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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 12-28-2004, 11:41 PM   #10036
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Speaking of the 12L4, I want to swap my spur for a 48pitch as it is nigh on impossible to find 64pitch pinions here and all my other cars run 48 pitch now, it only makes sense.

What size spur would be a good starting point with a 12turn motor?

I am guessing Kimbrough make a suitable spur; anyone have the part number on hand?
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Old 12-29-2004, 12:19 AM   #10037
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Start with an 78 tooth spur. 75 or 72 are also options.
Any larger and you'll be in trouble with tire size and motor space.
Partnumbers 78T: #145, 75T: #144, 72T: #143.
http://www.kimbrough-products.com/
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Old 12-29-2004, 06:33 AM   #10038
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Default Re: 12L4

Quote:
Originally posted by PMK
Granted the 12L4 has won and seems to be the platform to build from, but what is the best method to get the pod/axle/ride height adjusters freed up.

Explaining further, how are you guys reworking the oval ride height adjusters to slip fit into the pod and getting the bearings looser in the ride height adjuster. There has to be an easier way to get the axle to unbind and slip in with no force.

PK
Use a reamer, 3/8 inch diameter, to enlarge the position for the bearing. It will take a little bit of effort, but eventually the hole will be large enough to accept the bearing with very little force.

Another thing that may be a problem is the side plates on the motor pod. If either is bent, the ride height adjusters will not be held square to each other. That will bind the axle in the bearings, too.
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Old 12-29-2004, 06:58 AM   #10039
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Default Getting back in da hobby

Hi all!
I am just getting back into 12th scale racing again, and whoa, seems like there's a lot of improvements in all areas. Ah well. I've got my budget to stick too. Currently running a Kawada M300RSR (yes it's old!) with a 17 turn mod Tamiya F1 motor and 3k batteries, 6 cells, 8 min heats. Amazingly, my batteries, after going through the charger's "format" function seem to be performing just as they were a year ago!

However, I have forgotten how to gear my car . Can you guys suggest a suitable rollout for a 17 turn? The track in question has a straight about 70 feet long. Infield is rather tight and technical. No chance to bring my car down for lap time testing; sunday's the race day itself and I'm outta a year of practice :-)

Thanks in advance mates!

Alvin

Last edited by Alvin; 12-29-2004 at 07:18 AM.
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Old 12-29-2004, 07:30 AM   #10040
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Start somewhere in the direction of 40mm/rev.
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Old 12-29-2004, 09:19 AM   #10041
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PMK i saw mike lufaso 's car.. the piece he had on there was from yokomo ... i guess it made it almost tweak free.. and made the T-plate real stiffer. only worked on asphalt tracks though... he tried it indoor at our local track but didnt like it.. actually it was his Worlds car i was looking at.. but for indoor he actually liked his stock car so much better in stock form!!
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Old 12-29-2004, 11:10 AM   #10042
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Default Lufaso 12L4

Thanks RC freak. I assumed it was to allow the car to remain more consistant. In time I'm going to look into it since I plan to run outdoor only for now. If you see Mike let him know that at least one person has read his efforts he posted and appreciates it. (PN's would be cool too)

Also FWIW that guy that had issues with his 12L4 front axles needing to be sanded to allow the bearings to fit, another one here, one side is fine the opposite axle is larger than the bearing. Measured it's .0005 to large.

As for the rear axle, I did search a while after posting and there were a couple recomendations to ream @3/8". Prior to posting, I did try a unibit on one of the off sizes, it was better but not what I wanted. It will get done.

Thanks

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Old 12-29-2004, 11:16 AM   #10043
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Sorry guys but what are the digital servos for 12th again?
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Old 12-29-2004, 12:07 PM   #10044
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#!12L3-Carpet Knife-Jr servo-misc parts!#
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Old 12-29-2004, 12:21 PM   #10045
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No ones running a crc 3.2 Carpet knife?
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Old 12-29-2004, 12:44 PM   #10046
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Quote:
Originally posted by Ginsu
No ones running a crc 3.2 Carpet knife?
I do
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Old 12-29-2004, 01:19 PM   #10047
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YOK MS1 body.

most like it on the asphalt track because it gives more rear downforce. when we had a carpet track the Yok drivers ran the Parma/Trinity Speed 8/9 bodies.

Yokomo also has a new 12th body called MS2. it has the high downforce tail of the MS1 but everything else is changed. it is curved in between the front and rear wheels.....really hard to describe the rest
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Old 12-29-2004, 01:23 PM   #10048
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Default Protoform 12

The new Protoform 12 body has an adjustable Gurney strip like those 1/8 scale on roaders.
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Old 12-29-2004, 02:01 PM   #10049
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truing tires....

new to 12th scale, anybody know who carries the arbors for 12th scale tires @ decent prices?????????????
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Old 12-29-2004, 03:04 PM   #10050
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Integy has some 12th scale arbors but they're sold out.
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