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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!


BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)


Enneti (Xceed)

As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.


If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick

  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020

  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


Reflex Racing/RSD:


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Old 01-04-2005, 01:36 PM   #10126
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Originally posted by JohnB
I just got the Integy truer. It works great. From the searches I did on this site, everyone with the Integy seems please with them. I think Hudy is probably a little better, but at twice the cost. For personnal use the Integy is great.
Also, I got the adapter from RC4less.com. http://rc4less.safeshopper.com/5/210.htm?312 The one for 10th and 12th scale pan cars. Great adapter and fits all style of wheels good.
I didn't like the bit that comes with the Integy though. I put a Hudy Carbide bit in. Get a better looking finish.

take care
how did you mod it to fit the carbide cutter
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Old 01-04-2005, 01:44 PM   #10127
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which integy truer did you get the 180 dollar one or the 140 dollar one?
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Old 01-04-2005, 02:12 PM   #10128
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I got the manual one.
The Hudy bit is to thick. I ground it a little to fit in the Integy jaws. Also enlarged the opening in the jaws some. It doesn't take much. With the set screw in the jaws I can still use the stock bits if needed.

take care
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Old 01-04-2005, 02:34 PM   #10129
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Originally posted by primusblowsgoat
Well i raced my l4 for the first time last sunday, and i really liked it so im gonna go ahead and get a tire truer, which will just about complete everything i need.

my question is does it really matter which one i get. i was looking on ebay and see some integy and cobra and rd logistics one at decent prices but they look cheesey compared to the hudys and that automatic ofna one.

will it really make a differnece to me? i wont be truing a whole ton of tires, but i want to not have to depend on someone having a truer at the track and making time to true my tires.

so what do you guys think, can i get away with a cheesy used one off ebay?
here is what my take is:

the integy one works great on 1/12th tire, but tends to bog a little when cutting 1/10 tires.

the ofna works great, but the guage for tire diameter is off and not very accurate.

the hudy is the hudy. it is acurate, you can rely on the guage on the cutting head one you zero it and it work and works.1/12, 1/10, 1/8 tires. it will cut them all. But they are expensive.
yang lai

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Old 01-04-2005, 02:51 PM   #10130
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Like theisgroup said, Hudy is Hudy... it's the best out there. Tire truer is a tool, not an option part or upgrade. Spend the money on something nicer will last you longer. Practically all our 1/8th guys run Hudy exclusively, nothing else. We have club guys running Hudy truer (back then it was batched as Serpent truer) that are over 5 years old and still running strong and true, we have one that was dropped on the ground all the way from the hood of a big truck, and it's still running strong and true . Buying a truer is like buying a real nice top of the line radio. Spend the $ on a good one, take good care of it and it'll last you practically forever.

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Old 01-04-2005, 03:42 PM   #10131
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James thanks for the help. I sent bud a E-mail last night. Does the RPM delrin piece go in the BRP part ? Thanks
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Old 01-04-2005, 03:47 PM   #10132
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Originally posted by Chris Reilly
James thanks for the help. I sent bud a E-mail last night. Does the RPM delrin piece go in the BRP part ? Thanks
Yes, it replaces the black plastic ball that goes into the ball end on the stock parts.

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Old 01-04-2005, 09:43 PM   #10133
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Default POd/Shock

Need some help here.Just moved up from an old L3 to an L4.The L3 uses one of the old Delta shocks.The L4 uses the new VCS shock.Here's the problem.When I put the VCS on the chassis it causes the rear of the pod to angle down(droop?). On the older Delta shock car,the shock can be set so the pod stays flat(no droop?) If I adjust the length of the VCS shock so the pod stays flat,it doesn't extend enough to give me any angle to the pod.I can get forward motion(compress the shock),but nothing towards the rear.Is this normal? Should the pod always have some droop? Should it only be able to move forward but not rearward? In the most recent issue of rccar they have a picture of Masami's 12L/Yok.A hand is holding it in the air and the pod is flat.Any help is much appreciated. Hope I explained the problem clearly.Mario.
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Old 01-04-2005, 10:06 PM   #10134
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To change the subject a little, I am getting everything ready for my car when it gets here. Where do you guys get your 1/12th foam tires? Everywhere that I have looked seems so expensive, much more so than 1/10th.
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Old 01-04-2005, 10:11 PM   #10135
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Originally posted by Guo Chean
if i dun pull ou the red wire will it causing any damages to my electronic? thanks
info from a older post, i did way back:

this works with the LRP Q-comp & Q2 and Novak GT7 .

