R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

    Hide Wikipost
Old 10-28-2016, 12:43 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: 1/12 forum
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: fenton06
This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

Print Wikipost

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 12-29-2004, 03:27 PM   #10051
Tech Master
 
rcgen's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Jacksonville, FL
Posts: 1,069
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by Ginsu
No ones running a crc 3.2 Carpet knife?
I do but it my first 1/12 car. I'll be running mostly on an asphault track and a couple of parking lot track. I wanted to do something different for the points series that is held in Florida. I just finished putting it together. Cant wait to test is out...
rcgen is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-29-2004, 03:30 PM   #10052
Tech Elite
 
rdub202's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: TeamAcademy/MRC, MI
Posts: 2,359
Trader Rating: 19 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to rdub202
Default

hey revz, i pmmed you about my L3. ur inbox is full-
__________________
_|Team Academy GV2 Pro_|_Team Academy SBV2 Pro|_--->Losi xxxbK2 (FOR SALE)
_|Factory Tracks Midwest Series_|_www.factorytracks.com|_
_|Team Upgrade-RCid_|_www.upgrade-rc.com|_
_|MRC/Team Academy_|_www.modelrec.com|_
rdub202 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-29-2004, 03:35 PM   #10053
Tech Fanatic
 
revzalot's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Nor * Cal
Posts: 959
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

PM box is cleared. Go ahead pm again.
__________________
www.revzalotmotorsports.com
revzalot is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-29-2004, 06:28 PM   #10054
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 472
Default cefx

Hi everyone, i notice this 1/12 forum don't mention the cefx what do you think of this car.
Ramyuras is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-29-2004, 08:25 PM   #10055
Tech Fanatic
 
revzalot's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Nor * Cal
Posts: 959
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default Re: cefx

Quote:
Originally posted by Ramyuras
Hi everyone, i notice this 1/12 forum don't mention the cefx what do you think of this car.
The CEFX was my first choice and the best bang for the buck since it contains tires and body already. It's currently sold out so I opted for a 12L4 which was my second choice.
__________________
www.revzalotmotorsports.com
revzalot is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-29-2004, 09:19 PM   #10056
Tech Adept
 
kruston's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Calgary
Posts: 136
Default traction rolling

I need a little insight into traction rolling tips. I currently run 12L3 with L4 rear axle. the club i race at just purchaced ozite carpet and i've had problems with traction rolling ever since. the car has a thick t-plate, double pink fronts, pink rears, 3mm ride height the car is run 4 cell mod. any help would greatly be appreciated.
Thanks Kurt
kruston is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-30-2004, 12:10 AM   #10057
Moderator
 
Pro ten Holland's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Druten/Holland (Europe)
Posts: 1,658
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default Traction rolling

Go for one step harder tires: grey rear and purple fronts.
Use low ride hight, between 3.0 and 3.5mm all around.
If that doesn't solve it, use thicker oil in the damper plates and/or stiffer front springs.
You can also look for a body with less downforce.
__________________
http://www.rc-lemans.de/
Pro ten Holland is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-30-2004, 06:22 AM   #10058
PMK
Tech Apprentice
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 81
Default 12L4

What's the opinion on the 12L4 front brace. The carbon fibre support that ties each upper pivot pin to the other pin. I checked my chassis plate prior to tightening the front suspension mount screws, the four securing the front end to the plate. The chassis plate was flat, after tightening the screws it appears the combination of the carbon brace securing the screws has caused the front end of the chassis plate to slightly bow. I'm sure this is caused due to manufacturing tolerances.

Any thoughts or simple cures?

PK
PMK is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-30-2004, 06:37 AM   #10059
Tech Addict
 
JohnB's Avatar
R/C Tech Charter Subscriber
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Oregon City, Or
Posts: 674
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default Re: 12L4

Quote:
Originally posted by PMK

Any thoughts or simple cures?

