, stick with what everyone else uses. Using Paragon on a track that is run majority by TQ coumpound or vice versa is a bad thing. Paragon and TQ are like oil and water, they don't mix.

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Old 01-12-2005, 09:12 AM   #10217
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Default effects of ackerman

what are the positive or negative (including any traction rolling tendencies on high bite carpet) of more versus less ackerman.

I am using old style front-end with the servo glued flat to the chassis.
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Old 01-12-2005, 09:28 AM   #10218
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timmay70,
Where is that track you speak of in SW NH?? Im from Brattleboro, VT originally and would love to have a place to race when I visit.
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Old 01-12-2005, 09:48 AM   #10219
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question for you guys. I have just run 1/12 for a short while and have noticed that my rear foams are coneing slightly. basically the inside is smaller then the outside. not by much maybe .1 mm. but still a little. is this normal wear? This is after 2 runs
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Old 01-12-2005, 10:07 AM   #10220
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i have the same thing going on, only its noticeable, and its my front tires not the rear, i should probably just adjust the camber but if im not mistaken i think i wasnt able to get that turnbuckle to tighten anymore.


this is with a 12l4, purple fronts, pink rears, and im traction rolling quite a bit

ive goten the traction rolling just about nixed, useing less sauce on the front tires, and coasting more before tight corners, but im much slower through the corners than the fast guys

i should probably adjust my ride height, but ive only ran 12th scale twice and just wanted to try it out before making to many changes
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Old 01-12-2005, 10:35 AM   #10221
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Quote:
Originally posted by primusblowsgoat
i have the same thing going on, only its noticeable, and its my front tires not the rear, i should probably just adjust the camber but if im not mistaken i think i wasnt able to get that turnbuckle to tighten anymore.


this is with a 12l4, purple fronts, pink rears, and im traction rolling quite a bit

ive goten the traction rolling just about nixed, useing less sauce on the front tires, and coasting more before tight corners, but im much slower through the corners than the fast guys

i should probably adjust my ride height, but ive only ran 12th scale twice and just wanted to try it out before making to many changes
If you need more room to adjust camber on the strut front end you can take the upper pivot ball holder off and shave some material off where the turnbuckle threads in. This will give you more room to adjust camber.

RE:your traction rolling problem-what is your ride height and tire diameters? You may want to try slightly smaller tires and glueing the sidewalls of the tires to help keep the tires from folding under during hard cornering.

-James
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Old 01-12-2005, 10:48 AM   #10222
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Quote:
Originally posted by primusblowsgoat
i have the same thing going on, only its noticeable, and its my front tires not the rear, i should probably just adjust the camber but if im not mistaken i think i wasnt able to get that turnbuckle to tighten anymore.


this is with a 12l4, purple fronts, pink rears, and im traction rolling quite a bit

ive goten the traction rolling just about nixed, useing less sauce on the front tires, and coasting more before tight corners, but im much slower through the corners than the fast guys

i should probably adjust my ride height, but ive only ran 12th scale twice and just wanted to try it out before making to many changes
fronts are ok for me. if you are coning on the inside, you have too much camber and you need to extend the top link not shorten it. I am able to get 1 degree fairly easily and really that is plenty of camber on teh front. I only sauce about half the front and actually ony put it on 10 min before.

I noticed on 1/12 that you can not drive it like a sedan. It is not just point and shoot at the corners. Line are really critical and can make .2-.4sec difference on lap time. The point and shoot method will cause tracktion roll problems. so just be smooth around the corners and look for the fast lines.
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Old 01-12-2005, 11:06 AM   #10223
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Default Re: effects of ackerman

Quote:
Originally posted by barrys
what are the positive or negative (including any traction rolling tendencies on high bite carpet) of more versus less ackerman.

I am using old style front-end with the servo glued flat to the chassis.
any perspectives?
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Old 01-12-2005, 11:12 AM   #10224
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Default Re: Re: effects of ackerman

Quote:
Originally posted by barrys
any perspectives?
Through my testing ackerman has little to no effect on traction rolling if the car is properly set-up. Traction rolling is most commonly caused by too much front traction. In most instances I've seen, people run a tire with too much grip up front, or run front suspension springs that are too soft, to make up for an over-abundance of rear grip. The car must be tuned on the whole rather than one end and then the other. It's all about balance.

I also run the old front end, servo flat, and I've tried DOZENS of Ackerman angles, and none seem to make the car any more or less prone to traction rolling, they just alter the steering feel of the car.
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Old 01-12-2005, 11:14 AM   #10225
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Default Re: Re: effects of ackerman

Quote:
Originally posted by barrys
any perspectives?
Ackerman will not cause a car to traction roll. Traction rolling is only caused by your outside front tire catching an edge. This causes the car to then flip.

You can prevent traction rolling by:

1. Reduction of front tire diameter
2. Stiffer front springs
3. Increased camber
4. Increased caster
5. Rounding the edges of the front tires
6. Super gluing the sidewall of the front tire
7. All of the above
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Old 01-12-2005, 11:15 AM   #10226
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Default ackerman

other than traction rolling, what do you see as the pros/cons or more or less ackerman in regards to steering feel?

thanks
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Old 01-12-2005, 11:17 AM   #10227
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Default Re: ackerman

Quote:
Originally posted by barrys
other than traction rolling, what do you see as the pros/cons or more or less ackerman in regards to steering feel?

thanks
The more ackerman, the more turn in the car will have.
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Old 01-12-2005, 11:20 AM   #10228
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Default another newbie question

Talking to a lot of top guys in sedan, they set their tc's up on the verge of tracktion rolling. they feel that this is the "fast" setup. as long as they are consistent in driving they don't have a problem. so is this true for a 1/12 setup as well. I have a very good setup, and very easy to drive. But am looking for more speed in the corners, so was wondeing if maybe my car is just too lazy and to "stuck" to the track.
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Old 01-12-2005, 11:36 AM   #10229
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AFTER first doing all the items specified below to minimize traction rolling, you then want to have the best combination of corner speed and rotation.

At most, assuming you start off with purple tires move to software magenta, cyan, tan or double-pink (depending on whose they are) tires to give you less push and more steering

However, don't go above 3mm ride height, etc.
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Old 01-12-2005, 11:42 AM   #10230
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Quote:
RE:your traction rolling problem-what is your ride height and tire diameters? You may want to try slightly smaller tires and glueing the sidewalls of the tires to help keep the tires from folding under during hard cornering.
i have glued the side walls, i have the ride height just as it said in the manual, only my tires are full size untrued
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