removing the red wire was something i only had to do on older ESC's

i have a old TEKIN 2 channel rec. i took the AMB transponder wires out of the plug, then routed/cut 2 1/8" channels into the plastic plug. soldered my rec-pack wires onto the top of the gold pins then reinserted into the plug. basically the rec pk and x-ponder are using the same plug. i add a Novak switch for the rec-pk. when i turn the rec-pk....... the ESC, servo, x-pond, & Rec turn on.

if you don't use a personal X-ponder just plug the rec pk into the rec. however if you don't add a on/off switch to your rec pk your car will turn on.

i did not pull the red wire from the esc to the rec. the switch for my LRP & GT7 does not get used (AND SHOULD NOT) so i removed it completely. i mount mine in a 3-2 hump config on the t-bar like the Trinity drivers used to on the SwitchBlade cars. the CRC and SM non-t-bar racers run then usually in a 5-cell flat stick config behind the servo

4-cells power the motor

5-cell micro pk powers the 4 (ESC, SERVO, REC & X-POND) items, also steering is quicker due to increased voltage

weight i don't believe is much of a issue. where i race AMB shop x-ponders (huge for a 12th scale) are used at every race. My personal x-ponder and the 5-cell pk probably weight the same +or - a few grams

i charge mine after 2 heats on a Noval Mil Pro charger at 1 amp and have had no problems on a pack that is over 1 year old. the car was raced twice a week for 6+ monsth to top that

NOTE: on some ESCs, if you remove the red wire going into the REC from the ESC....then your 4-cell pk powers the ESC and Motor. you have to turn on your REC PK first then the ESC. reverse when shutting down.

Not all ESCs are the same when it comes down to receiving power from the REC when the red wire is left in. in this config you may end up draining some of your REC=PK into the motor..........not sure
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Old 01-05-2005, 05:47 AM   #10136
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Lotus1 _ Cut down the length of the ball cups on the shock to shorten it. I usually set them so the pod droops to just a little past level. That way when you set the ride height to level, you have some droop

SteveB - I usually get my tires from kthobbies.com, speedtechrc.com. I know they are both great and reasonable. I just found out about Allspeed, who advetises on RC Tech.

take care
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Old 01-05-2005, 08:26 AM   #10137
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Default JR z3550 servo

I'm looking for a non-working 3550 servo for a part. I've lost a gear pin and I can't get it from JR.
Thanks for the help.
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Old 01-05-2005, 11:08 AM   #10138
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Originally posted by SteveB
To change the subject a little, I am getting everything ready for my car when it gets here. Where do you guys get your 1/12th foam tires? Everywhere that I have looked seems so expensive, much more so than 1/10th.
Try KT Hobbies. Kraig has the best prices.

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Old 01-05-2005, 11:24 AM   #10139
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Default JohnB

Thanks for the reply.Just to be sure.I cut the ball cups so the pod droops a bit (rear lower than the front of it).When set at ride height with batts and motor it should settle flat.? This should then insure some rearward motion capability of the pod.Yes? Not having the car in front of me at the moment,I seem to remember trying this and the pod only having a small amount of rearward capability before the shock reaches maximum extension,is/does that seem correct?Thanks again,Mario.
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Old 01-05-2005, 11:35 AM   #10140
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Yes, that sounds right. When I mean a little, right now I have maybe 1/16"-3/32" with the pod sitting level. Not very much. You can use it as a tuning tool. More droop on a bumpy track, less on smooth.
I guess you run the risk of the shock clip coming off if you take hard hit, but I'd rather have that pressure on the shock and not on the T-bar. Or just use a Silva shock and not worry about

take care
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