PK
Yes, don't the brace. You can work the brace a little to get it so it doesn't pull or push but there's still a chance it'll tweak it.
Sounds like it could be your lower A-arms. Maybe Wayne will post how to fix that. Not all the lower arms are identical. I think they are pretty good for the most part, but a molded part is a part, some are off just a little.

take care
john
JohnB is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-30-2004, 06:55 AM   #10060
sg1
Tech Elite
 
sg1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Ohio
Posts: 2,787
Trader Rating: 79 (100%+)
Default

PMK...
Only option is to make a brace to fit the dimension across the pins.. I haven't seen a brace that didn't tweek the front of the chassis.. You're right about tolerances... And the parts do "move" when molded, so you have alot of difference between one arm and another... I don't run a brace because of that problem... One other solution may be go back to the original idea Assoc. had and use the tube that connects the uprights.. That way you can shim it in or out to get the proper length.. easier then making new braces all the time!!! Hope this helps....
Wayne
__________________
**Team Scream**Parma/PSE**TQ Wire**Roche**Pemberton**BSR**Graupner/GM**SXT**
sg1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-30-2004, 07:25 AM   #10061
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Northern Illinois
Posts: 374
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by sg1
One other solution may be go back to the original idea Assoc. had and use the tube that connects the uprights.. That way you can shim it in or out to get the proper length.. easier then making new braces all the time!!! Hope this helps....
Wayne
Are there specific manufacturers that produce/sell this type of front brace? It's seems I have seen one used on the Atsushi Hara cars (replica and "real" ones) that has two separate tubes and then some sort of o-ring in between the tubes to dampen or allow for some tiny bit of flex in the front end.

I would definitely like to stiffen-up the front end, but have seen the "tweak" that is described as well.

Thanks in advance,
Joe
out_to_lunch is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-30-2004, 07:37 AM   #10062
sg1
Tech Elite
 
sg1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Ohio
Posts: 2,787
Trader Rating: 79 (100%+)
Default

Joe...
I haven't seen anyone who manufactures anything to put between the uprights on a 1/12 car that is adjustable... but I'm sure there is something out there... I know that with some of the 1/10 pan cars for oval a manufacture had 2 tubes with a turnbuckle between them for adjustability. Assoc. sells the old aluminum tube brace still... or you can do what I did... I just found a few 3/16" dia. standoffs/dampening posts that were threaded on both ends and screwed them togather with set screw and added a few .01" motor shims to get it the overall length so the chassis doesn't tweek.
Wayne
__________________
**Team Scream**Parma/PSE**TQ Wire**Roche**Pemberton**BSR**Graupner/GM**SXT**
sg1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-30-2004, 11:26 AM   #10063
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 814
Default Re: traction rolling

Quote:
Originally posted by kruston
I need a little insight into traction rolling tips. I currently run 12L3 with L4 rear axle. the club i race at just purchaced ozite carpet and i've had problems with traction rolling ever since. the car has a thick t-plate, double pink fronts, pink rears, 3mm ride height the car is run 4 cell mod. any help would greatly be appreciated.
Thanks Kurt
Also try super gluing the outside side wall of the front tires. Glue from the outside edge of the rim to the outside edge of the sidewall on the tire. Don't go over the edge of the tire.

You can also try adding a little more caster and or camber.
Crashby is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-30-2004, 03:46 PM   #10064
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Northern Illinois
Posts: 374
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by sg1
Joe...
I haven't seen anyone who manufactures anything to put between the uprights on a 1/12 car that is adjustable... but I'm sure there is something out there... I know that with some of the 1/10 pan cars for oval a manufacture had 2 tubes with a turnbuckle between them for adjustability. Assoc. sells the old aluminum tube brace still... or you can do what I did... I just found a few 3/16" dia. standoffs/dampening posts that were threaded on both ends and screwed them togather with set screw and added a few .01" motor shims to get it the overall length so the chassis doesn't tweek.
Wayne
Wayne-

Thanks for the input. I am doing some further digging/research. I would like to find that photo with the o-ring crossbar set-up. It looked pretty slick. As soon as I do, I will post it. I thought I had it saved, but I was incorrect.

Have a Happy New Year!!!

Joe
out_to_lunch is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-30-2004, 04:52 PM   #10065
Tech Master
 
JamesArluck's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 1,232
Trader Rating: 52 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to JamesArluck
Default Front end Brace

Check out the one Raceway Manufacturing sells. www.racewaymfg.com under "braces" or the direct link http://www.racewaymfg.com/upperandlower.htm

-James
JamesArluck is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
New to the forum mig rod Electric Off-Road 1 01-05-2008 05:23 PM
hi i need help and im new to the forum racer4 Rookie Zone 4 01-21-2007 02:37 PM
Why is this forum listed under the On Road Forum? sport10 Onroad Nitro Engine Zone 0 01-11-2007 08:06 AM
Forum Changes... futureal Wisconsin & Illinois Racing 3 10-28-2002 09:26 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 09:05 PM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net

SEO by vBSEO 3.5.0