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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 12-28-2004, 01:57 PM   #10021
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i like trc's alot...but im thinging about to try the bsr tires and then the yok ones, masiami style


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Old 12-28-2004, 02:37 PM   #10022
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Quote:
Originally posted by John_S
do you guys have any experience with the yokomo ms1 body? As i have just orderd one
When I bought my YRX-12 a couple years back, it came with one. One problem was it'll only fit AE 10 degree front end only. If you run the flat front end, it won't fit. Not sure if it'll fit the new 5 degree front end now.

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Old 12-28-2004, 04:42 PM   #10023
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What surface do you run your YRX-12 on?

Quote:
Originally posted by litespeed-dom
When I bought my YRX-12 a couple years back, it came with one. One problem was it'll only fit AE 10 degree front end only. If you run the flat front end, it won't fit. Not sure if it'll fit the new 5 degree front end now.

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Old 12-28-2004, 04:47 PM   #10024
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Quote:
Originally posted by odpurple
I'll second that! And so far I haven't found any crooked ones; I sure can't say that for Jacos or CRCs.
The reason is crc is made by jaco....
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Old 12-28-2004, 05:28 PM   #10025
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Quote:
Originally posted by G Mills
What surface do you run your YRX-12 on?
Well, I tried to make it to run on carpet 2 seasons ago, got it to run ok, but not great like the new breed of carpet-specific 1/12th cars now.
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Old 12-28-2004, 05:43 PM   #10026
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Quote:
Originally posted by JohnB
Yes, that was just a small example. Not often i have that many new sets to compare. I've had a couple sets of CRC's. I love the looks of them, but the rears seem to pull away from the rim worse than Jaco.

take care
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haha u noticed that too! the crc rears is nothing but a round platic thinggy with three holes. now thats beauty!
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Old 12-28-2004, 05:55 PM   #10027
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i've been into racing touring cars on carpet 4 a little ova 2 years now and i'm seriously considering buying a 1/12 scale. The car i think i'll probably buy is the L4, what do u guys think about it
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Old 12-28-2004, 06:16 PM   #10028
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Default Tire size

I am just starting out in 1/12 after racing 1/10 oval. I wanted to try something different. From most of the reading here it looks like 1/12 is picking up. My question is what is a good starting size for the tires. I will be racing on mostly an asphault track and some a couple of parking lots tracks. Obtw and the average ride height. I got a CRC 3.2 if that helps.
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Old 12-28-2004, 06:20 PM   #10029
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Quote:
Originally posted by HKlosi
i've been into racing touring cars on carpet 4 a little ova 2 years now and i'm seriously considering buying a 1/12 scale. The car i think i'll probably buy is the L4, what do u guys think about it


*beware* once u go 12th scale, you'll never go back to tc.
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Old 12-28-2004, 06:34 PM   #10030
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1/12th seems to be coming back in a fairly large way, I know at the 2 local tracks I run at many people have stopped running TC and started running 1/12th mainly for the competition, and the fun of running those lil missles. But also the cost - they are WAY cheaper than any TC to run. chance of breaking stuff is way less.

But you do go through more bearings in a 1/12th it seems.
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Old 12-28-2004, 07:37 PM   #10031
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So, if i was to run trc, I would need flanged bearings. Does the flange go towards to car or towards the wheel?
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Old 12-28-2004, 07:41 PM   #10032
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HKlosi - the RC12L4 is a great 12th scale. Easy to set up and since its an associated car the parts support should be good almost anywhere. Form my evperience its one of the best cars I have driven.

nmt6789 - The flanged bearings, one goes facing the car on the inside and if you use e-clips for your wheels the second bearing's flange will be facing outwards.
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Old 12-28-2004, 07:54 PM   #10033
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Default CRC and 1/2th scale tires

Anyone running a CRC 3.2r? Just wondering what you think of it? I am running one in stock at the birds. I was also curious how long I should expect a set of foam tires to last? Not sure how many I will need for this race..........thanks
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Old 12-28-2004, 08:08 PM   #10034
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Default 12L4

Granted the 12L4 has won and seems to be the platform to build from, but what is the best method to get the pod/axle/ride height adjusters freed up.

Explaining further, how are you guys reworking the oval ride height adjusters to slip fit into the pod and getting the bearings looser in the ride height adjuster. There has to be an easier way to get the axle to unbind and slip in with no force.

Curious also about the availability of pod side plates that don't use ride height adjusters but are bored to directly accept the bearings (similar to an old Delta car).

While I'm asking, I've seen photos of a couple of 12l's that no longer run a forward pivot ball on the T plate. It's been replaced by an anodized ???????, any ideas. The easiest photo to see it in is the Lufaso web page mentioned here a few days ago.

Thanks

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Old 12-28-2004, 11:16 PM   #10035
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Paul ! Hector here take a dremel and take out material until smooth or order the ones from kimbro remember the spur gear guy he's still around. He makes them with alterd length aswell to make wheel base longer.

I have both pending on track conditions!
just shave and cut with dremel. Just costs time, but that is part of a hobby!
anything else!
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