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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!


BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)


Enneti (Xceed)

As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.


If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick

  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020

  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


Reflex Racing/RSD:


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Old 01-09-2005, 07:06 AM   #10186
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Hey got a couple of questions, I bought a irs pro larger diff ring and whole axle setup. It was supposed to be the large d rings but I got these circle rings with a hole in them and a yellow tube looking thing, does the yellow tube go in those holes in the rings and the outdrives? Also is the irs rugrat conversion still woth buying
K.C. Guy. Team Xray - rc america
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Old 01-09-2005, 07:16 AM   #10187
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Originally posted by Tom V
Does anyone know of an aftermarket or option part that uses a nut instead of an e-clip for the front axle on a 12L4.
Is this what you need?
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Old 01-09-2005, 07:25 AM   #10188
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Front tire wear - How many runs do you guys usually get? Yesterday I had to cut a new set(jaco dbl pink) down to 45mm so they didn't rub the inside of the body, after 8 runs I'm at 3mm ride height without any spacers. 10 runs max seems a little rough. Parma(magenta) v.s. Jaco(dbl. pink) which has better tire wear?

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Old 01-09-2005, 08:06 AM   #10189
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Tony I have the same IRS diff. and it has worked very well for me. Yes the yellow pinning material does go throught the hub and flange to keep the drive rings from turning. With a drive ring sitting on the hub or flange push the pinning material in so it is just flush with the top of the drive ring. I think this type of diff is a older model but you can still get the drive rings when they need to be replaced. I was going to replace this unit with a D- ring type if it gave me any problems but has worked great so far. Hope this helps? Thanx Bill
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Old 01-09-2005, 08:41 AM   #10190
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Default IRS diff pinning kit

I use the IRS pinned diff setup in my Associated RC10L2 pro ten car. It works perfectly. I drilled 2.5mm holes in the axle hub and diff hub, and press-fitted the yellow wire into it. Make sure the yellow wire sits flush with or lower than the diff ring, otherwise your diff will bind.
It works just as good as the D-drive setup, but you don't need to buy other hubs or axles to make it work, just drill the holes!
If you need replacement diff rings order IRS511N. It includes 8diff rings, and some yellow wire.
Before you toss a diff ring sand it down on fine-gritt sandpaper, till the groove disappears. You can use the same diff rings a long long time that way, without any ill-effect on your diff action.
As far as I know, the Rug Rat still is a top-of-the-line kit. It should be on a par with most other aftermarket conversion kits, like those from IRS, speedmerchant and Dpowell.
Fatdoggy, have a look at these parts: IRS4014, on this page:
It's the usual Associated dynamic strut front arms, only machined to sit lower, so you can run your tires down to the rims.
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Old 01-09-2005, 04:19 PM   #10191
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Default Re: Re: 12l3 or 4 Bumpers?

Originally posted by JRX-S Bill
There is the HPI "mini" foam bumper that happens to fit on the 12L3 and 12L4. Maybe a bit hard to find; but, I saw one nicely used on a 12L4 today at the NorCal Carpet Champs in Stockton. Try Sheldons in San Jose.
Hmm, that might even be better. Thanks, Bill...btw - how did you do at the "Champs"? Most importantly, did Billy beat STLNLST? lol.
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Old 01-09-2005, 05:24 PM   #10192
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Pro ten Holland - Thanks.
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Old 01-09-2005, 07:22 PM   #10193
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Originally posted by Tom V
Does anyone know of an aftermarket or option part that uses a nut instead of an e-clip for the front axle on a 12L4.

still fishing

Last edited by ALBERTO; 01-10-2005 at 06:23 AM.
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Old 01-09-2005, 10:01 PM   #10194
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Originally posted by ALBERTO
Part number 8043.
Constantly evolving CRC WGT and WGT-R/T...Carpet & Asphalt...All thanks to Team CRC.
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Old 01-09-2005, 11:04 PM   #10195
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I've just finished the assemly of my L4 and have a question. I remember seeing something posted similiar to this before. The rear end assembly angles down from the main chassis a little bit. I've tried to adjust the shock length but that had no effect. I haven't put in the motor or wheels on yet, will that correct this in anyway? The instructions didn't tell how much oil to put in the shock and I was wondering if maybe I put too much in and that's causing the shock to push on the top shock mount which would then push down the back of the car.
You guys have been very helpful to me so far and I appreciate any ideas on this.
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Old 01-09-2005, 11:35 PM   #10196
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You can only measure this with your car ready to run: batteries, motor, tires everything in there. Put everything in there, put your car on a flat surface and push down on the damper disc posts a few times to make the car "set" itself. The best way to check this is with a ride height gauge, but you can come a long way just eyeballing the difference.
If the rear pod isn't level with the main chassis, adjust the black adjuster on the center shock to to adjust preload on the center spring so that your main chassis is level with the rear pod.
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Old 01-09-2005, 11:43 PM   #10197
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Parma also makes a threaded front axle....

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Old 01-10-2005, 01:06 AM   #10198
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Are those Parma axles made out of steel? I have used Bolink steel axles that looked the same, and they got bent easily in a crash.
I think titanium should hold up better, like the CRC and Lunsford versions. I haven't tried those yet, so any input on that is appreciated.
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Old 01-10-2005, 01:13 AM   #10199
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Guys, is there a site out there on the net with guides on 1/12 setup? A liittle like the XXXMain setup guide but for 1/12?

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Old 01-10-2005, 04:00 AM   #10200
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Originally posted by SteveB
. I've tried to adjust the shock length but that had no effect. I haven't put in the motor or wheels on yet, will that correct this in anyway? The instructions didn't tell how much oil to put in the shock and I was wondering if maybe I put too much in ......
Steve - Are you must be referring the discussion a few days ago about cutting the ball stud down to adjust the length? Look back a few pages on this thread. It's just about cutting the length of one or both ball studs so when you get it screwed onto the shock body the overall length of the shock is shorter.

Entropy - Here is great site, Mike Lufaso has about everything you need know for setup.

take care
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